Gustatory gratification at The Cuisinier Brasserie

Sometimes, simplicity can only be achieved through hard work and an inherent sense of sophistication. This is particularly true in the case of onion soup or soupe à l’oignon. Starting with a process where onions are slowly caramelized in butter to bring out their intrinsic sweetness, preparing onion soup can take many hours of careful watching.

“The best kind of onion soup is the simplest kind,” the American short story writer Ambrose Bierce once said. But do not be deceived. Appearances can be deceiving and what can look simple may actually entail a long-drawn-out process.

It is clear from the perfectly caramelized onions of the soup a l’oignon (P190) that there were no shortcuts; no rush in the kitchen. One breaks through the melted cheese topping to get through to the melt-in-the-mouth onions and a rich beef broth fortified by sherry and red wine. It was satisfying enough to stop right there to savor the rich and hearty soup. But we were at The Cuisinier Brasserie to sample more of the food. Besides, the items in the French-Mediterranean menu proved too tempting to resist.

Cassoulet de tripe — a puff pastry-covered dish consisting of tender morsels of sautéed ox-tripe cooked in a delicious cream-based sauce.

The usual antipasto misto (P595), a dish of cheeses, Parma ham, olives and fruit that is meant for sharing; or a choice of prosciutto en melon (P260) with small skewers of cantaloupe and shrimp with prosciutto and arugula, would have been the healthful choice. Instead, we decided on a cassoulet de tripe (P220) — a puff-pastry covered dish consisting of tender morsels of sautéed ox-tripe cooked in a delicious cream-based sauce. This was a “calorific” choice, true. But we would have it no other way. Past restaurant forays have taught us that the manner of treatment of ordinary and humble tripe is one good gauge of how a restaurant deals with more “premium” ingredients. And at The Cuisinier Brasserie the premise was proven correct once more. But then again, this is getting ahead of the food review.

Salmon tournedos is a delicious fillet of salmon topped with velvety foie gras, a fat, fresh-tasting oyster that is surrounded by a lovely apple-fig compote.

Carnivores like us will always tend to gravitate towards the meaty offerings and can never resist. This time, there was a hefty serving of boeuf bourguignon (720) a classic French dish that will also forever be associated in our minds with cooking icon Julia Child. But while Julia showed the world that one could cook this dish like a French chef, we know firsthand that preparation needs a considerable amount of time and patience. The restaurant’s version of chuck eye-roll Angus beef braised in Bordeaux wine that is served with steamed potatoes and croutons, is a substantial and delicious choice good enough for two.

Of course, we also tried the osso buco (P450.) The beef shank was stewed to tender perfection so that the meat was practically falling off the bone. We used bread to soak up the rich, delicious marrow, and when that was gone, spooned the lip-smacking remainder directly into our mouths. Such sinful bliss! The delicious parmigiana risotto siding almost became an afterthought.

Classical simplicity: French onion soup cooked without shortcuts.

We were happy with our meal and took time to scan the menu yet again. By then, another visit was already a certainty. Among the items to try next time are lengua estofada, (P445) braised ox tongue cooked in tomato and red wine, mushroom sauce and black olives; fillet de boeuf Wellington (P880) or fillet of beef stuffed with mushroom duxelle  (a mixture made from mushrooms, onions and shallots sautéed in butter); and pave d’ aloyau (P1250), a 250g grilled Angus sirloin steak served with potato puree and demi glace. For bigger groups of eight to 10 diners, cochinillo or an entire roast suckling pig can be an alternative; and there is a Kid’s Menu of easy-to-eat favorites where adults who do not like big portions can choose their meal. For quick snacks there are pizzas, cakes and other desserts.

However, the surprise of this particular visit was the fish dish that we tried as a concession to “healthier dining.” Salmon tournedos (P775) turned out to be a delicious fillet of salmon topped with velvety foie gras and a fat, fresh-tasting oyster. This was surrounded by a lovely apple-fig compote that we quickly cleaned off the plate.

Perfect meal ender: Overall, The Cuisinier Brasserie is a great restaurant find on this side of Quezon City.

Overall, The Cuisinier Brasserie is a great restaurant find on this side of Quezon City. The prices are not exorbitant, parking facilities are adequate, and there is a good wine selection. Best of all, the enthusiastic young owners are there to see to it that the food is great.

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The Cuisinier Brasserie is at 102 Timog Avenue, Quezon City (across the Caltex station near GMA-7). Call 426-5872 and 586-8798 or 0917-8282433 for inquiries and reservations.