Kinilnat: Traditional Ilocano salad
MANILA, Philippines – Despite the fact that the Philippines was colonized by Spain for centuries, influenced by Mexico during the galleon trade years, experienced an extremely difficult Japanese occupation, and had close interaction with the Chinese and other races in the course of history, the country has remained steadfast in keeping its local traditions alive all this time.
Its culinary traditions alone are something to marvel at, with each region and province contributing its share of local dishes that have been preserved to this day because local communities continue to cook and enjoy them. When you go around the country, you encounter local dishes that are steeped in history, dishes that are you get to “discover” and taste while visiting a certain place.
In Northern Luzon, you find dishes such as Kinilnat, a Filipino vegetable salad characterized by its savory-salty dressing that is made from bagoong isda (fermented fish sauce). Also known as Kilnat, this salad is made up of blanched vegetables, which can include green leafy vegetables, shoots, blossoms, and legumes. They often include tomatoes, onion or shallots, kamote (sweet potato) tops, okra (ladyfingers), malunggay (moringa), and eggplant.
Depending on the different variations that people have come up with through the years, Kinilnat may also include bulaklak ng katuray, banana blossoms, squash shoots, sigarilyas (winged beans), and cabbage. What binds them together and still defines them as Kinilnat is the process of parboiling the vegetables, since the Ilocano root word “kilnat” means parboiling.
Erick Aguilar, a retired TV camera man who now manages the Honesty Garden in San Mateo, Rizal, whips up a mean Kinilnat Ilocano whenever he craves for this vegetable dish.
Kinilnat Ilocano
Ingredients:
5 bundles talbos ng kamote (sweet potato tops)
1 pc. pipino (cucumber)
1 pc. onion
1 pc. labanos (radish)
3 pcs. medium-sized tomatoes
6 pcs. calamansi
Patis (fish sauce) or salt, to taste
Salted eggs, cut into wedges
Procedure:
1. Wash talbos ng kamote and pick the leaves. Disregard the stalks. Parboil the leaves and set aside.
2. Dice the cucumber, onion, radish, and tomatoes. Mix together in a bowl. Squeeze calamansi juice directly into the vegetables, making sure the seeds are not included.
3. Season with patis or salt to taste.
4. Mix in the parboiled talbos ng kamote.
5. Plate. Top with salted egg wedges. Enjoy!
*Erick’s tip: For variation, add manibalang (almost ripe) mango, if available. It creates a different flavor profile.
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