All skewered up at Spargo

There’s a culinary upheaval of sorts going on at the Megamall Megastrip. And as if wonders never cease, it’s centered on the age-old favorite of Filipinos, the barbecue.

Comprising one half of the area which originally opened as Azzuro, it’s a value-laden, yet quality-driven concept concocted by Philip Golding and Hans Montenegro. Labeled as Spargo’s World Barbeques, it’s a simple yet unique way of reformulating the barbecue that we love to pick up on some street corner on our way home. Or for those with sufficient recall, it’s a novel twist on those stands we’d find along the railroad tracks, with those bottles of marinade we’d plunge our sticks into. Albeit we now get to savor the barbecues without the dust and exhaust fumes of yesteryear.

Originally coined to describe the plate the skewers come hanging on, the term "spargo" has become the catch-all phrase, used also to refer to the skewers themselves, as in "One shrimp spargo, and one lamb spargo please, with Hainanese rice." When brought to your table, the skewers can best be described as "served in hangman positions," attached vertically to a metal rack. Dripping onto your sizable bowl of rice and accompanied by sauces galore. Spargo’s is an answer to the rice market which reality dictated had to be addressed, given it’s Megamall location.

As Philip explains, "For me, it’s the king of rice toppings. We quickly realized the need to address this rice market. Azzuro, on its own, would not be able to do that. I’d been toying with this idea for a long time. It’s inspired by a Portuguese dish called espada. After meeting Hans and realizing how he wanted to get into the food business, I felt a modification of the Azzuro setup here at Megamall was the perfect chance for us to work together. Along with Sheila (from the original Azzuro), Mike Toledo and Les Romero, we invited Hans, who brought in Miriam (Quiambao), and we’ve been really going great based on word of mouth alone."

For Hans, it’s been the beginning of a dream come true.

"Sure, I was involved with Ponana in Libis, but that quickly panned out to be more of a bar and night place than a restaurant and food place. And the same thing will hold true for the new incarnation of Ponana, Rockstar. With Spargo’s, I’m truly excited, as food is the primary focus of the establishment, and working with people, like Les and Philip, has been an education all on its own."

And lest you think Hans is just on board as investor or just has a yen for the chef’s duds, know that on three to four days of the week, Hans can actually be found in the kitchen, behind the grill. On any given day, schedule permitting, don’t be surprised to find your spargo being brought to your table by the man himself.

"I’ve always been interested in food. When I was in San Francisco, I’d take courses at the CCA. And I just love puttering around the kitchen."

I joked with Hans about how more than a year ago, when he had just returned from the States, his love for food was more than evident. Naturally, with the offers that came and hosting chores, he’s been on a strict diet and workout regimen.

So, how does one truly maximize the Spargo experience?

Well, it helps if you come in a group, or at least with another diner. The food is meant to be shared, the portions are large and a good part of the fun is in ordering a variety of food and sauces and indulging in a variety throughout the meal.

My spargo (the plate) had four skewers, one shrimp, one beef teriyaki, one honey mustard pork and peppered chicken. They were all expertly grilled and, as there were more than four pieces per skewer, it took some work at disposing them all. There was a big bowl of Hainanese rice, and, as sidings, I had a choice of lemon/garlic sauce, a teriyaki marinade and a super special whipped puree of poached milk, potatoes, garlic and bay leaf.

As Philip was constantly reminding me, "The idea is to present Western food while retaining the richer Eastern flavor this part of the world is known for. Everything is natural and fresh. It’s to show that natural and healthy does not mean one has to compromise on taste. Also, it’s to show how a niche market, in terms of price, can still be accommodated without sacrificing quality."

On top of the skewers, Philip and Hans recommend the salads, especially the pomelo, kamote and green mango salad.

And for those with a sweet tooth, leave space for the extra gooey, super rich gelato. I tried the chocolate gelato and it’s no surprise to find Philip relating how some kids come in just for the ice cream, after they’ve had dinner elsewhere. You know, it’s the type where if you turned the spoon wrong side up it’d still take an eternity to get the gelato falling off the spoon.

Remember when we spoke of value for money? It’s nice to know that a lunch of spargo, salad, ice cream and a drink can take you back for just a little over P300. When you input the sharing element of Spargo’s, the more resourceful diners will find ways to economize further. And it’s very reasonable fare given the unique flavor and quality of what’s on tap.

And knowing Mike Toledo’s penchant as a wordsmith, check out the tongue-in-cheek descriptions of the menu items. Skew you, too, Mike!