Old Manila is still a gem

The Peninsula for me was always a rather legendary place. I’ll never forget the awe I experienced as a child whenever I would walk through those lobby doors. Even as an adult the lobby atrium is impressive. It is tastefully decorated, reminiscent of colonial architecture and with a very chic restraint in an otherwise rather garish city.

As a child I loved the lore of high tea and would come often enough with my mother. I adored their truffles and remember the time I excitedly ran out of the car to buy some, tripped and fell flat across the pavement, breaking my nose, ending up in Makati Med instead of with my precious chocolates. I also remember being in France, watching as the hotel was immortalized worldwide with a tank rolling through the front door. How many establishments can say that?  

There is no lack of excitement at the Pen. Between prestigious international guests like Brigitte Bardot, Colin Powell and Prince Andrew (for whom the kitchen staff had to iron bacon because he only ate the stuff flat), the society ladies who lunch, the politicians who meet to shape our country’s future, the people who line up for the P35 halo-halo, the businessmen and tourists, wives, husbands and queridas, runaway grandchildren and the inevitable angelitas de la noche ... with over 630,000 guests served in the restaurants annually, Manila Peninsula is a pretty happening place.

Rich and flavorful: The veal cheek agnolotti

Often outshined by the lobby, there is, however, a gem of a restaurant — Old Manila. I remember my very first “official assignment” as a Philippine STAR writer. I was a little nervous. All the who’s who of food writing was going to be there. Seated next to Mickey Fenix, somewhere down the table Myrna Segismundo ... needless to say, the table was filled with bigwigs. The food was spectacular, the wine excellent, the service impeccable and the conversations stimulating. I was impressed by the real silverware, the place settings, the old-world feel. Did you know that they shine 609 tons of silverware a year? Worth all the effort, it was formal but comfortable. It is also no surprise that it is one of the most popular venues for marriage proposals.

All of this is very interesting, but does that all really matter? I mean, at the end of the day, it all boils down to the food. You can’t eat ambience or folklore. And if there is a time to try Old Manila, it’s now. At the recent truffle festival, chef Sam Linder worked wonders with them. At the helm of this restaurant for a year, having previously worked at Aubergine and in the Philippines for a total of almost three years, this Swiss mister is familiar with what a Filipino audience likes but executes with the highest international standards and signature Swiss precision. Oh, yes, that’s an exact four grams of truffle on your plate (quite a lot). But if you smile extra hard, he might just give you an extra shaving or two.

However, it is not because he’s stingy with the pricey stuff. He explains that “it is not meant to overpower everything else but to enhance the rest. There should be harmony and balance on the plate.” He is one of those chefs where you don’t leave anything on the plate. There is no unnecessary garnish or things in excess. When you try the smoked Wagyu beef carpaccio or the veal cheek agnolotti, there is an awakening; it all makes sense.

Paper-thin slices of smoked Wagyu beef melt in your mouth as you are slowly intoxicated by the truffle tapenade. Enhanced by the richness and creaminess of the tiniest little soft poached quail eggs (poor cooks in the kitchen, I appreciate the meticulous effort) and the balance of sharp acidity with a sweet and tart marinated beetroot.  You see, here, Wagyu beef and truffle makes sense. Whereas the world looks for overly oily, cholesterol-bomb Wagyu steaks and burgers, the Japanese eat their fatty beef this way — thinly sliced, lightly grilled or raw ... savoring the flavors of the meat. In this dish it was orchestrated in such a way that nothing overpowered the other, a melodic overture to a symphonic lunch.

Chef Sam Linder is at the helm of Old Manila for a year.

The agnolotti were pillows of perfection. Islands of al dente fresh noodles that gave way to a soft veal cheek center, swimming in a happy sea of sage butter, as little braised leeks looking like boats on a shore bumping against the edges of the pasta ... a gentle rain of fresh truffles ... the after-scent of the downpour, instead of fresh and clean, heady and musky. The French Vouvray, the rainbow after the shower. Palate-cleansing, appetite-whetting ... a pairing that works so well you could eat 10 plates and 10 glasses more and still continue to fall in love with this lush gastronomic ecosystem.

I had the duck breast, which was nice and tender, the risotto pleasant and public-pleasing, but truth be told, I wish I had those 10 more plates of pasta. As the meal came to a close, the nostalgia of the agnolotti was overturned by the caramelized goat’s cheese with truffle honey. Perfect for someone who loves cheese and always has to choose between the cheese platter or dessert, the two-fer combination was tart, tangy, savory and sweet, overall white truffle-y, and went so incredibly well with the Gewurztraminer. I was deep in conversation with the chef about the local food scene and had to literally pause to recognize the outstanding success of the wine pairing.

As the truffles came out during coffee, while I was reminded of my nose crash, I also pondered the fate of fine dining in the Philippines. Is there a place for fine silverware, starched tablecloths, perfect wait service, impeccable ingredients and a true-blue sommelier? While it may not be my choice for Monday night comfort food, there is a need to get dressed up and feel special. To indulge in a small moment of culinary pampering, to build fond food memories, to pay homage to the crafty hands that take pride in making teeny-tiny soft poached quail eggs… if this and the truffles aren’t reason enough, then go hungry for gossip and enjoy an amazing meal while you witness a marriage proposal, overhear political conspiracy or even surprise a few secret lovers. Sounds like fun, doesn’t it?

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Old Manila is located at The Peninsula Manila hotel. Call 887-2888 or e-mail diningpmn@peninsula.com.