Hail to the new Soleil!

To the initiated, the presence of Soleil at Greenbelt 2 is akin to the reappearance of an old friend who has been away for some time. In its first incarnation, Soleil was that tony restaurant found on Pasong Tamo Ext. where cuisine and ambience were served in spades. While there are some subtle changes in concept, given its new location and the times, it’s reassuring to note that chef David Pardo de Ayala is still at the helm and that, while prices may have perceptibly dropped, quality and culinary imagination are still a constant.

As David enthuses, "We were after something less intimidating, giving value for money. It’s the atmosphere of a bistro, a brasserie, what we like to call café moderne. The foie gras and the prime cuts of tenderloin may no longer be found, but within the concept of giving value for money, we were challenged to come up with a menu that’s still representative of the cuisine the old Soleil was known for."

"The approach is hinged on coming up with something modern, as opposed to purely classical," he adds. "We realized that the new location meant we no longer had to be a destination restaurant per se. So, we addressed the fact that walk-in and mixed lunch crowds had to be catered to. For example, our lamb dishes are served with the bone. While this may no longer be the perfectly cut lamb cutlets, you do have the much tastier meat that’s to be found by the bone. Mind you, our menu is still developing and we have several things planned for the near future."

For starters, there’s the bouillabaisse that David is proud to say is the genuine article. It embodies the spirit of what the new Soleil is all about. It’s very rich and tasty, which, personally, is more than I can say for the versions I’ve seen in other eating establishments. The Potage Pistou and the Crustacean Bisque are items that caught my eye and I’ll have to dip into.

For light dining, there is also a range of salads that’s on tap. The Salad d’Epinards, spinach served with egg and croutons and a bacon vinaigrette, was my choice. The Salad Soleil, mesclun greens with grilled shrimps and a BBQ vinaigrette, looked like something I’d have to try the next time. And for those who have to have their flashbacks of the old Soleil, David’s Mozzarella Salad with Grapes and Anchovies is on the menu.

There’s a shellfish selection that is meant to be shared and will place your napkins on heavy-duty service. Plonked on the center of the table, platters and bowls of oysters and steaming mussels are in the offing. This is done in the French style, and it’s about time we had this here in our fair city.

The present set of main courses includes hearty stews with meats and poultry as a staple. Then there are the seafood selections. The Tuna Pave, pepper-seared tuna on pesto, roast vegetables and balsamico, was excellent. The Darne de Saumon is for those who like their fish with a lot of sauce. For the patrons ready to splurge, there is a sea bass dish.

Besides the mango crepe, which was given a fresh tasting twist, thanks to the light coconut liquor, the dessert options boast a White Chocolate Crème Brulée and Apple Beignets.

In the pipeline are daily carvings and burgers and sandwiches. The daily carvings will include gigot d’agneau, pork saddle, beef daube and tom turkey. As for the burgers, watch out for its introduction, as David gave fair warning about the foie gras burger that will be coming our way. That I will have to taste, and if David doesn’t call me, he will pay dearly.

A creation of Caspian Concepts, a restaurant management firm peopled by the likes of Markus Pfeller, Glenn Garcia and Kevin Belmonte, Soleil proudly stands as a welcome addition to the dining experience that is uniquely the new Greenbelt. For David, a native Colombian who followed his heart to the Philippines – he met his wife Gianella Rodriguez when they were both in New York studying at the Culinary Institute of America – Soleil represents a new spirit in dining possibilities.

It’s casual, it’s friendly, it’s al fresco – if that be your choice – and most important, it’s still a feast for your taste buds.