The succulence of the lambs
May 11, 2006 | 12:00am
Why serve lamb with white asparagus? Hyatt Regency Manila executive chef Hans-Martin Bracker counters, "Why not?" Just as there should be no limits to imagination and creativity, the usual food combinations and cooking techniques should not limit the chef in his art.
Bracker believes that cooking is not a fixed discipline. "I have no cooking philosophy," he smilingly avers. However, he admits that the basics are important and unchanging "because they form the foundation of the art of cooking." Furthermore, a solid base gives the chef the confidence to innovate, create new techniques and use new ingredients.
As executive chef of Hyatt Regency Manila, Bracker is in charge of the hotel’s daily kitchen operations. He is responsible for developing new recipes, upgrading the menu, and training and recruiting the kitchen staff. Other duties involve the planning of food and beverage promotions.
We were at Hyatt Regency Manila’s Café al Fresco for a preview of the hotel’s "Lamb and Asparagus Festival," which will be held from May 13 to June 13. For the festival, only the best lamb meat from animals that are less than a year old will be used. This is to ensure that the meat is succulent, tender and flavorful.
"Lamb is a very versatile meat," says chef Bracker, who has chosen white asparagus to balance the rich taste of the succulent meat. White asparagus has a nutty taste and crunchy texture. The vegetable has a milder flavor than green asparagus, and the vegetable is white because it is usually reburied as the stalk grows. This retards the development of chlorophyll that is responsible for the green color of plants.
The white asparagus is imported mostly from Germany because after over 200 years of cultivating it, the Germans have mastered the technique of growing white asparagus. The vegetable is planted in rounded rows, and no sunlight reaches the innermost stalks. Lacking sunlight and chlorophyll, the stalks remain white.
The menu on the day of our visit included lamb with asparagus-pear and arugula, which consisted of grilled lamb loin on top of marinated asparagus and pear salad, bedded on arugula leaves tossed in balsamic emulsion. As expected, the slices of meat were cooked just right – beautifully browned on the outside, while remaining tender and juicy inside. The vegetables were fresh and crisp and the balsamic dressing had the perfect sweet-sour piquancy to stimulate the taste buds. On its own, the entrée would have already sufficed as a delicious and satisfying meal.
However, a lamb consommé followed next. The double-clarified lamb broth had roulade of lamb, stuffed with pesto mousseline, green and white asparagus and cherry tomato. The rich stock smelled unmistakably of lamb and aficionados will probably savor the intensely flavored and strongly scented broth. On the other hand, the aroma may be too overpowering for those who are not used to eating lamb.
A main course of grilled rack of lamb with thyme served with buttered garden fresh white asparagus Parmesan, artichokes and risotto found its way to our tables and we wondered how we could manage to eat even more. By then, we were groaning with contentment, especially since the portions were very generous. However, we couldn’t resist tasting the dish. As expected, the meat was flavorful and succulent, the asparagus spears were nutty and crisp, and everything cooked to the perfect degree of doneness.
But could we possibly eat more? We looked uneasily at the dessert menu. We were going to try the William pear chocolate cream cake, which is Hyattt Regency Manila’s cake of the month for May; and a tiny orange crepe with caramelized asparagus.
We decided to go on with dessert. Was that a prudent decision? I think so. Aside from missing out on the rich chocolate cake, skipping dessert would have meant not trying the unusual asparagus crème brulée. I thoroughly enjoyed it and I wouldn’t mind going solely vegetarian if all my vegetables could be cooked that way!
Hyatt Regency Manila’s Lamb and Asparagus Festival runs from May 13 until June 13. For inquiries, call Hyatt Regency Manila at 833-1234.
Bracker believes that cooking is not a fixed discipline. "I have no cooking philosophy," he smilingly avers. However, he admits that the basics are important and unchanging "because they form the foundation of the art of cooking." Furthermore, a solid base gives the chef the confidence to innovate, create new techniques and use new ingredients.
As executive chef of Hyatt Regency Manila, Bracker is in charge of the hotel’s daily kitchen operations. He is responsible for developing new recipes, upgrading the menu, and training and recruiting the kitchen staff. Other duties involve the planning of food and beverage promotions.
We were at Hyatt Regency Manila’s Café al Fresco for a preview of the hotel’s "Lamb and Asparagus Festival," which will be held from May 13 to June 13. For the festival, only the best lamb meat from animals that are less than a year old will be used. This is to ensure that the meat is succulent, tender and flavorful.
"Lamb is a very versatile meat," says chef Bracker, who has chosen white asparagus to balance the rich taste of the succulent meat. White asparagus has a nutty taste and crunchy texture. The vegetable has a milder flavor than green asparagus, and the vegetable is white because it is usually reburied as the stalk grows. This retards the development of chlorophyll that is responsible for the green color of plants.
The white asparagus is imported mostly from Germany because after over 200 years of cultivating it, the Germans have mastered the technique of growing white asparagus. The vegetable is planted in rounded rows, and no sunlight reaches the innermost stalks. Lacking sunlight and chlorophyll, the stalks remain white.
The menu on the day of our visit included lamb with asparagus-pear and arugula, which consisted of grilled lamb loin on top of marinated asparagus and pear salad, bedded on arugula leaves tossed in balsamic emulsion. As expected, the slices of meat were cooked just right – beautifully browned on the outside, while remaining tender and juicy inside. The vegetables were fresh and crisp and the balsamic dressing had the perfect sweet-sour piquancy to stimulate the taste buds. On its own, the entrée would have already sufficed as a delicious and satisfying meal.
However, a lamb consommé followed next. The double-clarified lamb broth had roulade of lamb, stuffed with pesto mousseline, green and white asparagus and cherry tomato. The rich stock smelled unmistakably of lamb and aficionados will probably savor the intensely flavored and strongly scented broth. On the other hand, the aroma may be too overpowering for those who are not used to eating lamb.
A main course of grilled rack of lamb with thyme served with buttered garden fresh white asparagus Parmesan, artichokes and risotto found its way to our tables and we wondered how we could manage to eat even more. By then, we were groaning with contentment, especially since the portions were very generous. However, we couldn’t resist tasting the dish. As expected, the meat was flavorful and succulent, the asparagus spears were nutty and crisp, and everything cooked to the perfect degree of doneness.
But could we possibly eat more? We looked uneasily at the dessert menu. We were going to try the William pear chocolate cream cake, which is Hyattt Regency Manila’s cake of the month for May; and a tiny orange crepe with caramelized asparagus.
We decided to go on with dessert. Was that a prudent decision? I think so. Aside from missing out on the rich chocolate cake, skipping dessert would have meant not trying the unusual asparagus crème brulée. I thoroughly enjoyed it and I wouldn’t mind going solely vegetarian if all my vegetables could be cooked that way!
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