Beyond Cebu’s sugba, lechon, and balbacoa

Food is central to the concept of hospitality in the Philippines. We routinely greet visitors with the question, "Kumain ka na ba?" (Have you eaten?), or "Kain tayo" (Let’s eat.) We are happy when our guests enjoy our food, and although we may not admit it, we are disappointed when they refuse to partake of the meals that took us so long to prepare. Filipinos love eating and good food so much that a large part of the attraction of certain towns is due to food specialties that are available there. A recent trip to Cebu for Turismo Rural, the foundation that seeks to encourage community-based tourism, helped me rediscover the delicious flavors of the locale.

Cebu, of course, is known for its well-seasoned lechon. Unlike other roasted pigs that require a sawsawan, the Cebu lechon’s flavorings permeate the meat so that a dipping sauce may be unnecessary. Carnivores may likewise enjoy balbacoa, a delicious meat stew that is simmered for a long time until tender, flavorful chunks of meat fall off from the bone and engulf each enthusiastic taste bud in your mouth.

The province is surrounded by ocean, and this accounts for the abundance of seafood that can be cooked in a variety of ways. However, grilling or sugba is still the uncomplicated method of choice. Bringing seafood freshly caught from the sea straight into the fire of the grill is a simple method; yet the vivid flavors of the ocean harvest are retained.

Visiting the different towns is the best way to experience local flavor. In Carcar, mounds of chicharon or pork skin cracklings will tempt even the most determined cholesterol-level watcher, while one will discover in Argao that torta is not the omelet that we are used to in the rest of the country.

At Alex Café, housed in an old building that was once a warehouse, service station and war-time pub before its current incarnation as a café, torta is a sugar-sprinkled pastry that uses decadent pork fat drippings instead of the usual store-bought oil or butter, and tuba or coconut wine as a leavening agent instead of the commercial baking soda. The combination of pork and coconut wine may lead one to think: Eating torta is just like going to a drinking session, where there is wine (tuba) and pulutan (pork).

As in all other aspects of life, however, modernization has influenced the field of cuisine. In a bustling and much-visited tourism hub such as Cebu, chefs and food entrepreneurs increasingly have to consider the gustatory preferences of tourists – both local and foreign. Certainly, retaining the old flavors and appearances of food is commendable, but creative flair and innovation in food preparation are important as well. While a repeat visitor may genuinely enjoy what is regularly available in the local food scene, it is always a thrill for food adventurers to find something new during subsequent visits to a place.

Perhaps, this is what inspired the Hotel Resort and Restaurant Association of Cebu (HRRAC) to come up with Cebu Contemporary Cuisine, a compilation of innovative recipes concocted by the creative chefs of Cebu.

"Each page holds the spirit, passion and labor of a dedicated group of men and women who want you to remain close to your heritage and recognize our gifts for creativity," writes Julie Alegrado-Vergara, president and CEO of Almont Holdings Inc. and chairperson of HRRAC’s Cookbook Project, in the book’s foreword

The recipes in the book are a feast of meat, seafood and dessert selections. Innovative twists make traditional kakanin extra special, as in a recipe called cassava roulade with sweet potato candy, pandan lavosh and langka sauce; while the wealth of the sea is celebrated with Malapascua tuna kinilaw with avocado and creme fraiche. The rich diversity of Cebu’s local and expatriate community is also reflected in such recipes as onion and beer soup with corn kernel on wonton cup or tofu in coconut broth.

The appearance of food does much to enhance its palatability, and the beautifully styled dishes, photographed by Raul Arambulo, make Cebu Contemporary Cuisine a mouthwatering visual feast. The artistry of chefs as they deal with the simplest of ingredients to come up with wonderful concoctions is amazing, and it wouldn’t be surprising if this recipe book evolves to become a continuous series of books.

Travel allows us to try something new, and on my last trip to Cebu, I particularly enjoyed an unusual fruit salad whipped up by chef Ariel Manuel for the Maribago Bluewater Beach Resort. Sweet star apples with their milky juice were combined with avocado and papaya cubes and cream to make a delightful salad that I unexpectedly enjoyed. Since papaya and avocado count among my least favorite fruits, I was amazed that I was able to tuck in generous helpings of both at the same time. The experience proved that, indeed, all it takes is a gifted chef to cure us of our food prejudices. Culinary creativity knows no bounds, and we food addicts are like putty in the hands of ingenious chefs.

More importantly, an open mind and the willingness to savor new experiences are essentials to getting the most out of travel. And, while the preservation of traditional cooking flavors and methods is commendable, one also has to sample the continuously evolving contemporary cuisine. Food is an effective gauge to determine the dynamism of a place. It gives us a peek into the creative potential of a people.