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So hot, so delicious, so batchoy | Philstar.com
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Food and Leisure

So hot, so delicious, so batchoy

- Lai S. Reyes -

MANILA, Philippines - A steaming bowl of meke noodles soaked in a tasty broth and topped with generous servings of pork meat, liver and sinful bits of chicharon never fails to entice the palate of foreign and local tourists whenever they go to the La Paz public market in Iloilo City.

Popularly known as La Paz batchoy, this Ilonggo comfort food has captured the taste buds of foodies in search of a hot, delicious and filling meal that can be enjoyed any time of the day — in Iloilo.

While a few eateries in the metro also serve this delectable dish, some say that nothing beats Deco’s Original La Paz Batchoy, the inventor of this now-famous meat soup.

I haven’t tried Deco’s so I was delighted to learn that I don’t have to fly to Iloilo to partake of this mouthwatering treat because there’s now a Deco’s Original La Paz Batchoy Since 1938 branch right outside the Magallanes MRT station in Makati.

Here, special batchoy can be savored for as little as P67 and can be paired with the so-called pre-war pan de sal for P3.50 or the Manapla puto for P6.50 per piece.

Well, who could resist this tempting treat, especially if you can have unlimited servings of kaldo (soup), chicharon bits and crunchy garlic as toppings for free?

A Taste Of Ilonggo History

The history of batchoy dates back to the years before World War II.

Federico “Deco” Guillergan Sr., a butcher who worked at the La Paz market at that time, is the man behind what is now known as the La Paz batchoy.

As a cook, Deco experimented with different ingredients to come up with a kaldo (broth) that was meaty and tasty, a dish he could serve market vendors to ease their hunger.

The aroma of the soup percolated through the large Chinese population of the city who would later troop to his makeshift carinderia for a bowl of the hot soup. Soon, noodles were added to satisfy the cravings of his Chinese customers.

Whenever customers would ask Deco what the name of his noodle dish was, he would hastily reply “batchoy,” which simply means meat soup in Chinese.

The people of La Paz enjoyed the original Ilonggo soup for only 10 to 20 centavos per bowl. From then on, they got hooked.

Realizing the need to pass on the legacy to his sons and daughter, Deco has taught his children to love the business that helped put them through school and earn their degrees.

“I started helping my father when I was 12 years old. It was more like play than work. I enjoyed talking to our customers. I would help him chop the meat and veggies in the kitchen. After school, I would volunteer to wash the dishes in exchange for a hot bowl of batchoy,” relates Federico “Nonoy” Guillergan Jr., the son of Deco, who is now managing Deco’s La Paz Batchoy, the oldest batchoy chain in the country.

Perfect Combination

Today, Deco’s legacy of great-tasting La Paz batchoy lives on as the company expands outside of Iloilo.

With the help of another Ilonggo company, Mang Inasal, Deco’s brings its batchoy to key cities of the country.

Joel Adrias, vice president for operations of Deco’s, said the company has recently put up five stores in Iloilo, all with modern facilities that aim to give diners a cozy atmosphere as they enjoy the taste of the original batchoy.

“Upon learning that Mang Inasal is an Ilonggo brand, most of our customers here in Manila would inquire if we serve La Paz batchoy. Well, that’s how the partnership started,” Joel explains.

Under the new management, Deco’s eldest son Nonoy is tasked to ensure that every bowl of Deco’s La Paz batchoy must be authentically prepared.

“I’ll prepare everything so the quality of the dish won’t suffer. We will also have a commissary based in Iloilo so all the ingredients needed for our branches here in Manila will come from the province,” explains Mang Nonoy.

For Lent, Deco’s is planning to serve a vegetarian batchoy topped with tuna chicharon.

“Of course, we also want to reach out to vegetarian diners. I’m sure they’ll love the healthier version,” says Mang Nonoy.

Now in its 71st year, Deco’s still perks up the appetite of even the most discriminate diners.

* * *

Nothing beats the original

Mang Nonoy says not all batchoys are created equal. Here’s a list of the things you should look for in a bowl:

• Lots of toppings. A bowl of batchoy should overflow with toppings.

• Unlimited kaldo (broth). At Deco’s, diners can enjoy unlimited servings of kaldo for free. Just go to the condiments counter where a steaming container of kaldo, garlic and onions is waiting.

• No sebo (lard). One mark of a bowl of Deco’s batchoy is the absence of sebo even when the broth gets cold.

• Crispy chicharon. The crispy pork skin remains crispy after it is submerged in the broth. It stays that way up to the last bite, making your batchoy a gastronomic treat.

• Affordable. A large bowl (Special) of Deco’s batchoy only costs P67, and a bigger bowl (Super) is available at only P75. The bigger bowl with added toppings (Extra) goes for only P77.

* * *

In Manila, Deco’s Original La Paz Batchoy is at Alphaland Southgate, the building at the corner of Edsa and Pasong Tamo, right next to the northbound portion of the Magallane interchange.

For franchise inquiries, call Meryl Aninon at 0922-8552111 or SMS 0917-8006364.

BATCHOY

BOWL

DECO

ILOILO

ILONGGO

LA PAZ

MANG INASAL

MANG NONOY

PAZ

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