Caviar, the new icing on the cake
September 1, 2005 | 12:00am
Long before caviar became the stuff of Noel Coward songs (one of which goes like this: "Spoil the child / Spare the rod / Open up the caviare / And say thank God"), it was humble peasant food for Russians, unceremoniously eaten in large bowls at home. Today, after the Russian czars turned caviar into the high-priced delicacy it is today, little tins of the stuff are featured in menus from trendy boutique restaurants in New York to fancy hotels in England.
Manila, not as suave when it comes to the delicacy many locals still consider just "fish roe left in brine," is slowly waking up to the idea of caviar as a gourmet experience. The trick to producing quality caviar – consumers be warned: Only the top brands, labeled "Malossol," are lightly salted. Lesser grades are much saltier since the salt preserves freshness – is knowing how to cure the roe in sea salt brine for just the right amount of time.
The arrival of branded tinned caviar at the supermarket and specialty stores – from unlikely regions like Mississippi River, which produce sweet, buttery, and nutty caviar, to Montana’s Yellow River, which tastes like Russian Sevruga – has turned it into a mass-market delicacy for the middle classes, which makes it ripe for interpretation for the common man’s palate. Caviar pie, one of the items I featured last week in this section, received so much feedback from readers clamoring for the recipe that I decided to post recipes from several excellent purveyors of the dish – a democratic approach to extravagant fare, which seems poetic somehow.
While any first experience with caviar should be taken solo flight – that means one spoonful of the unadulterated high-end stuff taken in slowly to let the flavors sink in – the caviar pie, with its layers of bright opposing flavors, from the bursting-with-salty-flavor caviar to the rich creamy cheese, the sweet bite of onion and zest of lemon, only adds to the experience, making one of life’s tiniest and exquisite pleasures brand new again.
Favorite luxury food: Beluga caviar, foie gras, anything with black truffle (otherwise known as black diamond) from France’s Perigord and Quercy regions and the Umbria region of Italy, white truffle of Italy’s Piedmont region with its earthy and garlicky aroma and flavor, Richart chocolates, marron glace, chanterelle mushrooms (trumpet-shaped, fresh, wild mushrooms) and Tête de Moine cheese (a semi-soft cheese from Switzerland)
When was the first time you tried caviar?
Would you believe I was 10 years old at the time? My parents, who are extremely sociable folks, hosted a gathering for American visitors at the Subic military base. It was at that party that my father’s friends offered me a taste of Beluga caviar. They were curious to see how I’d react to the taste. Truth be told, it was awful. It held no magic for me, unlike my favorite lollipop and candy. Now, I would do anything for caviar.
When was the first time you made caviar pie?
Some time back, my friends urged me to come up with my own recipe for pie. I’d tasted one version, made by socialite Sigalit Djemal, and it got me hooked. Inspired by her creation, I came up with my own recipe. Since then, I occasionally give it gratis as a gift to special friends or upon request at intimate gatherings. Of course, I just use lumpfish caviar – unless someone sponsors a jar of Beluga caviar, which happens to be the real deal!
What makes caviar pie a decadent gustatory experience?
The texture of the fish roe bursting in my mouth is simply exquisite… an experience comparable to the sweetest of dreams. It’s kind of sinful and indulgent. Just the thought of Beluga caviar, once reserved for the Russian czar, with no one under him worthy enough to sample its heady flavor, makes me feel like I’m part of royalty, pampered like a spoiled czarina.
The recipe:
2 cups softened cream cheese
1/2 cup mascarpone cheese
1/2 cup crème fraîche
1/4 cup chopped chives
1 white onion, minced
4 hard boiled eggs, minced
2 cans caviar
Place cream cheese in the bowl of the mixer. Whip until smooth and creamy for five minutes.
Fold in mascarpone and crème fraîche.
Place a seven-inch ring mold pan on top of a cookie sheet or a plate. Place acetate inside, around the pan.
Transfer the cream cheese filling in the prepared pan. Smoothen with an offset spatula.
Sprinkle chopped eggs evenly over the onions.
Add the caviar.
Place in the refrigerator overnight to set.
Remove the pie from the pan mold. Take off acetate. Place in a serving platter. Serve with toast points like crostini and lavosh or blinis. It also goes well with iced vodka, champagne or sparkling wine.
Garnish with lemon wedges.
To order: Call 726-5316/ 412-7792
Favorite luxury food: Tartufo, foie gras d’oie, jamon iberico and Wagyu beef
When did you first try caviar?
I was 14 years old when I tried it on a spoon and it didn’t really appeal to my taste buds. But when I did get the chance to try it with oysters a few months later, I began to like it more and more. Caviar is really an acquired taste. It takes a few tries before the flavor grows on you.
When did you start making caviar pie?
In 2001 after a trip to the United States. I had a chance to try it there, which my recipe is based on. After a few experiments and modifications, I began accepting orders. At the time, I think I was the only one selling caviar pie.
What makes caviar pie such a decadent gustatory experience?
Well, imagine a blend of different tastes in one bite. The rich, salty and smooth texture of caviar combined with the soft, full and creamy herbed cheese over a light and crispy homemade cracker is enough to make anyone feel like royalty, especially when accompanied by a great bottle of champagne or Prosecco.
The recipe:
Turkish caviar
2 kinds of herbed cheese
fresh cream
eggs
sweet onions
lemon
Layer the ingredients into a cake mold and drizzle with lemon for a final touch. Use wedges as a garnish.
To order: Call 722-2234/0917-5329174
Favorite luxury food: Cakes, chocolates and cheese
When did you first try caviar?
Three years ago, when the cook of Mr. Dee taught me how to make the pie.
When did you start making caviar pie?
About the same time I tried it. It was only served during parties of Ricco Ocampo and Enrico Dee (owners of Kitchen). We only started selling it last year at Kitchen for take-out. (Not available for dine-in clients.)
What makes caviar pie such a decadent gustatory experience?
The pie was created by an innovative team of people, making it a memorable dish for everyone.
The recipe:
400 g. cream cheese
30 g. pistachio
10 g. scallions
120 g. chopped onions
2 g. grated hard-boiled egg
50 g. caviar
2 g. lemon wedge for garnish
10 g. smoked salmon (optional)
Combine cream cheese, pistachio and scallions.
Place half of the cream cheese mixture in a round pan. Follow with a layer of chopped onions, then hard-boiled egg then the final layer of the remaining cream cheese mixture. Place in the fridge to chill.
Spread the caviar evenly over the cream cheese layer. Decorate with smoked salmon and garnish with lemon wedges.
To order: Call Kitchen at 757-4565 (Greenbelt) or 637-8025 (Galleria) at least one day before. Additional caviar and smoked salmon can be added upon request.
Favorite luxury food: Japanese food
When did you first try caviar?
When my boss’ daughters, Veronica Santos-Quan and Lea Santos, arrived from Guam. They taught me the recipe for a party they were having because they wanted the dish to be part of the buffet.
When did you start making caviar pie?
At the same party, one of my boss’ nieces gave me the idea to make caviar pie for extra income. I never expected it to be such a hit. I’ve been doing this for about three-and-a-half years now because sales are really good, especially during the Christmas season. Sometimes demand is so huge, I can’t keep up with the orders or I even run out of caviar.
What makes caviar pie such a decadent gustatory experience?
Probably because the flavors are so unusual and strong. One bite is enough to have you ask for more.
The recipe:
3 blocks cream cheese
chopped onions
lemon juice
150 g. caviar
Place cream cheese in a blender. Add the lemon juice and chopped onion. Place mixture into a mold then top with caviar.
To order: Call 0919-6575503 at least two days in advance.
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