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Food and Leisure

Giant legs of Vietnam's 'dragon chicken' a Lunar New Year delicacy

Agence France-Presse
Giant legs of Vietnam's 'dragon chicken' a Lunar New Year delicacy
Left photo taken on Jan. 10, 2023 shows a Dong Tao chicken in a poultry farm in Hung Yen province. Right photo taken on Jan. 15, 2023 shows a chef preparing Dong Tao chicken feet at a restaurant in Hanoi.The lumpy legs of the Dong Tao chicken -- named after the commune where they're bred in northern Vietnam -- are considered a delicacy and are a particularly popular dish among the wealthy during Vietnamese new year, known as Tet.
AFP / Nhac Nguyen

HUNG YEN, Vietnam — On a farm close to Hanoi, Le Van Hien picks out the best bird among his flock of "dragon chickens" -- a breed with legs as thick as a brick that can fetch up to $2,000 a head.

The lumpy legs of the Dong Tao chicken -- named after the commune where it is bred in northern Vietnam -- are considered a delicacy, and are particularly popular among the wealthy during the Vietnamese Lunar New Year, known as Tet.

This photo taken on January 10, 2023 shows poultry farmer Le Van Hien holding the legs of a Dong Tao chicken at his farm in Hung Yen province. The lumpy legs of the Dong Tao chicken -- named after the commune where they're bred in northern Vietnam -- are considered a delicacy and are a particularly popular dish among the wealthy during Vietnamese new year, known as Tet.
AFP/Nhac Nguyen

Hien's prized four-kilogramme bird, whose enormous legs make up around a fifth of its body weight, was sold for about $150 -- but especially large pedigree chickens have been valued at more than 10 times that. Some are even entered into beauty contests. 

The key to the bird's taste is its diet of corn and rice and the freedom it has to roam, Hien told AFP.

Although the laying hens are kept in battery cages, which have been banned in some countries across the world, the chickens bred for meat are let loose in a small garden.

"The more the chicken walks, the stronger and bigger their muscles are," said Hien, who has been breeding chickens for more than 15 years. 

The meat of the Dong Tao chicken -- which can reach up to 10 kg -- is prized for its tough and chewy texture and is also low in fat. 

It is sometimes served boiled, but also fried, stewed or served with lemongrass. 

This picture taken on January 15, 2023 shows Dong Tao chicken feet being cooked at a restaurant in Hanoi. The lumpy legs of the Dong Tao chicken -- named after the commune where they're bred in northern Vietnam -- are considered a delicacy and are a particularly popular dish among the wealthy during Vietnamese new year, known as Tet.
AFP/Nhac Nguyen

Le Van Luan, who picked Hien's chicken meat as a year-end gift for his business partners and elderly relatives, is a regular customer in Dong Tao.

"The best part of the Dong Tao chicken is the skin of their legs. The bigger the legs are, the tastier," he said.

CHICKEN

LUNAR YEAR

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