'Linamnam': A roadmap to flavor

Your body is not a temple, it’s an amusement park. Enjoy the ride.” So said the famous chef, author and traveler Anthony Bourdain in his book Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly.

Seemingly, it is a philosophy that sculptor, painter, chef, food entrepreneur, food stylist, photographer and STAR Lifestyle columnist Claude Tayag has taken to heart. Traveling throughout the Philippines with his wife Mary Ann Quioc to sample the best of what the country has to offer, the couple has collaborated to write what is a veritable roadmap and gourmand’s guide to flavor.

Initially, the task seemed formidable. “When Claude first broached the idea, I could not share his excitement,” shares Mary Ann. “My mind was racing, and I thought I would miss my work and home terribly. As he talked, I was computing the expenses and lost opportunities. And when he said we would spend for all our airfare, hotels, meals, etc., as he did not want to compromise the integrity of the book, I almost fainted.”

However, those who know of Claude’s creativity and determination will have no doubt that when he sets his mind and heart to embark on a project, he will surely get it done. Because of this, Mary Ann’s graciousness, sense of practicality and level- headedness is the perfect foil for her husband’s creative drive. She writes, “To Claude, much of the joy is in the journey, the search, the serendipitous discovery along the way. When he works, his high is in the creation stage, never mind if the end product is not useful, never mind the amount of time and money he spent in creating. Meanwhile, I am very cost-conscious, writing down all our expenses — and believe it or not, I find joy in doing so, especially when I see that everything, to the last centavo, is accounted for. Claude says it is a damn waste of time. He often asks, ‘Who are you doing the accounting for?’ especially when we are on holiday.”  And surely, Mary Ann’s matter-of-fact approach has been valuable in keeping the project on track.     

The result of the joint effort is Linamnam, which could perhaps be described as a guide to some of the best dining spots in the country. The title is apt since linamnam is the Filipino word for “to savor,” and usually comes with some salivation and a smacking of the lips in anticipation of something good to eat.

Claude and Mary Ann: “Here are some culinary guilty pleasures from our serendipitous discoveries, and friends’ recommendations from around the country.”

In the introduction, Claude explains their choice of title. “During our interview with globetrotting chef Anthony Bourdain for his much-touted TV-show episode on the Philippines, shot on location, in part, in our house, Bale Dutung, last October 2008, he asked me how I would describe Filipino cuisine.

‘In a word,’ I said, ‘it is the linamnam. It’s like umami, a most convenient way to explain it.’

He grasped it right away. ‘Can you say the word again?’ Bourdain requested.

‘Linamnam,’ I said.

‘Strange,’ he replied, ‘my two–year–old daughter Ariane says ‘Namnam’ whenever she’s fed something she likes.’ He paused for a few seconds and concluded, ‘Now I get it. She has a Filipina nanny!’

“Ergo, in this age of globalization and the diaspora of the Filipinos for greener pastures and as migrant workers, every other kid in the world would have a ‘Filipino connection’ somehow.”

The Filipino linamnam connection comes from the different regions of Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao. To make it easier for travelers to find their way to the dining hotspots, the book has been divided into geographical sections that include Amianan (Ilocos Norte, Ilocos Sur, La Union, Pangasinan, Cagayan and Baguio City); Central Plains (Tarlac, Nueva Ecija, Pampanga, Bulacan , Bataan); Metro Manila and  Southern Tagalog (Cavite , Laguna, Batangas, Rizal and Lucban, Quezon.)

Food exploration also took them to the Bicol Region (Albay, Camarines Sur); Eastern Visayas (Cebu, Negros Oriental, Bohol, Leyte); Western Visayas (Iloilo, Aklan, Bacolod, Boracay); and Mindanao (particularly Bukidnon, Cagayan de Oro, Davao City and Zamboanga City).

It is especially helpful that the restaurants’ addresses and contact numbers have been included in the book.

Linamnam is a feast of sumptuous description and mouthwatering photographs. And really, the text message from Claude that came with a smiley was fair warning” “Here’s a patikim of Linamnam for your delectation,” he sent. “Don’t read on an empty stomach.”  I just managed to scan through the book before succumbing to a mad case of the munchies. That meant honing in on the section of food spots in Metro Manila — to check which one was nearest so that I could make a beeline to the place.

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Anvil Publishing, The Podium and National Book Store are launching Claude Tayag and Mary Ann Quioc’s Linamnam today at 5:30-8:30 p.m. at The Podium, Atrium, 12 ADB Avenue, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City. The launch is open to the public.