Business lunches at The Tivoli just got more exciting

MANILA, Philippines - The Tivoli, Mandarin Oriental, Manila’s fine-dining restaurant, recently unveiled its new a la carte menu, and, while a number of favorites occupy their usual exalted positions, the majority of the menu boasts new gastronomic delicacies fit for the most rarefied gourmands, and pushes The Tivoli’s “contemporary European” boundaries as well.

For instance, how about starting your meal with Australian veal kidney? No joke: it’s a dish the Mandarin’s food and beverage director Peter Pysk has fond memories of eating growing up, and he thinks Manilans are ready for it, too.

Or, for non-meat eaters, how about a beetroot risotto? “Once again it’s a little bit of an experiment,” Pysk says. “Here in the Philippines I don’t see much beetroot used in cuisine.”

Pysk and executive sous chef Remi Vercelli are the men behind The Tivoli’s deliciously adventurous new flavors. Vercelli trained in the kitchens of Paul Bocuse and Alain Ducasse, working at the former’s brasserie Le Sud Paul Bocuse in Lyon and the latter’s Benoit Bistro Alain Ducasse in New York City, so he brings with him a wealth of expertise in cuisine that straddles traditional French and modern European.

“I think my signature dish is the sautéed duck foie gras with asparagus, mango and green papaya chutney,” smiles Vercelli.

We take him at his word and order this starter, which indeed turns out to be a dish you could hang your name on — perfectly cooked, boasting a faultless flavor profile and generously portioned enough to share. It’s a stunner.

The foie gras also comes terrine-style with a pickled mushroom salad that is pickled inhouse. “It adds a nice zest and cuts through the richness of the terrine,” notes Pysk, and we agree.

Some people feel adventurous ordering snails even if it’s a traditional dish in France. The Tivoli cooks their escargot with a variety of herbs, butter and garlic, and, if you’re wise, the best way to cap the experience is to sop up that lovely sauce with a piece of bread at the end.

The true measure of gustatory boldness, though, is the Australian kidney a la dijonnaise “vol au vent.” We ordered one for the table to share, and though we’ve never been huge fans of organ meat, we had to admit that Vercelli’s version was mild and refined, cloaked as it is in mustard and puff pastry.

In the soup section of the menu is another interesting offering: gazpacho Andalusia served hot or cold. “We wanted to put it on the menu because of the hot weather in the Philippines,” notes Pysk, “but traditionally in this part of world people are not open to having a cold soup, so they’re given the option to try it hot.”

As one who dances flamenco Therese thought it would be a crime to have her gazpacho heated up, so she ordered it cold, and it turned out to be one of the lunch’s surprise hits. Tablemate Jeroen Van Straten, who’s a chef, loved it so much he polished off the bowl after Therese had her fill.  He said it was the best gazpacho he’d ever eaten.

The mains are no less spectacular. Though The Tivoli doesn’t advertise it, they could pass for a premium steakhouse and compete with the best among them. Pysk claims they have the best selection of meats in town, with US-certified Angus prime tenderloin, Wisconsin super prime sirloin and rib eye, Australian beef tenderloin, chateaubriand (500 grams of Australian tenderloin served with escargots and fit for sharing) and the very luxe US beef tenderloin Rossini, The Tivoli’s sacred symphony of beef, pan-fried foie gras and truffles (served fresh, when available).

The grilled Australian lamb chops are another excellent choice, hearty and flavorful with accompaniments of chorizo, a white bean stew and lamb jus.

Seafood lovers should try another unusual entrée: the tartare of swordfish “César,” The Tivoli’s take on fish and chips. “Inside it’s a tartare, but very lightly grilled on the outside for a bit of color,” says Pysk. “It comes with chips like thick matchsticks fried in clarified butter in a pan. It’s a very nice dish for summer.”

Another recommendation is the steamed Dover sole paupiette with seafood stew and lobster broth, while the beetroot risotto and gratinated crepe primavera are must-tries for vegetarians.

For dessert, The Tivoli’s trademark strawberry and basil dome still elicits oohs, ahs and Instagram videos when the hot chocolate sauce is poured over the chocolate dome to reveal strawberries and rivulets of more chocolate inside. It’s hard to top that, though Vercelli’s meringue “snow egg” on a calamansi granité tries. We would have gone for the liquid nitrogen ice creams as well, but Mandarin Oriental’s extremely thoughtful director of communications Charisse Chuidian had Tivoli staff bring in a birthday cake for Scott. Made of spiced chocolate, it’s another story in itself — one with a lot of superlatives.

So whether you decide to stick to old favorites or step outside your comfort zone with the daring new additions, make sure to check out The Tivoli’s new seasonal à la carte menu, which has just been kicked into overdrive.

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The Tivoli is open for lunch Monday to Friday and dinner Monday to Saturday. For more information on the new a la carte menu, contact the Mandarin Oriental, Manila, at 750-8888 or e-mail momnl-tivoli@mohg.com.