How to have a 'tapeo' without going to Madrid

Last January, my gastronomic calendar started with a very big bang when I attended the three-day food conference Madrid Fusion held in the Spanish capital, sponsored by the Spain Tourist Board.

I had close encounters with stellar culinary titans led by the world’s numero uno, Spanish chef Ferran Adria of El Bulli (where he first announced its closing to transform it into a school), “New Basque Cuisine” chef Juan Mari Arzak from San Sebastian, Spanish chef Sergi Arola of La Broche (who was once a guest chef at the InterContinental Manila more than a decade ago), Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini, author Jeffrey Steingarten, Zagat Guide founders Tim and Nina Zagat, and Singaporean Makansutra guru KF Seetoh, among others.

Included in my itinerary was a sort of tapeo marathon, Madrid’s almost cult practice of tapas bar hopping. In the land of Don Quixote, it is chasing after those wonderful little dishes called tapas that is elevated into an art and national sport. It was a mouthwatering experience, to say the least. Even months after that unforgettable trip, I often drool just thinking about the escapade.

Fortunately for us, there is quite a strong Spanish presence here in Manila, not only with its citizens residing here but also the availability of Spanish food products and restaurants dotting the metropolis. Attesting to this are my darleng Mary Ann’s friends from Hong Kong, who travel all the way to Manila whenever they get a craving for Iberian specialties. Truly, no other Asian country can claim having such a presence.

This October, the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade and Fuego Hotels have organized a month-long Spanish food festival, aptly called “Flavors of Spain.” This is the ninth year that this gastronomic event is held to promote the inimitable Spanish tapeo lifestyle, highlighting its popular delicacies known the world over. It will be offered in the following restaurants: Terry´s Selection, Tapella by Gaudí, El Cirkulo, Barcino Wine Resto Bar, Wine Depot and all the restaurants of Fuego Hotels, namely 7 Stones (Boracay), Club Punta Fuego and Pearl Farm Beach Resort in Davao. Each establishment will specially prepare a set of tapas for the festival using Spanish products, naturalmente.

One can just imagine our excitement when we received an invite to try these mini dishes at Tapella by Gaudí at Greenbelt 5 in Makati. This was to be the first of many tapas-tasting nights. Yes, one can have a veritable tapeo marathon right here in our front yard.

In 2001, chef Alexandra Got Pradera opened a modern Spanish restaurant called Gaudi on Jupiter St., Makati, together with her husband and sister-in-law. It has since branched out to Greenbelt 3 and Serendra at Bonifacio Global City, gaining both a strong local and international following, and her latest addition Tapella by Gaudí at Greenbelt 5 opened in 2009.

Xandra, as friends and family fondly call her, is a native of San Sebastian, right smack in the heart of the Basque region, considered the culinary capital of Spain. She recalls that at an early age she and her brother would help their parents entertain at home. They would walk over to a nearby restaurant owned by their parents’ friends to pick up some pre-ordered food. That same neighborhood restaurant would become the world-renowned three-Michelin-star restaurant Arzak, currently run by two of owner-chef Juan Mari Arzak’s children.

Chef Xandra’s father, who worked for Tabacalera, was later reassigned to the Philippines, and took the whole family. It was here that Xandra learned from her father the fine art of preparing paellas. When she married Francisco Cacho, they returned to Spain, where they had two daughters and lived for 20 years. Her husband was in the real estate and computer businesses, while she set up and operated a café-restaurant. She trained under chef Ignacio Muguruza, a very successful and well-known Basque chef who owns and runs a very popular restaurant and inn. Under Ignacio’s watchful eye, Xandra honed her culinary skills.

“I visit my mentor, Ignacio, at least once a year,” she says. “I brush up on the latest trends and techniques of Spanish cuisine which I feel are very important because Spanish cuisine is very dynamic and constantly evolving. I just don’t want to miss out on anything,” she adds with conviction.

For her Flavors of Spain special tapas offerings, chef Xandra came out with gazpacho de sandia con un toque de menta (watermelon cold soup with goat cheese ball); champi tamboril (champignon mushrooms cooked in onions and red wine on bread); chorizo con su tortilla (Spanish chorizo omelet); cojonudos (Serrano ham with quail egg and peppers); and calamares Bulli (fried squid ring with squid ink batter, an original recipe by Ferran Adria of El Bulli).

Though Gaudi restaurant has established quite a strong following with Spanish expats and local diners pining for Spanish cuisine, it’s the chuleton that is the runaway bestseller. Xandra says with pride that she’s perhaps the biggest buyer of Australian Angus beef, ordering some 25,000 kilos per year. She’s been receiving certificates from the supplier to attest to this for the past several years.

A diner is made to choose one of different sizes of aged Angus beef, the minimum size being 600 grams (some cuts can weigh up to a kilo). This is then grilled whole in the kitchen and then sliced and placed on a terracotta plate. This plate is set on top of a specially made steel stand heated by a small flame. Only coarse sea salt is sprinkled on the steak, and the cooking is finished on the table, keeping the steak hot till the last bite. Tapella’s gambas al ajillo also shouldn’t be missed, as well as the paella Manchego. To cap one’s meal, there’s a good selection of desserts to choose from.

Don’t miss Flavors of Spain for the whole month of October in the select Spanish restaurants mentioned above. It’s a vicarious way of having your tapeo without having to travel all the way to Madrid.