White Alba Truffles at Sala
Truffles are the “diamonds of the kitchen” according to the great gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, and rightfully so.
They are as elusive as they are indescribable, and also scandalously expensive at about 3,000 euros per kilo.
Chef Kerwin Go of Sala tells us how he got his truffles: “It went down like a drug deal.” Margarita Fores knows a truffle broker in Milan, who has a source called Franco the Farmer from Alba.
Franco the Farmer showed up at the agreed location and spoke only two words: “Mister Go?”
Chef Kerwin handed over the envelope of euros which Franco carefully counted. Franco nodded his head, handed chef Kerwin the product, and walked away.
The truffles were farmed the night prior to the exchange, after which chef Kerwin got on the plane home to Manila.
Voila, the freshest white truffles from Alba, Italy at Sala. What excellent timing too — just before the holidays and on the tail end of the Italian truffle season of October and November when they are most flavorful.
Its taste challenges even the best food writers. It’s hard to describe as nothing tastes like a truffle, especially not truffle oil. For sure, the aroma of a fresh whole truffle is potent and heady, but still defies any categorization of taste. The taste of a fresh white truffle is a singular sensual experience, and the chefs at Sala have chosen the best ways to present them to you.
For the purist, I recommend the fresh handmade, lightly buttered tagliarini with nutmeg. The fresh pasta is a delight unto itself but frankly it’s on your plate as a delivery method for the truffle.
Then there’s the most luxurious omelet ever, made with carefully selected farm-fresh organic eggs, mascarpone, fontina and chopped chive. The truffle is shaved at the table, which transforms the otherwise plain cheese omelet into an ethereal delicately creamy bite.
Selections from the special truffle menu range from P590 for the omelet, to P940 for a portion of risotto big enough for two to share.
Sala Restaurant is on the ground level of the Locsin Building in Makati Avenue. Reservations can be made at 750-1555.
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Ria’s website is FastFoodie.net.
