Go fish at Fish & Co.
January 26, 2006 | 12:00am
Tobiko is the roe of flying fish. It is characterized by a red-orange color, mild flavor, and slight crunch. More familiar with tobiko as a component in Japanese or Hawaiian cuisine, I was curious about Fish & Co.’s seafood fondue that was served with a tobiko cream sauce.
Fish & Co. is, of course, the newest addition to the Bistro Group of Restaurants, the company that also operates Outback, Italianni’s and TGI Friday’s. Currently with branches at Greenbelt 3 and Shangri-La Mall, Fish & Co. serves seafood in a pan – a practice inspired by Mediterranean fishermen who pan-cook newly caught seafood to ensure freshness. The manner of cooking at Fish & Co. has oftentimes been described as simple and straightforward; and olive oil, and assorted herbs and spices enhance the natural flavors of fish and seafood. With no thick sauces to mask flavors, the freshness of the seafood served at the restaurant is unmistakable
Without need for enhancement, the mussels, scallops, prawns and fish cubes of the seafood fondue that were meant for dipping were already flavorful. However, plunging these in the orange-flecked tobiko sauce added another flavorful twist. Was that kani or crabmeat added to thicken and enrich the cream sauce even more? Other than dipping the skewered seafood into the tobiko sauce, one could easily be tempted to go against the principle of fondue cooking and eat spoonfuls of the tasty sauce, as if it were a thick soup instead.
But then, we tried other things before the seafood fondue. Starting with the shrimp and cold pasta salad was an excellent decision. Shrimp, chilled spaghetti and salad greens were tossed in a mayonnaise-based dressing made unique by a dash of sesame oil. Flecks of blackened sesame seeds added visual appeal to the dish, and the crisp vegetables were immensely refreshing. The salad was tasty but light on the belly, allowing room to explore the other dishes on the menu. However, for those who indulged in the gastronomic excesses of the past holidays, the salad alone is already a delectable and guilt-free choice.
Seventy percent of the food that is served at Fish & Co. are fish dishes. The "Co." in the restaurant’s name pertains to other seafood such as prawns, squid, etc. Oysters fall under this latter category. One oyster connoisseur once said that although oysters in the Philippines are generally smaller than the imported varieties, these are excellent because of the intensity of their flavor. However, freshness is always essential. To test the freshness of a shucked oyster, one should initially desist from adding lemon, salt or chili sauce, as these "cook" the oyster. The flesh should be firm, clean tasting, and almost imperceptibly sweet, with its juices faintly smelling of the sea. The fresh oysters served on a bed of ice at Fish & Co. easily fulfilled those requirements. For the faint-hearted and those who unfortunately have weak stomachs, a rich alternative to raw oysters is available: oysters baked with cheese, spinach, bacon, shallots, and white wine.
Those who have tried Fish & Co.’s fish and chips may be tempted to have that again and again. There are two variants. The Best Fish & Chips in Town is fried fish topped with lemon butter sauce, while the New York Fish & Chips has a Parmesan cheese stuffing. Except for the sauce, the fish is essentially the same. Both dishes feature tender fillets of dory coated by a breading mixture. The crust brought to mind the childhood rhyme about "The Pobble With No Toes," which had the lines: "And she made him a feast at his earnest wish/ Of eggs and buttercups fried with fish." The perfect golden crust was buttercup-pretty, indeed.
Incidentally, dory is a general term for several species of fish with spiny dorsal fin rays with long, trailing filaments. Their large mouths enable them to capture small fish and invertebrates that comprise their diets. The firm, flaky white flesh of the fish appeals to many because of its delicate and mild flavor. It is not difficult to understand why the fish and chip entrees are labeled "get hooked," indicating that they are restaurant favorites.
Other get-hooked fish dishes are the salmon, served either grilled or Cajun-style, and a baked salmon with citrus herb crust served with creamy mushroom sauce. Of course, the seafood platters consisting of seasonal fish, calamari, tiger prawns, and mussels are also restaurant favorites. These servings are meant for sharing by two to four people.
One item on the menu that was unavailable on the day of our visit was called Fish Collar and was described as "two pieces of chunky and juicy fish collar, fried and served with mango vinaigrette." This was intriguing. Obviously, fish have no necks, so why was the portion called a collar? Perhaps, this was the section of the fish that came directly after the bony head. If so, small wonder that the item has a get-hooked label as well. Aside from a fleshy dorsal section, this portion includes the anterior section of the fish belly with its tasty fat, too.
By then, we had eaten our fill of fish and seafood and barely had space for a few mouthfuls of the equally delicious desserts: Chocolate Eruption (chocolate cake studded with nuts, chocolate chips, and turtle cheesecake cubes) and strawberry daiquiri cheesecake.
As is usual with people who love to eat, we were extremely pleased with our excellent choices on Fish & Co.’s menu; couldn’t eat yet another mouthful; but were planning our next foray to discover and sample the rest of Fish & Co.’s menu. We resolved to try the spicier dishes next time. Peri-peri prawns, rendered spicy by red peri-peri (also peli-peli) chilies seemed promising, as did the mocktails and cocktails with amusing names: Insomnia (caffeine with the works), Fishy Maria (a blue potion with the punches), Passionade (passion fruit with vodka), and others.
The interesting items listed in Fish & Co.’s menu are effective bait for foodies, and we’ll certainly visit the restaurant again.
