The maestro of Cadiz

Dining in Spain is a very delightful and affordable adventure, at least compared to its northern neighbor, France. One can try many of its delectable offerings even if dining alone, just like having yamcha in a Chinese teahouse. I’m talking about the dishes that come in little servings called tapas, that delicious bar chow. Tapas are typically displayed on top of bar counters where diners point to which one they like, in the same way we order in our own turo-turo or carinderia.  

Those irresistible, mouthwatering delicacies are no different from appetizers, small servings of food eaten as a prelude to a meal, or perhaps the meal itself. Though there are many kinds of tapas called by different names, all are variations on the same theme. A tapa can refer to a small serving of a dish traditionally served in a cazuelita (small earthenware) like gambas al ajillo, callos, calamares, tortilla Española, boquerones (anchovy fillets pickled in vinegar and garlic, quite similar to our kinilaw), champiñon a la plancha, patatas

bravas, etc. A racion is a larger portion of a tapa meant for sharing or a meal in itself. Montaditos are literally any topping mounted on a slice of crusty bread. Pinchos, or pintxos in Basque, are pickled items like olives, onions, peppers, chilies, anchovies, etc., placed on toothpicks, while banderillas are more elaborate cooked dishes placed on skewers, named after the bullfighter’s implement to prick bulls. Pulguitas are small bread rolls, split and filled like a sandwich. Of course, let’s not forget plates of sliced jamón ibérico (acorn-fed free-range black Iberian pig), jamón serrano (ham from farmed white pig), chorizos, morcilla (blood sausage), queso manchego, croquetas, pan con tomate, or simply almonds and olives.

Being an integral part of the Spanish lifestyle, the tapas bar is the focal point of every community. Going for a tapeo is a way of life and of socializing. Locals normally do not eat tapas at home. It is a separate dining experience not meant to replace a meal. Before the cena or evening meal (starting at 10 p.m.), everyone heads to his or her favorite bar for a drink and a tapa or two, and of course, conversation. The bar often serves as a de facto living/dining room: a place to eat, unwind, meet friends, watch the news or soccer on TV, or have a quiet drink; a morsel here and there to go with a glass of sherry, beer or wine, and then on to the next bar. It is the art of eating while standing.

On the home front, this lifestyle hasn’t quite found its way into the Pinoy psyche, but slowly it is fast creeping into the metropolitan scene. One such establishment that serves arguably the best of Iberian specialties is Terry’s Bistro on Pasong Tamo Extension, Makati. It started as a casual dining space serving gourmet sandwiches but has transformed into a fully operational fine-dining restaurant since 2003. Terry’s Bistro prides itself on its expertise in the art of food and wine pairing. After all, its chef-patron, Juan Carlos de Terry, has a doctorate in oenology, not to mention his encyclopedic knowledge of food and its history.

Its tienda, Terry Selection Gourmet Store on the ground floor, is a veritable treasure vault of culinary gems, offering a diverse selection of high-quality products from Spain like jamónes, chorizos, quesos, bacalao, turrones, vinos, cookware, as well as other food items and wines from other European counties. It’s at the top of my list whenever my Spanish sundries run low. 

Coincidentally, on a very recent visit to Terry Selection, a tapas festival was ongoing at Terry’s Bistro. This whole month of October, the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade and Fuego Hotels has organized a month-long Spanish food festival called “Flavors of Spain.” This is the ninth year that this gastronomic event is being held to promote the inimitable Spanish tapeo lifestyle, highlighting its popular delicacies known the world over.

Terry is one of six select Spanish establishments to come up with a special tapas menu for the festival. For his special offerings, el señor Juan Carlos de Terry came out with a tantalizingly original lineup of pinchos and tapas. Our small group was initially served with raciones of two kinds of the much-coveted crown jewel of Spanish cuisine: jamón iberico and jamón presa iberica. Though both are made from acorn-fed black Iberian pigs, the former is made with the legs (the translucent thin slices have a strip of melt-in-the-mouth fat attached to the meat), while the latter is made with the shoulder, or batok (marbled fat is evenly distributed within the meat). A fruity white wine, Montespina Verdejo Joven 2010 from the Rueda region, and a clean and tapa-friendly red Marques de Caceres Crianza 2007 from Rioja, came free flowing.

The menu presented us for this degustacion listed only six dishes, but four additional sorpresas came unannounced, to the delight of the group. All 10 were served in well-paced succession, with chef De Terry having time to explain each dish, and poor me still had time to photograph them. I’m not complaining, though, as I literally had my tapas and ate them, too (wink, wink).

We eagerly anticipated and half-guessed what was next up the maestro’s sleeves. Though several turned out familiar in taste due to the use of Spanish staples like olive oil, chorizos and jamónes, they are nevertheless very innovative in combination, robust in flavor, refreshing and artful in presentation. Their preparation ran the gamut of the traditional and modern techniques in Spanish cuisine, from pickling, preserving, sautéing, deep-frying, emulsifying, long hours of simmering and stewing, etc., and with masterful sleight of hand, the man from Cadiz titillated our palates with a play of textures, tastes, smells and looks. Passion spells all the difference.

Don’t miss Flavors of Spain this whole month of October at Terry’s Bistro.

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Terry’s Bistro is located in Bldg. B, Karivin Plaza, 2316 Chino Roces Avenue Extension (formerly Pasong Tamo Ext.), Makati City, tel. 844-1816.