Why the No. 1 chefs in the world and Singapore decided to give back to the Philippines

SINGAPORE — Chef Joan Roca, whose restaurant El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain, topped the 2013 San Pellegrino & Acqua Panna World’s 50 Best Restaurants, was in the Lion City for the first time. More specifically, at Restaurant André in Chinatown, where as part of the 2014 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants weekend, he would be cooking with the namesake restaurant’s chef-patron André Chiang for a very special one-night-only Four Hands charity dinner.

Chef Joan does not speak much English; rather, only his native Spanish and French, which chef André, Singapore’s No. 1 chef (and currently No. 6 in Asia, and No. 38 in the world) is completely fluent in as well, having lived in France since the age of 15, training under Pierre Gagnaire, L’Astrance, Maison Troisgros and Le Jardin des Sens. He would be our translator that afternoon.

“Elle demande si c’était difficile de vous convaincre de venir faire la cuisine ici à Singapour?” the Taiwanese-born chef, known for his Octaphilosophy, translated. It was in reference to my question if it had been difficult to convince the best chef in the whole wide world to cook for this dinner.

“Non, non, non,” said the Spanish chef, who pioneered the widespread use of sous-vide cooking in the ’90s with his Roner machine. “Pour moi, c’est très facile.”

FOR THE TYPHOON YOLANDA VICTIMS

What made this extra special to me is that they were donating the proceeds from the evening’s dinner to the victims of Typhoon Yolanda (Haiyan) through the Philippine Red Cross. “I was very touched by what was happening in the Philippines, and I really wanted to do something,” shared André. “We are a small restaurant but during this ‘Asia’s 50 Best’ period, we are able to host a chef like Roca and give something to our neighbors. I think that’s really what showcasing Asia’s 50 is all about.”

Roca, for one, had left the comforts of his kitchen behind in Girona to cook with a completely new staff, in a country he’s never been to before. “Of course it’s very difficult to cook outside our comfort zone,” he shared, “But cooking is our medium to get chefs together for a goal we are trying to deliver — to get to know each other and our different cultures, and also to be able to give back to society.”

BEST MEAL EVER

By 6 p.m. sharp, both chefs were in the kitchen, cooking and plating what was to be one of the most memorable dinners for the restaurant’s capacity of 30 very lucky patrons. Many had flown from all over Asia, some from as far as the USA (and with a very long waitlist) for this special evening.  I had a chat with André’s wife, Sudarampai “Pam” Chiang, who was also working the floor that evening, welcoming guests, and ushering them to their tables. Originally from Thailand, she shared how they also had their devastations, and this time they would like to help the Philippines.

The place cards/ menu for the evening featured a photo of the aftermath of Typhoon Yolanda in Tacloban, courtesy of Philippine Red Cross, and autographed by both chefs. There were 30 courses that featured the best of the best. André Chiang had Kohlrabi/Mushroom Floss/ Pear Ice/ Leek Water, which was three raviolis stuffed with crabmeat and mushroom, served with pear snow, and finished with slightly smoked leek water. He also had a to-die-for “Camembert” fait Maison, where dehydrated skim milk was used to wrap around the cheese, served with hay ice cream. Cleverly tucked underneath is the story of how he started out, in the form of a brochure. 

Joan Roca recreated memories of his bonfires in the countryside of Spain by bringing in the fire — without the fire — through the Baby Octopus with Paprika Smoke. The aroma of the paprika came up from the tiny hole that’s punctured in the vacuum-sealed bowl and every time the surface was hit, more smoke came out. The Lemon Cloud was inspired by a citrus perfume created by his brother — a paper triangle sprayed with the scent was set on the table — to sniff before taking in the lemon parfait.

AN EDUCATIONAL FORUM

It definitely kicked off my Asia’s 50 Best weekend with a bang. The Sunday after saw a forum entitled “The Future of Food: Back to Our Roots” at the Raffles Hotel, where chefs Joan, André, Ben Shewry of Attica in Melbourne (No. 21 in the world) and Bjorn Franzen of Restaurant Frantzen in Sweden (No. 12 in the world), Unlisted Collection CEO Loh Lik Peng and Les Amis Group director Raymond Lim spoke about current food issues and trends. Hong Kong’s Bo Innovation (No. 15 in Asia) chef Alvin Leung, had everyone roaring with laughter with his witty quips. Several chefs and restaurateurs from the Philippines also flew in for the occasion: chef Jordy Navarra of Black Sheep (who trained under Leung), and Vask’s chef Jose Chele Gonzalez and Carlo Calma.

THE BEST IN ASIA

On Monday the 24th, the Capella in Sentosa was the backdrop for the biggest culinary awards in Asia. It was a gathering of a VIP group of journalists, panelists, jury members, chefs and hoteliers for the live announcement. Free-flowing Veuve Clicquot, Robert Mondavi wines and canapés were passed around before guests were ushered into the ballroom proper close to 9 p.m. — and the winners were announced one by one to the background music of Lorde’s Royals. 

David Thompson from Nahm in Bangkok was named Asia’s best. He was followed by last year’s winner, Yoshihiro Narisawa of Les Créations de Narisawa from Tokyo and Gaggan Anand’s eponymous Gaggan restaurant, also from Bangkok at third place. (For the full list of winners, visit www.theworlds50best.com) Special awards were also given out to Ivan Li of Family Li Imperial Cuisine in Beijing (Diners Club International Lifetime Achievement Award), Lanshu Chen of Le Moût in Taipei (Veuve Clicquot Best Female Chef), Janice Wong of 2am: Dessert Bar in Singapore (Cacao Barry Best Pastry Chef), and André Chiang of Restaurant André in Singapore (Chef’s Choice Award, as voted by all his peer chefs).

In response to how the winners were selected, William Drew, group editor of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, explained, “The list is based on a global poll of industry experts — the same votes that result in the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list, to be revealed on April 28, 2014, in London. The listings are created using the same academy system, which is made up of an influential group of more than 900 international leaders in the restaurant industry. The academy comprises 26 separate regions around the world, each of which has 36 members and each member is allowed to cast seven votes. Of those seven, at least three votes must recognize restaurants outside of their own region … and they must have eaten in the restaurants they nominate in the previous 18 months.”

While the group acknowledges that not everybody will agree with the results and rankings, they say that “the list provides a snapshot of those restaurants that have, in some way, had a positive impact on the region’s dining scene over the past year.”

That, and also an opportunity to give back. Hopefully next year, though, we’ll have a restaurant from the Philippines on the list.

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More on the Four Hands charity dinner and the awards in the April issue of Lifestyle Asia magazine (One Mega Group).

You can reach me at inbetweendeadlines@gmail.com, www.cheryltiu.com, on Twitter at www.twitter.com/cherytliu or on Instagram at www.instagram.com/chertiu. Text & photos by CHERYL TIU