A slice of Americana at Burgoo

When you get a taste of one of Burgoo’s signature dishes, whether it’s the baby back ribs, a well-seasoned slab of pork ribs marinated overnight then slow-roasted to a tender moist finish, or Burgoo stew, a much-venerated stew with a history that goes as far back as the 16th century – or so they say – you not only get a taste of wholesome, hearty fare, but you get a bite out of something distinctly American. The inspirations for the large menu that covers everything from soups and salads to burgers and steaks to pastas and stone-baked pizzas are a combination of Tex-Mex, Italian, New York, and the South West, which means that the ribs should be falling-off-the-bones tender, flavorful and spicy like its southern Tex-Mex roots while the pasta dishes ought to be rich and have depth just like their Italian parents.

Meat lovers can begin their sojourn into the cosmopolitan parts of the US with their New York strip steak, an eight-ounce USDA choice strip steak, aged and marbled so that the flavors are distinct, instead of the bland kind served at cheap joints. For the elitist, the filet mignon comes hand-trimmed and grilled-to-order then is wrapped in crisp bacon. Food for the upper crust at Burgoo, of course, doesn’t come at very snobbish prices – the strip steak retails for P395, as does the filet.

Move on to the Italian region – one imagines Brooklyn restaurants with third-generation Italian cooks behind the counter – and sample the Grilled Chicken Americana, a hearty dish of herb-seasoned grilled chicken breast on a bed of angel hair pasta drenched in alla oglio pomodoro sauce (which is essentially a tomato-based sauce). For that distinctly all-American dish, there is the cheesy beef baked macaroni, a twist on the tried-and-tested version perfected by working mothers in the suburbs during the ’70s, made of oven-baked penne with a beef and alfredo sauce topped with mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses.

The Tex-Mex flavors come to the fore with dishes like their quesadilla, a straightforward affair of baked tortilla wraps filled with a choice of grilled chicken, pepperoni or Italian sausage with cheddar and mozzarella, and chimichanga, a fried tortilla filled with meat, lettuce, green onions and cheddar cheese topped with salsa and sour cream.

There is, of course, a homage to places like Chinatown with Burgoo’s oriental chicken salad, a mixture of greens, red cabbage, water chestnuts, crab meat, mandarin oranges and fried chicken cubes tossed with oriental dressing. No self-respecting state can claim culinary greatness without an authentic Chinese takeout shop or two to add some spice.

Children, or those who enjoy eating with their hands, can take a gander at the subs n’ burgers portion of the menu, filled with dishes like the Hamburgoo, a play – one supposes – on the restaurant’s name, made of char-broiled patties with some chicken, beef and pork and served with tomatoes, caramelized onions and Monterey Jack cheese on a sesame bun. Not for the faint of stomach. The chicken Parmesan sandwich is a less meaty dish for those opting out of the red meat category. Chicken tenderloin is marinated in a special dressing and grilled according to taste, then topped with coleslaw and crisp bacon.

In the mood for a mid-western doozy of a dish? A platter filled with baby back ribs, shrimp and sausage with a side of french fries and corn on the cob is like the fourth of July on a plate: hearty and tasty.

My particular favorite? The seafood Caesar supreme, a generous plate of traditional Caesar salad tossed with some fried calamari, grilled baby prawns and large crisp croutons drenched in a delicious, creamy Caesar dressing. It’s not exactly a dish for dieters, but as far as taste goes, it certainly hits the spot.

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Burgoo is located at Power Plant Mall, Rockwell; Tomas Morato Extension, Quezon City; The Podium, Ortigas; and Promenade, Greenhills. For inquiries, call 898-1815 to 17.