100% certified Greek freak

Greek blood runs through the veins of chef and restaurateur Robby Goco, and his restaurant Cyma is a testament to that. Robby has spent time immersing himself in Greek lifestyle to document the country’s formidable culinary traditions. Captivated by the glories of local and regional Greek cooking, his culinary expedition took him to the country’s islands, cities, mountains, and villages, talking to cooks, bakers, fisherman, farmers, and cheese makers. It is no wonder that unfamiliar Greek terms just glide down his tongue so easily, as if he was a native son. He brings his experience and culinary genius to Cyma Greek Taverna.

Why Greek? "Well, why not?" he responds with a chuckle. He says that although continents apart, there are lots of things common to Filipino and Greek cuisine. Our culture has a love for festive celebrations, big family gatherings, and a generous spread on the banquet table with more than enough food for everyone to last a season should they decide to hibernate afterwards. And if by accident something breaks on a special occasion, it is believed that good luck will follow. Well, the Greeks certainly know how to party. Breaking plates and dancing till the wee hours of the morning are commonplace among young and old. And no Greek celebration would be complete without heaps of mouthwatering food.

Shopping at the Edsa Shangri-La Mall towards noon made me hungry, and led me to the sixth floor foodie strip, which does brisk business even on a weekday. And what was clearly getting most of the share was the pleasant looking diner towards the end of the trail. There I spotted Cyma, a comfy looking resto serving Greek food. As I drew nearer, there were two rows of chairs occupied by customers waiting to be ushered in as soon as a table is vacated. Despite wrestling with the dictates of a grumbling belly, I chose reason, and just like the rest in line, I patiently sat and waited for my turn. After all, sweet rewards come to those who wait.

Mine came in the form of Roca Insalata, or a salad of arugula, lettuce and yummy candied walnuts served with shaved Parmesan cheese and vinaigrette. The solo is plenty (even for two!). However, on second thought, since it was utterly divine, it looked like I would be able to devour this one real easy. And that was just for starters. For the ultimate umami experience, the menu suggests I have this with blue cheese.

Amid my culinary adventure, Robby Goco, head chef and co-owner of Cyma, approached me and asked about my order. A very personable hands-on individual, he oftentimes solicits feedback from guests. I had the opportunity to guest him in my weekly cooking program some time back, and he was such a joy to work with.

He joined me for a while and ordered for me some of the house specialties, like spinach and artichoke fondue for appetizer, a winning combination of melting cheese, sliced sun-dried tomatoes and feta cheese served with pita bread. Of course, Greek cuisine wouldn’t be Greek without moussaka, the national dish. Cyma has a vegetarian version of it, and that’s what I took. Just imagine the different textures of tofu, potatoes, green lentils and eggplant coming together in just one bite. Indescribable!

Robby offered an original creation, Cyma roasted crabs. How could I refuse ? Roasted mangrove crabs heaped with endless garlic, black pepper and EVOO (extra virgin olive oil), which is a staple ingredient in every Greek kitchen. This was served with garlic pasta and a lemon spirit. Once again, the serving was hefty for just one person. And once again, I surprised myself by devouring the entire dish. To cleanse the palate, he offered the most delicate tasting sorbet, a cheesecake flavored one, another Cyma signature recipe.

Robby, the brains behind the famous Mexican watering hole Tequila Joe’s, strikes once more with Cyma Greek Taverna. He says Greek cuisine is on the rise as one of the 10 top cuisines of the world in a recent Zagat survey. He is happy that the essence of Greek food is now more recognized around the world: the traditional ingredients of olive oil, vegetables, yogurt, honey, grilled fish, meats and cheese, and the impressive selection of dishes, which define the true heritage of Greece. Another reason for its popularity is the vast amount of scientific data suggesting that the region’s diet can contribute to longer life spans. The staples of the Greek kitchen, namely olive oil, vegetables, wild greens, fruit and legumes, help prevent heart disease and other diseases. And meats, which are typically grilled, boiled or baked, promote a healthier and more tasteful lifestyle. Gaze around the restaurant and you can be sure to find the figure-conscious, from models to athletes, to celebrities. Of course, the dishes are always the scene-stealers here.

Eating among the Greeks is a major social occasion, and Robby discovered this pretty easily as he posed as a Filipino researcher and reporter looking for the link and similarities between the two cuisines. During his stay, he was never invited into a Greek home without being treated to a feast.

Robby brims with love and knowledge on the subject. Greek cuisine has four secrets: good fresh ingredients; the judicious use of herbs and spices; the famous Greek olive oil; and its basic simplicity.

Greek olive oil merits a special mention. Present in almost all Greek dishes and in most of them in abundance, it is of excellent quality and very good for the health. Robby is surprised to discover that some first-time customers come to his restaurant upon the recommendation of their doctors. On their second visit, it’s their craving that brings them back.

Another thing he noted was the familiar dishes Greek and Filipino cooking share. For instance, kotopoulo lemonato is Greek for chicken adobo, while the kotopoulo augelemono is a Greek version of the chicken congee, which is a tangy and delightful cross between paella and lugao. He recommends this soup as the perfect cure for a hangover.

For the unitiated, Cyma’s menu proves to be very helpful. Colorful and attractive, each dish is described in detail, and there are icons to serve as guide. A parsley icon indicates that it is a vegetarian dish, while a heart symbol with an olive sprig beneath it denotes that it’s healthy for you (good fat/good carb). A chef’s toque means that it is highly recommended, while the Greek flag tells you it is a classic Greek recipe. The waitstaff is also well versed with the menu, and eager to offer suggestions to make the dining experience of newbies worth every cent.

Cyma means "to flourish" in Greek, and that is Robby Goco’s vision for the resto. And flourish, indeed, it did. From its first branch in Boracay which opened in December 2005, a second Cyma sprung at the sixth floor of the Edsa Shangri-La Mall four months later. In December 2006, another baby Cyma was born at the plush Greenbelt 2 without much fanfare or hype.

What makes it such an instant hit is the fact that people just keep coming back with a craving for authentic Greek food. Regular patrons would patiently line up for their spot rather than move to the neighboring bistro. And word of mouth spreads like wildfire.

A test of authenticity? Greek nationals would compliment Cyma with return visits, giving Robby a pat on the back for research well done. They feel that the Greek government should acknowledge Robby for providing the real deal and promoting it.

Greece, famous for its archaeological sites such as the Parthenon or the sacred temple of Delphi, home of the first Olympics, birthplace of the world’s greatest thinkers like Homer, Plato, and Socrates. It has a cuisine rich in flavor, and now its numerous health benefits are accessible to everyone, with much thanks to Robby Goco, Greece’s unofficial adopted son. It’s a cause for celebration.