A yummy political carnival
MANILA, Philippines - Politics is the name of the game. As election time draws near and campaign sorties turn more frenzied, it is inevitable that Filipinos become even more obsessed with politics. The mania has permeated practically all facets of daily living, so that it feels like we are caught up in a maelstrom; uncertain of how we will survive. At best, life is at a standstill because of politics. And stuck in a three-hour traffic jam caused by another rally, we worried that we would be too late to attend an appointment for a 10-course dinner prepared by students of the International Institute of Culinary Arts (IICA) of the La Consolacion College in Manila.
“You can’t build in a vacuum,” says IICA culinary coordinator chef Benedicto “Ben” Bernardo. This applies in both the culinary field and daily living, so that students of La Consolacion College cannot help but know their politics. Their Mendiola campus, after all, is just a stone’s throw from Malacañang, the Philippines’ seat of power. And precisely because they are in the middle of this milieu, culinary students thought it fitting to prepare a politically-themed full-course meal.
We started with “Potage for Noynoy,” deconstructed chicken chowder served in portions consisting of chicken consommé, mirepoix croquettes and creamed foam of corn and cream of chowder. Deconstruction is actually a literary term introduced by French philosopher Jacques Derrida where meaning is found by means of undoing the whole and understanding the foundations of language. In the case of our soup, the various elements were served in three separate portions, to be savored separately. We found that deconstruction was an appropriate way to serve a soup named after presidential aspirant Noynoy Aquino. His campaign spiel, after all, emphasizes that he is the sum of his upbringing. Detractors will say that he has no substance, no achievement of his own; ergo, just “foam.” But supporters claim that a solid foundation consisting of a martyr for a father and a mother with unassailable character make him the ideal “chicken soup” to bring comfort to an ailing nation.
The fish or poisson dish was called “Villar’s Single Seared Salmon Tranche Au Fromage Gratinee” and, at the most basic, we understood why the dish was named after presidential contender Manny Villar. Apart from the fact that salmon is orange and the same color adopted by Villar’s party, his campaign material also tells us that his mother was also a once-upon-a-time fish vendor. The single seared salmon tranche (French for “slice”) was topped with gratinated cheese, and served with truffled avocado, roasted bell pepper, salsa oil and tomato water. The butter sauce or beurre blanc was flavored with Chartreuse, a sweet French liqueur flavored with herbs and Sambuca, a clear anise-flavored semi-sweet Italian liqueur. The fish course was also accompanied by a delicious glass of sparkling Chardonnay. This was definitely not the usual mahirap fare. But for many voters who perceive themselves as poor, Villar stands as an inspiration that they, too, can succeed just as spectacularly someday. Hindi bawal mangarap kahit mahirap.
“Poulet (or chicken) for Congressional GMA” was adobo soufflé, adobo aspic, pâté-stuffed chicken lollipop in candy coat and chicken liquid croquettes sauced with garlic-honey soy balsamic reduction. “What will she run for next? Barangay captain?” we recall the irrepressible archbishop Oscar Sison exclaiming in a news show when the president first announced her decision to run for a congressional seat. But it seems to be a sure win and “chicken feed” is one expression to denote that something that can be achieved very easily. The chicken was served with Gewurtztraminer, a deliciously dry white wine made of grapes from France’s Alsace region. And indeed, the president’s firm, dry, no-nonsense manner can be refreshing after we watch all the public sycophants pull out all the stops to remain popular.
Oeuf is French for egg. We live in confusing times where so many politicians are vying for a stable seat in the political egg tray. Because of this, the public has been witness to proverbial rotten-egg throwing bouts among political foes who want to undermine each other. Our meal’s “Egg Concerto Number Five in Four Opuses” was omelet empanada, egg flan with black caviar, boiled quail egg on Maldon and Himalayan pink salt. Why “number five?” Because there are five presidential candidates who are in serious contention. Who are the odd men out? Take your pick.
The pork dish was named “Loren’s Secret Crush on Mar with Live Cinnamon Smoke” and all were amused because we know that there is no love lost between vice-presidential contenders Loren Legarda and Mar Roxas. The course featured Yukatan reduction stewed pork tenderloin, jamon Serrano-wrapped liempo, caramelized chicharon, pili nuts, oven-dried corn kernels and cotton candy. This is the course that best exemplifies the political carnival of our time where unlikely alliances are made. The jamon embraced the liempo, combining colors to create a weird spectrum. Candidates and their so-called platforms can be eye-catching like the pink cotton candy in the dish, until you realize that they consist of nothing but spun sugar and air. The public needs something really potent to take it all in. Thank goodness, the beverage that came with this course was a long shot of strong whiskey.
“Erap’s Yakult Sorbet for President” was Yakult sorbet on strawberry-water aspic and it tasted delicious. Perhaps, “Erap para sa mahirap” continues to have a significant following because the masses feel that he is accessible to them. Simpleng tao lang, just as the main ingredient of the sorbet was simply the Yakult drink. “Served on his own,” our tasting menu quipped, and no alcoholic drinks accompanied the sorbet that is named after the man who was once maligned for his expensive tastes in wine and other things.
Where’s the beef? In the French-sounding menu, this is beouf and the course is called “The Great Eternal Present.” Basically, it is US Black Angus rib-eye grilled medium rare and served with blanched snow peas and an outstanding garlic ube mash and truffled coffee demiglace (called “Gregorio Nunez and Emmanuelle Morales”). The menu said “mediocre presidential steak of US Black Angus” but there was nothing mediocre about this course. This, in fact, was the most excellent of the tasting menu. So it could be said that the message is this: Don’t believe everything that is dished out in public speech. A goblet tannin-rich Cabernet Sauvignon accompanied the substantial steak.
Salads are green and, expectedly, the salad course was called “Gibo and the Colors of the Presidency.” What was unusual was that the salad came towards the end of the meal. Was this because of the surveys that say Gilbert Cojuangco is trailing behind in the presidential race? Nevertheless, the greens with watermelon, cantaloupe, peaches, macadamia nuts, port wine marinated Tasmanian bleu cheese and mango caviar was an interesting and tasty combination.
The heading for dessert was “The Greatest Philippine Abstract of Democracy” and included items such as The Chef’s Nancy Castiliogne cake (Is there a story behind the name?); Hacienda Luisita rice-coated vanilla ice cream fried with Grand Marnier; dark cocoa fettucine with crème ala carte; Cavite syndicate strawberries and nitrogen blasted Stick-O cigarettes. It is a merry mix of ingredients and cooking methods. Similarly our merry mix of public figures makes our lives as Filipinos very interesting. A sweet, golden Muscatel wine was like how most Filipinos are — mellow.
The end of the meal was truffles: ube with white ganache, bitter bonbons coated with dessicated coconuts, cocoa chili-coated and pistachio-cayenne. The assortment was called “Juan Luna’s Wife in Four Interpretations,” and if you know your history and the fact that Juan Luna shot his wife, you will appreciate that this signaled the end of the meal.
Where were Brother Eddie Villanueva, Richard Gordon and Bayani Fernando throughout the political food-fest? Their fans would say that Brother Eddie left after saying grace, while the efficient transformers were busy at work cleaning up everyone’s mess in the kitchen.
But seriously, perhaps the voting public could glean a thing or two from this political carnival of a meal. The lesson is this: Chew the political cud fed to you by all candidates slowly, thoroughly and thoughtfully. You are what you eat. Vote wisely.
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For information about La Consolacion College Manila call the Center for Admission and Relations at 313-0515 or 736-0235 local 150. Or e-mail lccm_admissions@yahoo.com.
