Modern Ilocandia at iRepublik
MANILA, Philippines – Did you know that there is more than one way to enjoy bagnet, that hard-to-resist Ilocano version of the deep-fried pork dish also known as lechon kawali or chicharon?
At iRepublik (Ilocandia Grill), the newly opened specialty restaurant on Tomas Morato St. in Quezon City, you’ll find several bagnet dishes listed on the menu. We tried the bagnet adobo threesome, which is basically bagnet presented three ways — a slab of deep-fried pork, as adobo flakes, and in adobo rice.
“Bagnet has many uses,” chef Jerome Ragojos remarked. “We have it as sahog in our pinakbet con bagnet. We also have our version of bagnet con binagoongang baboy.” There is alt and pepper bagnet, as well as the classic bagnet. Perhaps it’s the meticulous way it is prepared that makes it special.
“It’s a long process that takes several days of preparation,” chef Nel Badere noted. First, the meat is boiled. Then it is air-dried, after which it is deep-fried. And then it is kept in the freezer. “This step helps prolong its shelf life,” chef Nel explained. Then, it is deep-fried again, until the skin blisters. The crispier the skin, the better.
Chef Nel and chef Jerome, both Ilocanos, developed the menu for iRepublik (Ilocandia Grill). Chef Nel, a graduate of A.I.C.A. (Asian Institute of Culinary Arts) in Pasig, hails from Bengued, Abra, while Chef Jerome, a graduate of CCA (Center for Culinary Arts) in Katipunan, hails from Aparri, Cagayan.
“Modern Ilocandia” is what Chef Jerome calls it. “We got authentic dishes from the Ilocos region and gave them our own interpretation,” Chef Jerome explained. “The cooking is traditional, but the plating is modern. We also enhanced the taste.” Take for example the traditional dish, imbaligtad — seared beef tenderloin, beef shank, snow peas and potatoes in creamy liver sauce. “It is the liver sauce that makes it different,” Chef Nel said.
Another dish made tastier by the addition of liver sauce is Igado, a must-try. “Our own version is made with pork liver, pork lomo, string beans and squash blossoms in rich grilled chicken liver sauce,” chef Jerome explained. Their version of pinapaitan makes use not only of innards (laman loob) but also tender beef.
Under the heading Northern tapas are appetizing dishes such as spicy seafood tupeg, callos Ilocandia, empanaditas con chorizo, tapang usa, bangus kilaw, crispy shrimps and Ilocandia lamb albondigas. Arroz Ilocandia, with servings good for two to three persons, include paella marinara de San Fabian, bringhe in bamboo, longaniza fried rice, all-meat claypot rice and Baguio market fried rice.
The dishes at iRepublik are not limited to traditional dishes from the Ilocos region. “For Raymund, anything north of the Petron station in the North Luzon Expressway, can be included,” joked Joel Sarmenta, group marketing manager. Raymund, of course, is Raymund Magdaluyo, the genius behind the Red Crab Group, which includes other popular restaurants such as Fish out of Water, BluFish and The Flying Pig, Heaven and Eggs, and Clawdaddy. We also find on the menu dishes under the headings Bauang oysters and shellfish, Baguio salads, and Pagudpud grilled surfers.
The boodle selection, a feast for five to six persons, falls under the headings Dagupan, Benguet, Vigan and Ninoy, which includes sisig Kapampangan, tocino tori tori, grilled bangus belly, grilled eggplant, grilled okra, clams in garlic broth and garlic rice.
The desserts are familiar and yet somehow different, such as turon de calamay à la mode, with calamay replacing the traditional saba, and raised a notch with the addition of ice cream. Halo halo John Hay has the usual halo halo ingredients plus peanut brittle and ube. Tupig supreme is made with rice flour with gata and generous buko strips, wrapped in banana leaf and then grilled.
The Sagada shakes and Coolers include not just the usual, but also Sstrawberry iced tea shake, chico shake, lychee basil and watermelon shake.
iRepublik is open Monday to Sunday, 7 a.m. to 2 a.m. “We have a breakfast menu that includes Pinoy pancakes as well as ube cream and pinipig smothered pancakes,” says group head Lily Hao Chan. “We also have the iRepublic breakfast boodle good for three to four persons and five to six persons, which include US Angus tapa, grilled Pampanga tocino, Vigan longganiza, fried Bonoan bangus belly, four eggs done the way you like it, scrambled or sunny side up, garlic rice, grilled tomatoes and atchara.”
Sarmenta tells the story of an elderly couple who came for lunch one time. They wanted to check out the Ilocano cuisine since they both originally came from Ilocos. A younger group came all the way from Makati after reading about iRepublik on Facebook and some blogs. “It fills a void,” Sarmenta observed, “since there is no other restaurant right now that offers a wide selection of authentic cuisine from the region.” The cuisine at iRepublik may very well be described as provincial comfort food that’s been citified.
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iRepublik is located at the ground floor of CKB Centre, Scout Rallos St. cor. Tomas Morato Ave., Quezon City. Call 376-2674 and 376-4503.
