How to make the perfect ‘calamares frito’

Do not overcook this dish. Most seafoods...should be simply threatened with heat and then celebrated with joy. — Jeff Smith, author of The Frugal Gourmet

During my trip to Spain, cala-mares fritos or deep-fried squid was served everywhere as tapas or little appetizers, which I kept eating throughout my tour. My favorite was in Mijas, a charming village located up in the hills overlooking Costa del Sol, a popular beach destination, and it was here where I found the best tasting calamares. It was simple, sweet-smelling and cooked to perfection, almost melting in your mouth, and the succulent flavor of the sea strongly present.

The batter was thin, which made it crispy, but the flavor was intact, indicating that few spices were used to bring out the natural flavor. It was a prime example that the best dishes in the world use the easiest methods, without complicated steps or fancy ingredients. After the meal I approached the chef, congratulated him, and asked him what his secrets are? He said, “Hot oil, cook fast.”  We both laughed and sipped more wine.

Squids are part of cephalopod class, which are related to octopus and cuttlefish. The texture is soft, with little connective tissues to hold it together and that is why cooking it properly is essential. The size varies, with the smaller ones being more tender and desirable. When cleaning squid, hold the body and pull the head. Remove the quill, or the pen shape plastic located inside the body. Peel the skin and cut into rings using a small knife or scissors. Check the head and remove the silver sac, which is the ink sac or the black dye used for paella negra or black pasta. Under the tentacles is a plastic, beak shape mouth. Press under part with your thumb so the two pieces pop out, then wash thoroughly under faucet water.

Traditionally the coating is thin though many restaurants in the Philippines use a thick batter similar to onion rings or fish and chips. Whatever the choice, the crucial part is that the oil must be very hot and enough to cover what you’re cooking, (use wooden chopsticks to gauge the temperature; plenty bubbles around the stick means the temperature is correct) and do not overcook the squid. Maximum time for cooking squid is two minutes, anything beyond will leave a gummy, hard texture, and the natural flavors will be lost.

When it floats or when pierced with a fork and it goes through easily, it is perfect. Remove and strain over paper towel and bowl to remove excess oil. Squid is best when fresh, and you can store it in plastic bags and placed in the freezer for one week.

Fried Crispy Squid Rings (Calamares Fritos)

1.  1/2 kilo small or medium-sized squids. Remove head for another use. Peel off skin, slice into 1/4-inch thick slices. Wash and drain well.

2. Put squid rings in a bowl and season each ring with 1/2 tsp. of fine salt and pepper, 1 tbsp. calamansi or lemon juice. Add  1/4 cup fresh milk.

3. Dredge/coat each squid ring well in 2 cups all-purpose flour mixed with 1 tsp. Spanish paprika.

4. Fry immediately in 4 cups of very hot oil until they float. Squid tends to spatter if not coated well; prepare a cover for yourself. Retrieve fried squid rings with slotted strainer. Drain on paper napkins.

5. Serve with lemon wedges.

Fried Crispy Squid Rings (Thick Batter Version)

1. Follow steps 1 to 3 for squid rings (calamares fritos). Then dip in a mixture of 1 cup each of all-purpose flour and ice cold water, 1 tsp. baking powder, 2 egg whites. Mix them together with a wire whisk.

2. Deep fry, then drain on paper towels.

3. For the sauce mix in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise or yogurt, 2 tsp. crushed garlic, pinch of salt and pepper.