Eclectic, comfortable fine dining at The Tivoli

In recent years some have declared fine dining dead. Perhaps the biggest move towards a more approachable way of eating amazing food was when Joel Robuchon opened his bar-counter, no-reservations, create-your-own-degustation concept L’Atelier in Paris some nine years ago. It was quite the revolution in the food world. Using good quality paper napkins, sitting at a countertop with an open kitchen, guests having to line up and no VIP treatment for anyone. It was all first-come, first-served, you controlled the cost of your meal, picking and choosing from small plates and yet everything was impeccable.

Now it isn’t uncommon to have chefs opening up “bistro-style” versions of their namesake restaurants. In the days where jeans have become acceptable almost everywhere, do people really want to eat in a stiff, hushed environment, where there is more silverware and glasses than Elizabeth Taylor had husbands?

The stigma of fine dining is in its stuffiness and snobbery. Where it was once apropos back in the days when gentlemen wore hats and ladies wore gloves, and a night out on the town meant putting on your finest sparkles, it almost seems obsolete today. When Copenhagen’s Noma, San Pellegrino’s and Acqua Panna’s world-number-one best restaurant, failed to win a third Michelin star this year, the world of good eating was caught in a debate. How relevant is all the livery today? Shouldn’t a restaurant’s quality be based simply on food?

Extraordinary dish: I would rush over to Tivoli to see if they still have the Brittany lobsters in chanterelle jus.

The nostalgic old soul in me still enjoys the occasional pomp and special treatment. I like the sparkle of pretty crystal glasses in candlelight, the flourish with which the servers bring you the dishes like it was a precious present, the glint of real silverware and small details like having a large selection of fine wines by the glass.

Last week I was graciously invited by Charisse Chuidian, the lovely lady behind Mandarin Oriental Manila’s communications team, to try out Tivoli’s latest menu. My last experience at Tivoli was rather pleasant, at the time their new executive sous chef, Remi Vercelli, brought out some great French classics — unpretentious, hearty and refined all at the same time. This time around, in collaboration with the hotel’s executive chef Rene Ottlik, the menu was more eclectic and the vibe more fun and fresh.

Lunch was bustling with people; the ambience was relaxed and sophisticated all at the same time. The modernist black and white décor, fresh bright flowers and gorgeous appetizer buffet were inviting and warm — not quite the usual quiet solemnity associated with fine dining.

As usual we were spoiled rotten with amazing things, from the freshly baked breads down to the little seasonal surprises and the breathtaking trolley of wines by the glass administered by a real sommelier who knew his stuff.

We were all served this beautiful heirloom tomato salad. Beef heart tomatoes, green tomatoes, white tomatoes … all kinds of sunny hues, tangy and sweet, seasoned just right with nothing over the top, just the purity of a great product.

For the health-conscious their broccoli soup with egg white and curry is really pleasant — bright green, thick puree with a smoky tinge of curry. It was, however, outshined by its richer contemporary. Their duck consommé was rather spectacular. Little pillows of duck ravioli and an island of seared foie gras bumping about floating in a pool of crystalline, rich duck broth. Unadorned, well executed and comforting. Definitely worth the trip on a rainy day.

I ordered some very interesting dishes and tried to steer clear of the usual heavy, big-ticket items. I truly enjoyed the cod fritters, despite its rather messy presentation. I loved the boldness of the flavors. Crisp, rich fritters cut by a deep, tangy, spicy tomato puree and enhanced by a creamy saffron aioli. It’s a rather daring choice to use Antillais or Caribbean flavors in the Philippines; it’s rather uncommon but with the right push could have great success.

Amid the mains, I picked and nibbled from everyone else’s plate. The Duo of Duck Mulard was a fun take on the classic duck à l’orange. The 12-hour lamb shoulder was so tender you could eat it with a spoon — so Mediterranean with its Kalamata jus and a mix of heady oriental spices. Not for the light eater but for those with an adventurous palate ready to indulge. I thoroughly appreciated my gnocchi Niçoise style, a nice, comforting dish with grilled veggies, fresh pesto and some nutty Parmesan.

As with every concert or show there is always a star. That day one dish truly stood out as extraordinary: Brittany lobsters in a chanterelle jus. Drenched richly in brown butter, lightened by the faint aroma of tarragon, the lobster flesh cooked just so it is yieldingly tender. A truly gorgeous dish. A special for the season, I would rush over to see if they still have it. If not I sincerely encourage the chefs to recreate a version with our equally tasty local lobsters. So sensational I couldn’t resist having a bit of white wine to accompany it — a nice Alsatian white, crisp and balanced.

As we laughed and giggled in good company, I regretted having to rush off to my other meetings. During the car ride I pondered my meal and came to the conclusion that if fine dining were always this warm, friendly and enjoyable, then, well, it’s time for its resurrection.

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In partnership with Rougié and Philippine Wine Merchants, The Tivoli brings back “Foie Gras and Mushrooms,” a signature promotion that showcases Europe’s prized delicacies from Oct. 1 to 6. A wine-pairing dinner on Oct. 2 highlights the six-day food promotion, with Rougié’s culinary ambassador chef Jocelyn Deumie in attendance. A six-course menu will be paired with Bolla wines from Italy.

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The Tivoli in Mandarin Oriental Manila hotel is open for lunch Monday to Friday and dinner Monday to Saturday. For reservations and more information, call Mandarin Oriental, Manila at 750-8888 ext. 2433 or e-mail MOMNL-tivoli@mohg.com.