The rise of Koko Buri

MANILA, Philippines - In one of the newer enclaves of the Bonifacio Global City lies a rising star. Koko Buri: House of Rising Chicken is the home of the type of fried chicken that’s crispy outside and tender and juicy inside. One bite into any of the chicken dishes on the menu will tell you that this is the real deal.

Opened in September 2011 at the Clark Freeport Zone by architect Paul Lee and chef/entrepreneur Jeon Pyung, Koko Buri has built up a following among chicken-loving Filipinos. After spending many years growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area, Paul went to the Philippines six years ago and decided to stay here with his wife and their children. Exposure to the culinary atmosphere of Pampanga must have influenced his decision to enter the food business. After much discussion with an all-Filipino staff, they settled on the catchy name Koko Buri.

According to Paul, who could easily pass off as a K-Pop artist with his boyish, comfortable style and good looks, Koko comes from the sound that chickens apparently make. In private, I actually tried making a chicken call by repeatedly saying “koko.” The reference has something to it, after all. Buri, on the other hand, draws from the Japanese rice bowl donburi and from the Kapampangan term for “like.” So the name that this Asian family restaurant adopted literally makes a Facebook statement: “Like chicken!”

Two branches, one in Subic and another in San Fernando, soon followed, until the owners decided to join the Metro Manila fray. Though it is one among hundreds of restaurants that offer chicken in their menu, Koko Buri somehow manages to rise above the competition.

It is categorized as casual dining, something in-between fast food and fine dining. The branch at the Fort is certainly far from shabby. Paul, a naturally gifted artist, employed clean lines and natural lighting, infused with a combination of modern and native elements to create a quiet and elegant setting for enjoying good food and conversation.

He explains that Koko Buri is not a Korean restaurant but a restaurant owned by Koreans, hence, the noticeable absence of kimchi on the menu. What it does offer is a diverse selection of familiar favorites for everyone in the family, as well as new renderings of old recipes.

The starters, for example, range from the well-known calamari and onion rings to the less common Sichuan sizzling gizzard — which is very spicy and quite popular among Koreans — and Kangkong Thai. This last dish, described as “freshwater spinach sautéed with oyster sauce and a hint of Thai spices on blasting fire,” is a nice take on the lowly kangkong.

You may skip the kangkong if you prefer raw vegetables. Muddy Honey is mixed greens with a mustard and honey-based sesame sauce, while Oriental Express incorporates the tangy taste of tangerines for a refreshing appetizer.

For the soup, a must-try is the Nagasaki Champon, which combines udon noodles with vegetables and various types of seafood like shrimp, squid and shellfish, all in a spicy mix. It comes in a large bowl and can feed an entire family. It has just the right kick to the palate to whet one’s appetite for the entrée.

Of course, the bestseller is still the chicken. Soy garlic fried chicken is “glazed” fried chicken that has a taste similar to other brands of Korean fried chicken. The main difference lies in the garlic, as the name proudly banners. For many Filipinos, the garlic accent is a very strong motivation to come back for more. A spicier variant is available for the more adventurous diner. Notable are the crispiness of the skin and the absence of blood near the bone of the chicken thigh that I sampled. Unlike in the case of prime-cut steak, blood dripping from deep-fried chicken is usually an unpleasant experience.

Koko Buri fried chicken has the same texture as the “sweet” chicken, but this one retains the natural flavor of the bird and the herbs and spices that go into the batter.  While a couple of food chains can brag about their gravy, the garlic gravy that goes with this dish offers a tastier alternative.

All chickens are served in large and family packs, good for 3-4 and 6-8 persons, respectively, but between noon and 3 p.m. they are available as part of a lunch special that comes with plain rice.

For the more discerning eater, there are other rice combinations to choose from a veritable foray into Asian rice cuisines. So, apart from plain white rice, you can try Taipei beef fried rice, Tokyo curry or Bangkok fried rice.

But what would a modern family restaurant be without pasta and pizza? Koko Buri has some of the usual fare, such as seafood marinara and spaghetti vongole, as well as Fettuccini di Koko, a really kid-friendly pasta dish in Alfredo sauce topped with grilled chicken breast. If the kids prefer pizza, there’s the cheesy Margherita, although mom and dad would probably enjoy more the healthier Primavera and Baha Fiesta, especially with its bell peppers and onions. Whatever the flavor, the pizza, with its thin crust baked to perfect crunchiness, is a delectable partner to the chicken.

Paul stresses that Koko Buri does not cut corners and only uses the finest ingredients of the highest quality in all their food offerings. “I serve the same food that I serve my family.” This is his benchmark for quality.

Although no new branch is in the drawing board, Koko Buri’s expansion plan envisions a kiosk-style version of its bigger brother. Koko Buri Express will soon be offered for franchising in order to reach a wider audience in places with high pedestrian traffic, such as malls. Until then, if you are in the Metro Manila area, just look for the “House of Rising Chicken” at the Forum @ The Fort, and enjoy food that’s good enough for the owner’s loved ones.

***

Koko Buri @ The Fort is located at the second floor, Forum South Global building, 7th Avenue corner Federacion Drive, Bonifacio Global City 1634.  For inquiries or reservations, call 0932-853 5656.