Food synesthesia
MANILA, Philippines - I consider food styling as an art,” says inter-nationally known food stylist and culinary educator Delores Custer. “Just like an art-ist starts with an empty canvas, or a writer starts with a blank page, I start with an empty pan, dish or bowl, and aim to make it visually appealing.”
Clearly however, what sets Delores apart is her generosity. By willingly disclosing original styling know-how developed throughout the years, she is able to share the craft of making food look especially appealing. Delores’ most recent book is called Food Styling and it is written in a conversational style that is easy to comprehend. “We all have art in us,” she encourages the audience at her most recent workshop in Manila. “The tools do not make you a good food stylist, but having the right tools when you need them can make a great difference.”
Delores’ phenomenal success is proof that it is never too late to start doing what you really want to do. “I was a fifth and sixth grade teacher, and then started a school for pregnant girls. I knew nothing other than to cook,” she relates. “(But) we had good food, good wine and we entertained a lot.” She says that a loving and supportive family has helped her attain her current status. “One of my jobs is to differentiate the ‘consumer look’ and the ‘chef look’ of food,” she continues. And while it is true that particular kinds of edibles can be different to work with, the skilled food stylist is able to compensate. Truly, the adage “practice makes perfect” is important to remember in this field of work.
“The camera sees food differently from the way we do, but some foods just misbehave,” Delores states matter-of-factly. Aspiring photographers and stylists need not fret that they are unable to duplicate shots similar to the perfect images found in the ads or recipe books. Some may be unreal. The beautiful scoops of ice cream with nary a hint of melting may not actually be real ice cream; that dewy glass of iced tea may, in fact, be a solution of water and food coloring with a bit of detergent to simulate the natural bubbling effect when the drink is poured into a glass. But while presentation makes all the difference, Delores reminds us throughout it all that “imperfection is sometimes more interesting.”
Of course, one should accept that part of the job entails long hours of being on your toes; that excellence can be only achieved through constant repetition of what can easily become tedious processes. Still, thoughtful planning can boost productivity. One tip: schedule the easy shots first so that something is achieved right away, and save the most beautiful shot for last so that “the client leaves happy with a beautiful picture at the end of the day.” Delores has been styling food since 1978, is dedicated to perfecting her craft, derives fulfillment with what she does, is sensitive to the particular needs of a client and is willing to be a good team player to achieve good results. “Egos can get in the way and it is better to be someone that people like to work with,” she believes.
What struck me the most about Delores Custer is her graciousness and sincerity. Visibly tired after a long day of talking, she remained congenial to our horde of autograph-seekers who also wanted a photograph with her. “My job is to make work easier for others,” says the affable lady whose eyes crinkle up and sparkle brightly as she breaks into an infectious smile.
As a food writer and a minority in a roomful of chefs and food service professionals, this experience with Delores Custer and food styling is summed up in one word: synesthesia. Science defines this as the “neurologically-based condition in which stimulation of one sensory or cognitive pathway leads to automatic, involuntary experiences in a second sensory or cognitive pathway.” For me, however, this means a merry mix-up of short circuits in the brain that leads me to perceive things in an unusual manner. I smell texture and taste color. I hear those superbly prepared dishes call out to me to tackle the blank pages and write. My kind of synesthesia serves as a reaffirmation that writing about food can truly be a surprising and satisfying pursuit!