Fish & Co. restaurants are located at the Fun Dining Area, third floor, Greenbelt 3, Makati City, with tel. nos. 729-7432 and 729-7431, and second floor, Streetscape, Shangri-La Plaza Mall, with tel. nos. 910-2142 and 910-2140.
Fish & Co. is, of course, the newest addition to the Bistro Group of Restaurants, the company that also operates Outback, Italianni’s and TGI Friday’s. Currently with branches at Greenbelt 3 and Shangri-La Mall, Fish & Co. serves seafood in a pan – a practice inspired by Mediterranean fishermen who pan-cook newly caught seafood to ensure freshness. The manner of cooking at Fish & Co. has oftentimes been described as simple and straightforward; and olive oil, and assorted herbs and spices enhance the natural flavors of fish and seafood. With no thick sauces to mask flavors, the freshness of the seafood served at the restaurant is unmistakable
Without need for enhancement, the mussels, scallops, prawns and fish cubes of the seafood fondue that were meant for dipping were already flavorful. However, plunging these in the orange-flecked tobiko sauce added another flavorful twist. Was that kani or crabmeat added to thicken and enrich the cream sauce even more? Other than dipping the skewered seafood into the tobiko sauce, one could easily be tempted to go against the principle of fondue cooking and eat spoonfuls of the tasty sauce, as if it were a thick soup instead.
But then, we tried other things before the seafood fondue. Starting with the shrimp and cold pasta salad was an excellent decision. Shrimp, chilled spaghetti and salad greens were tossed in a mayonnaise-based dressing made unique by a dash of sesame oil. Flecks of blackened sesame seeds added visual appeal to the dish, and the crisp vegetables were immensely refreshing. The salad was tasty but light on the belly, allowing room to explore the other dishes on the menu. However, for those who indulged in the gastronomic excesses of the past holidays, the salad alone is already a delectable and guilt-free choice.
Seventy percent of the food that is served at Fish & Co. are fish dishes. The "Co." in the restaurant’s name pertains to other seafood such as prawns, squid, etc. Oysters fall under this latter category. One oyster connoisseur once said that although oysters in the Philippines are generally smaller than the imported varieties, these are excellent because of the intensity of their flavor. However, freshness is always essential. To test the freshness of a shucked oyster, one should initially desist from adding lemon, salt or chili sauce, as these "cook" the oyster. The flesh should be firm, clean tasting, and almost imperceptibly sweet, with its juices faintly smelling of the sea. The fresh oysters served on a bed of ice at Fish & Co. easily fulfilled those requirements. For the faint-hearted and those who unfortunately have weak stomachs, a rich alternative to raw oysters is available: oysters baked with cheese, spinach, bacon, shallots, and white wine.
Those who have tried Fish & Co.’s fish and chips may be tempted to have that again and again. There are two variants. The Best Fish & Chips in Town is fried fish topped with lemon butter sauce, while the New York Fish & Chips has a Parmesan cheese stuffing. Except for the sauce, the fish is essentially the same. Both dishes feature tender fillets of dory coated by a breading mixture. The crust brought to mind the childhood rhyme about "The Pobble With No Toes," which had the lines: "And she made him a feast at his earnest wish/ Of eggs and buttercups fried with fish." The perfect golden crust was buttercup-pretty, indeed.
Incidentally, dory is a general term for several species of fish with spiny dorsal fin rays with long, trailing filaments. Their large mouths enable them to capture small fish and invertebrates that comprise their diets. The firm, flaky white flesh of the fish appeals to many because of its delicate and mild flavor. It is not difficult to understand why the fish and chip entrees are labeled "get hooked," indicating that they are restaurant favorites.
Other get-hooked fish dishes are the salmon, served either grilled or Cajun-style, and a baked salmon with citrus herb crust served with creamy mushroom sauce. Of course, the seafood platters consisting of seasonal fish, calamari, tiger prawns, and mussels are also restaurant favorites. These servings are meant for sharing by two to four people.
One item on the menu that was unavailable on the day of our visit was called Fish Collar and was described as "two pieces of chunky and juicy fish collar, fried and served with mango vinaigrette." This was intriguing. Obviously, fish have no necks, so why was the portion called a collar? Perhaps, this was the section of the fish that came directly after the bony head. If so, small wonder that the item has a get-hooked label as well. Aside from a fleshy dorsal section, this portion includes the anterior section of the fish belly with its tasty fat, too.
By then, we had eaten our fill of fish and seafood and barely had space for a few mouthfuls of the equally delicious desserts: Chocolate Eruption (chocolate cake studded with nuts, chocolate chips, and turtle cheesecake cubes) and strawberry daiquiri cheesecake.
As is usual with people who love to eat, we were extremely pleased with our excellent choices on Fish & Co.’s menu; couldn’t eat yet another mouthful; but were planning our next foray to discover and sample the rest of Fish & Co.’s menu. We resolved to try the spicier dishes next time. Peri-peri prawns, rendered spicy by red peri-peri (also peli-peli) chilies seemed promising, as did the mocktails and cocktails with amusing names: Insomnia (caffeine with the works), Fishy Maria (a blue potion with the punches), Passionade (passion fruit with vodka), and others.
The interesting items listed in Fish & Co.’s menu are effective bait for foodies, and we’ll certainly visit the restaurant again.
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