Bacalao: Gastronomic superstar

Cod fish, which is more popularly known locally by its Japanese name gindara, is one of the most important fish in the history of mankind, since it is served either fresh, frozen, or as bacalao, which is dried and salted. Cod’s popularity is due to its distinct buttery flavor. Its flesh, especially if really fresh, separates into large flakes, and is excellent and is easily adaptable from a chef’s point of view.

Bacalao’s superstar status in the gastronomic world hasn’t always been so. In the past, its reputation suffered from its being unattractive in appearance and being considered as penitential food.

Since medieval times, there has always been a heavy demand for salted and dried cod especially during Fridays and Lent. In its dried form, it keeps and travels well, especially important during those times of pre-refrigeration. Even much earlier than that, the Vikings valued the dried fish as an ideal foodstuff on their long sea crossings.

This once lowly food was eaten only by the poor. Nowadays, it is considered a luxury food item, as is apparent with the appearance of bacalao boutiques in major Spanish cities, like Madrid, Barcelona and Bilbao. They sell an amazing selection of varieties and cuts, with the most sought after premier thick loin morro and lomo, square-cut, medium thick pieces for the vizcaina and pil-pil recipes. Prices for the individual cuts of the fish vary greatly.

Bacalao was first introduced to the new world by way of the Spanish and Portuguese colonizers. But the ironic part is that neither do not produce bacalao.

The cold-water fish largely come from Scandinavia, Scotland and Newfoundland, although it may be dried and salted in some parts of the Iberian peninsula. But perhaps it is the Iberian people who had popularized and perfected it to its sublime status to what it is today. Both claim to have 365 different ways to prepare it year round.

Since it was the Basque fishermen who discovered and introduced bacalao to the whole of Spain, here are the two most popular bacalao recipes which originated from the Bay of Biscay.

Bacalao A La Vizcaina (adapted from The Taste of Spain by Domingo/Hussenot)

750 gms. bacalao
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
8 cloves garlic, chopped
1 red bell pepper (capsicum), cut into strips
2 large onions, chopped
2 ripe tomatoes, chopped
1/2 kilo potatoes (optional), peeled and quartered
flour
salt to taste

A day in advance: Cut the bacalao into 1-inch square pieces. Place them in a large basin of cold water and soak for 24 hours, changing the water two or three times. After 24 hours, drain and pat dry the bacalao.

Heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet. Add the onions and garlic and sauté briefly. Add the tomatoes and bell pepper and cook for another 10 minutes. Dust the bacalao pieces lightly with flour.

In a separate skillet or earthenware casserole, heat the remaining oil and fry the bacalao until lightly browned on both sides. Spread the sauce over the bacalao. Season with salt if necessary, and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time.

Serve hot with crusty bread, fried scalloped potatoes or rice. Good for 6 servings

* * * Bacalao Al Pil-Pil

1 kilo bacalao with skin
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
6 cloves garlic, sliced thinly into chips
2 hot red peppers, seeded and thinly sliced
salt to taste

A day in advance: Cut the bacalao into 1-inch square pieces. Place them in a large basin of cold water and soak for 24 hours, changing the water two or three times. After 24 hours, drain and pat dry the bacalao.

Heat the olive oil in a large shallow casserole or skillet. Add garlic and cook over medium heat until it begins to color. Stir in the peppers and cook for another minute. Remove the garlic and peppers and set aside. Pour off most of the oil and reserve.

Arrange the bacalao pieces, skin side down, in the pan in which the garlic and peppers were cooked, and let cook over low heat for 15 minutes, continually moving the pan in a circular motion. This is important to the success of the dish. Hold the casserole and swirl gently and continually, sliding the pan on and off the heat.

Add the reserved garlic, pepper and oil in a slow stream, continuing to swirl the pan to obtain a sauce that will thicken and bind with the gelatin from the skin.

Serve hot with crusty bread, fried scalloped potatoes or rice.