Cooking in Florence

A journey to self-discovery may take a lifetime. My journey took me to a place thousands of miles away from home to a land so blessed with natural beauty and rich in history, to a country so alien yet so familiar. The magical faraway land I refer to is Italy, which is famous for its treasures and magnificent architecture, not to mention its glorious food.

Forgive me for being a bit sentimental, but what started as a journey to enrich my culinary knowledge and skills turned out to be more than what I have bargained for. It proved to be a love affair with a country its culture and its people.

In my opinion, there are two universal laws. One is the law of gravity, and the other is the law that everyone, and that is without exception, is in love with Italian food. The latter is true, judging from the number of Italian restaurants sprouting here and there.

As foodies on a continuous quest, we are becoming more and more sophisticated when it comes to Italian cuisine, and what we do is search for more authentic dining experiences. Well, it just makes perfect sense that the best Italian cuisine can be found in Italy.

A few months back, I shared tales of my trip to San Francisco, where I learned from the charismatic master teacher Giuliano Bugialli in a course on Italian cooking.

I was so much impressed, that I was determined to take it to the next level. There was this hunger in me to learn more and needed to be sated.

So, on the first week of September my, plan was set. It’s Italy or bust! Off I went on a sojourn to the home of world’s greatest artists and thinkers of all time… Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Botticelli, Donatello, Brunelleschi, Cellini, Fra Angelico, Ghiberti and Giotto… to a land described far from reality and close to perfection.

The course I enrolled in was Cooking in Florence, an intensive one-week course, which included trips to Siena and Pisa and to local restaurants, as well. Giuliano School is located in Chianti, the hilly terrain of Tuscany’s famous wine region. His school is historically rich, since the building dates back to medieval Roman times and was once a Roman bathhouse.

There were 22 students. Most were booked in the posh Hotel Gallery Art near Piazza Santa Trinita, which is just opposite the Ferragamo Shop. I, on the other hand, along with another classmate, were billeted in a quaint tourist hostel called Residencia Il Villino.

I failed to book early enough, but it worked out well for me. I loved the place; though low-key in stature, it’s downright rustic, dating back to the 19th century, and is located in the historical city of Florence, close to the Duomo. It is romantic and charming, a special hideaway where you can woo a loved one to say yes or rekindle a fading romance. It was just perfect and the owners even treated us like royalty! It was a far cry from the slightly stiff contemporary chic Hotel Gallery Art. We also got it at a pocket-friendly rate, and we even had extra shopping money at the end of our stay.

We were given the freedom to tour the city upon our arrival, before Giuliano would take us on our first dinner out on the town. I was at a loss as to how to squeeze as many sights in the few hours I have. However, I believe that there is always a Filipino in every corner of the world and he would make himself present when you need him most. The butler at the inn where we stayed was a Filipino named Marlon. Always happy to be of help, he loaned me his bicycle so I could go around Florence. Who could ever imagine me, mobile on two wheels? It’s just so farfetched!

But the adventurer in me took charge and bike I did, like a schoolgirl playing hooky. My breeze through the quaint town was an unforgettable experience. Later that evening my sore behind would nag me as a reminder of my carefree romp that day.

That evening, we were excited over our first dinner out with my classmates and Giuliano. It would be in a restaurant called La Toppa in San Donato, a few minutes outside Florence. We had a glass of wine, as an aperitif, on the bus to set the mood.

One must understand that wine is as much a religion in Florence as food, and it is as basic and elemental as water. Unlike other cultures, Italians have a great relationship with wine. Tuscan wines and food fit together like the pieces of a puzzle.

Dinner at La Toppa was very impressive. Everything that night seemed to blend well. The menu, which Giuliano had the kitchen prepare just for the occasion, was faultless, to say the least. It was exquisite and sure palate pleasers, while the ambience simply magical. It was such a shame to dine in a cozy trattoria such as this without a lover in tow. Perhaps that was the only thing sorely missing that night. Other than that, I enjoyed the experience immensely.

Next day, we were off to Giuliano’s School in Chianti. On our way, we were enchanted by the verdant Tuscan landscape that looked like scenes from Renaissance paintings, with rolling plains of grass, cypress trees, olive groves and vineyards.

