Foie gras indulgence at The Tivoli

Foie gras or the enlarged liver of a duck or goose is a treat that is achieved by methodically fattening the fowl by force-feeding it a corn-based diet. The resulting smooth, rounded lobes of liver with extremely high-fat content have a creamy and delicate flavor. Whether simply pan-seared or paired with other ingredients, the inclusion of foie gras makes a meal even more special.

At The Tivoli, Mandarin Oriental Manila’s premier fine dining restaurant, the Goose Liver and Mushrooms Festival is ongoing until Sept. 20. It showcases the exceptional culinary aptitude of British chef Paul Anthony Quarchioni who has over 21 years of experience in the kitchen, including stints in Michelin-star restaurants in France and England. Aside from working with Michelin-starred chefs, Chef Paul was at The Oriental, Bangkok as executive sous chef, and presided at the hotel’s banquets. As such, he has cooked for state functions and the royal family.

The dinner he prepared for us began with goose foie gras with mango and ginger caramel — lightly browned and delicious goose liver complemented by ripe sweet mango, an almost indiscernible hint of ginger, and surprising yet pleasing random specks of cilantro. The dish was accompanied by a 2007 Riesling Kabinett Robert Weill that was light, clean and delicate on the palate. The pairing brought one word to mind: Finesse. While a wine with finesse is one that achieves a particularly striking harmony of its parts, the flavors of the foie gras dish and wine were in perfect rapport in enhancing each other’s merits. The exceptional first course left no doubt that we were in for a remarkable meal.

A second course of pan-fried halibut with mushrooms, aged Port, and goose foie gras sauce confirmed our expectations. The mild, white flesh of halibut was enhanced by the rich, brown sauce made even more special with the addition of truffle oil, while the slightly chewy textures and faintly earthy pied bleu (blue foot), trompette and girolle (chantarelle) mushrooms added interesting contrast to the dish. As expected, the 2005 Gruner Veltliner, Schlop Gobelsburg that accompanied the course sustained the motif of finesse and harmony.

It got even better. The penultimate course was roasted Australian beef tenderloin Rossini that was topped with a generous slice of foie gras. Red wine, Barbera d’ asti, Banfi of 2002 vintage went well with the tender meat. We soon polished off the serving.

“Food is the meaning of wine,” writes American food and wine writer Matt Kramer. “Without the context of food, wine is a eunuch, a sterile experience that soon acquires distorted features.”

We sipped and savored the bright Asti Spumante that came with a lovely dessert of strawberry soup with whole milk ice cream and thoroughly concurred with him. The delightful combination of dessert and wine at the end of a superlative meal cheered us to brave the rising floodwaters and thunderstorm raging outside. It fortified us as we headed home through the excruciating traffic of that particular night.

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The dishes are available in a special a la carte menu at The Tivoli, Mandarin Oriental, Manila until Sept. 20. A six-course Surprise menu is also available for dinner at P3,200+. To enhance one’s dining experience, the six-course menu can be enjoyed with red and white French, California and Australian house wines at P3,980+. For inquiries and reservations, call The Tivoli at 750-8888 extension 2431 to 2433