Above All, Antonio’s
February 15, 2003 | 12:00am
Thinking of Tagaytay, a six-star meal, and pleasurable surroundings to recharge the senses and spirit? The only place to be is Antonio’s.
It is quite easy to go there, too. Located in Barrio Purok in Tagaytay, one can make a landmark out of the very familiar humongous radars on the main highway after Taal Vista. Right across them is a road that will lead you straight to this quaint barrio where the sign of Antonio’s cannot be missed.
If you are feeling sleepy as I was, the bright yellow wooden gate of Antonio’s would pleasantly catch your attention and wake you up. This opens into a narrow pathway surrounded by blossoming young bamboo that leads the vehicle directly to a large pebble-covered yard. A small charming house painted in white quietly nestled some 10 señorita steps above it is also something to rouse your senses. It is Asian for sure yet what specific inspiration, I actually could not tell. But the bright Ming red-colored accents around the main door and the steps certainly speak of an intuitive personal touch that was altogether a design success.
Inhaling the cool air and stretching my body after a ride which only took about an hour and 20 minutes from Makati, I started feeling good already. Thanks to my friend Albert Avellana who nagged me out of a week-long dream to have a sleep-in Sunday. No, he chose not to understand that and simply promised me that "it’s going to be worth the trip."
When we entered the main door, no less than Antonio Escalante, the Lord and Chef of the Manor, was right there to greet us in person. Briefly, I looked him in the eye, observed how he conversed with all of us and his actual personality was instantly recognizable. His aura was vibrant; his smile, honest and no PR talk that I have learned to smell from even a mile away. Instead, Tony Boy, as he is fondly called by friends, spoke clearly with a tone that plainly imparted goodness of heart. "Can you smell what I’m cooking in the kitchen?" he beamed at us, looking very thrilled about what he would serve for lunch. That was very interesting to note also, because I saw that unmistakable passion for cooking. Embraced by that zeal, I knew I would like what I was going to eat. There was a surge of excitement among us and we looked at each other with one word in mind: Yummy!
As Antonio excused himself and made his way back to the kitchen, he told us to feel at home and signaled one of the waitresses to serve us drinks. We were in the middle of a semi-open space with red walls. I then appreciated the fact that the petite looking house I saw outside was deceiving enough to offer such a wonderful surprise once inside.
From there, the view is the whole of Antonio’s – a multi-level panorama of contemporary tropical structures amid large forest ferns, trees , ponds and nooks strategically located to let guests enjoy nature and the shade of very big trees. Fresh herbal flowers including lettuce picked straight from the garden make up the floral accents arranged in small vases and little shallow glass trays. They are scattered here and there to complete the setting, adding a compelling charm to an already beautiful place. Tiny touches like that truly affect the heart because one simply stops to take a closer look probably thinking how a few flowers and leaves put together, so ordinary a chore and so easy to do, can give such visual impact.
The first dining area was invigorating with its intense red walls. A 4x8 abstract painting in deep primary colors further radiated strong energy and warmth. The tables and chairs in heavy wood and natural finish effected a complementary contrast that was visually attractive. The table setting was very tasteful sans borloloy and, most of all, immaculately clean. The amazing thing about all these details and powerful colors was how it projected an unusual overall effect of calm. It was my conclusion that good taste is the key to make something like that happen.
At that point, businessman Joey Santos could not resist calling his friends on his cell phone and in his excitement, everyone could hear what he was saying, "You must come here, you must see this, this is the place to be, etc., etc." Truly, it is a no-nonsense place where there is order and beauty. There is no pretension to project an image and as it is, everything you see is natural and effortlessly done. I ran my finger on a ledge and confirmed my suspicion: The place is spotless.
Moreover, because I am really totally finicky and adverse to not-so-clean kitchens, I had to take a peek at what was going on in there – and although more equipment was still arriving to make it complete, there was no doubt that I would enjoy my meal.
It was 11.30 a.m. and people started filling up the place. Antonio’s opened only last November and he has been booked to the limit since. For this particular Sunday, all the tables were taken and Agnes, the lady of the house, was sadly turning away people.
I went down to the area where a playground for children was set up. It is good to know that the place is children-friendly which I personally believe only truly good souls allow. The clean breeze, with the scent of herbs in that open meadow facing the mountains, was like an aromatherapy treatment with nature for free.
I also explored their farm of herbs and fresh vegetables. Moises, the maitre’d, was proud to say that the vegetables are picked some 30 minutes prior to serving – giving just enough time for the salad greens to be washed and immersed in purified water. On the way back, one of the farmers carried a bunch of herbs with tiny yellow flowers. I called him kuya and asked what they were. He said they were basil flowers on foot-long sprouts of the plant which have to be cut for the leaves to grow faster. As everyone knows, basil leaves are a favorite herb seasoning in European cooking. Well, instead of throwing away these pretty flowers, they are put on bowls to decorate the tables of the main dining. They smelled so wonderful and made me feel like my lungs were instantly rejuvenated.
By then, everywhere I looked, the tables were all taken and I counted some 80 heads. And then lunch was ready. Large plates of salad complete with quiche, fresh grapes and strawberries were served by ladies in pure white uniform. The greens were so crispy and sweet like there was still "life" in them. Then a refreshing soup made of turnip called kholrabi, also fresh from the garden, followed. A semi-cold soup, it was so good that the bowl suddenly seemed too small for a big eater like me.
Then Tony Boy came out with one of his specialties: a roasted lechon done the Filipino and German way, and the garnish included sauerkraut, horseradish and applesauce. When he started carving, we could hear the crunching sound of the skin and he offered a hefty serving. It was the crispiest and most grease-free delicious lechon I have ever tasted. The talking stopped and it was a quiet moment – I looked around and everyone was savoring the meal – picture-perfect pleasure on their faces.
Capped with freshly -baked apple strudel, the puff pastry that wrapped the dessert was so delicately thin and crisp. "That is good baking," I said and Albert was quick to remind me that Tony Boy was honed in top hotels and restaurants in Germany and Australia.
I also saw pan-seared duck liver and grilled lamb brought to the next table. Further down, a group of bankers feasted on Angus steak and fish. The wine list is impressive and is very telling that the chef understands his wine.
To say it was a great lunch is an understatement because it was actually fabulous. Much as I feel that the whole experience is priceless – the fact remains that Antonio’s is as reasonable as his manners are gracious.
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