Giuliano and his staff greeted us upon our arrival. We toured his school. We were all raring to get into action as Giuliano taught us how to prepare Pasta e Fagioli (Pasta and Beans Neopolitan Style), Fichi in Pastella (Figs in Batter), Pasta al Soffrito (Pasta, Sautéed Vegetables and Aromatic Herbs), Focaccia alle Noci (Walnut Focaccia), Frittele di Patate alla Calabra (Potato Fritters, Calabrian Style), Torta di Farro (Farro Cake from Carrara), Carrot Salad, Soffritto di Coniglio (Casserole of Rabbit) and Insalata di Capone (Marinated Capon Breast) for a late lunch. Tasters, who were actually friends and relatives of the students, came in at 2:30 p.m. and were given the opportunity to critique the dishes prepared. The verdict was excellent, of course!

On our third day, after class, we were to dine out once more at a famous restaurant, this time called Cambi, near the Ponte Vecchio. This time we enjoyed a leisurely walk to the nearby trattoria.

The menu served was once more personally handpicked by Giuliano for our appreciation. To sum it up, the food was great, yet it did not come close to our first dining experience at La Toppa.

On Sept. 12, we had a field day on our trip to Siena, where we marveled at the well-preserved architecture. This was preceded by another sweaty session in the kitchen as we prepared a new set of Tuscan dishes. We went back to school for dinner and feasted on different cheeses, prosciutto and salamis from all over Italy. Totally yummy! If my personal fitness trainer back home knew what I was doing, eating everything sinful in her bible, she’d be in a fit.

The fourth day was something to look forward to, because it was charge-it day for us shop-aholics. After breakfast, we took the bus for the seaside onwards to Forte dei Marmi, the shopping strip of the rich and famous, center of the latest in haute couture, and venue for the fashion trends of the coming year. This could be compared to France’s Champs Elysee or Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills.

We then hied off to San Rossore, for lunch at Poldino, a restaurant by a private hunting area. If La Toppa was the highlight of our dining adventure, this would probably be the lowpoint of our journey. The food was in no way inviting, as if we were amid a hippodrome. We could smell the stench of animal waste, which was the quickest way to dampen one’s appetite. Trying to visualize a pleasant memory, I quickly downed my meal and just looked forward to our next trip, this time to the majestic Leaning Tower of Pisa. And to cap things off and hopefully redeem our failing appetites, we left for Viareggio for dinner at the seaside restaurant Ondamarina. We were served the most delightful seafood fare, overlooking the tranquil seaside.

Tragedy struck on our fifth day, Sept.14. My husband, who’s constantly in touch with me through text messaging, just informed me of the fateful bombings at the World Trade Center. I quickly relayed it to my classmates who were slow to comprehend and accept the turn of events.

Most of my classmates were Americans, some even native New Yorkers. This dampened our spirits since most of them had friends and relatives, who might have been victimized in the disaster. But, I salute them for being calm and united. It gives me goosebumps to recount the time we all held hands and prayed for the welfare of their countrymen. That night, they sang their national anthem with full pride. It bothered me that had this happened to Filipinos, what would we have done?

On the lighter side, it was quite amusing that they were surprised with the technology of text messaging. In a culture where every minute counts and professionals are always mobile, text messaging is considered pointless and a waste of time. Why text when you can call is their justification there?

But since we Filipinos find time for all things, mixing work with play, text messaging has been the norm in keeping in touch and socializing. It is just now that I, as well as my classmates, have realized its importance. From then on, they waited with bated breath to every new message I received from home.

Our last night together was warm and sentimental, to say the least. We specially prepared presents for our mentor and now our good friend Giulliano for the memories we’ll be taking back home. A token of gratitude was handed to his Sri Lankan apprentice chef. We shared great food and wine, the essential ingredients for the celebration of life, warmed by the thought, that one day, we may do this all over again.

When Italians talk about food, they are talking about their souls. It is like a sacred thread that binds them together for generations. And when they savor food, they bide their time. No one rushes from the table. Good food is savored just as much as the pleasure of sharing it with good company.

I have learned to love this place where the rhythm of the season and its ancient traditions are still respected and where the past is always part of the present. That last night, I strolled under the starlit sky and gazed up at the heavens, thankful, that I’ve just been given a taste of it.

My journey goes on, as I continue to share with you the good life through good food… Next stop, the mystique and romance of France. Ciao!