What’s cooking in Kitchen?

When Ricco Ocampo opened Kitchen in 2000 to deliver "home-cooked meals for everyone in a democratic setting," not everyone expected the setting to be quite so fashionable. And with prices ranging from P90 to about P200 for appetizers and rice meals, which often come in large servings, not everyone expected the food to be quite so appetizing either.

But the restaurant, defying trends that dictated either expensive boutique establishments or low-end fast food joints would flourish, opted to vie for a market that could be categorized in only one way: Gourmands with a healthy, unpretentious approach to dining. "We wanted something anti-status with no frills, a place where everyone shared a table," says owner Ricco Ocampo of the restaurant’s classless (Read: with no regard for social or economic classes) formula.

For an establishment with such proletariat leanings, the fashionable loft-space that is Kitchen, with its high, brick-lined walls, exotic, low-slung chandeliers and tasteful photographs dotting the wall, offers an inexpensive dining experience but in a chicly-wrapped package.

This no-frills approach to dining has created a menu that combines old-school Filipino food, with Spanish and Asian influences. The latest addition to the constantly-evolving menu is their take-out list, a growing segment of the menu which features sauces, dips, entrees and desserts.

Almost everything used in the restaurant is made in-house, due to Ricco’s strict standards when it comes to food. As a conscientious vegetarian – he doesn’t eat dairy or cheese – he makes sure that ingredients, like greens and fruits, are brought in fresh daily from impeccable sources. "I decided to become vegan because I wanted to be more pure when it comes to the food I eat," he explains, an attitude that is reflected in the way the food is prepared. No preservatives, MSG, iodized salt or white sugar is used in any of their dishes. Even their iced tea, which usually comes from premixed, supermarket-sourced, powder-based beverages, is made from scratch, brewed from tea leaves with different flavored waters, like pandan and mint, to add flavor.

Dulong (P160), under the sauce menu in the takeout section, is made in the restaurant where the chefs season the fish themselves. The tomato sauce (P60) is stewed with high-grade olive oil and herbs for hours to assure diners of a layered, rich sauce that’s not greasy or flat-tasting. Pesto (P150), made from ground basil and pine nuts, are thrown away after three days if not consumed immediately. "The leaves have a tendency to get dark after a couple of days," says Ricco. "When it gets to that point, it’s automatically chucked out."

The Caviar Pie (P1,200), one of the latest additions, consists of imported caviar slathered over layers of cream, white onions, chopped eggs, cream cheese and lots of herbs. Ricco’s cook has been creating this rather cake-like incarnation of the caviar-over-pancake dish for years. "We’ve been serving it at parties for years and everyone’s been asking, ‘Where is it available?’ We finally added it to our menu, and, now, we tell people, ‘You can order it from the restaurant." Aside from the caviar pie, other entrees include grilled salmon belly (P450), which includes a large serving of the scrumptiously fatty fish, and Sourbill (P160), duck cooked adobo-style with adobo rice and fried egg, good enough for two to three people.

Dessert, a must for a Kapampangan like Ricco, who grew up thinking rich sauces and incredibly flavorful dessert dishes were the norm, includes Grand Slam (P480), a large affair of layered creamy chocolate cake, topped with cream and chocolate shavings.

The takeout menu is available for people who are hosting dinners or parties at home and don’t want to bother with the hassle of cooking or booking a large catering party. "There’s no need for caterers," says Ricco, "when you can simply order meals here."

Operations manager Mary-ann Romero also adds, "If you bring a large platter, we can garnish any dish you order from the takeout menu. This diminishes the labor for a large party. Food is ready to serve, just like that."

The main menu also features new items. Caps and Rolls (P99), one of the few things vegans can ingest with no guilt-induced regrets after, is Ricco’s favorite. Made from peanuts, mushrooms, asparagus, celery and turnips, chopped to little bits, sautéed and then placed on pads of lettuce, it’s a roll-and-bite appetizer that comes with hoisin dipping sauce for extra flavor. Another is Head Master (P99), made from plump squid heads, dipped in batter then fried to a golden crisp, accompanied by two dipping sauces, a sweet vinegar dip with sliced cucumber and a spicy chili oil and vinegar mix that’s mild and flavorful.

Kitchen has managed to expertly meld its home-cooking approach with its high-fashion aspirations, creating a bohemian mix of good food, great décor and a low-key dining experience at a more than reasonable price. Their secret? "We offered food that we were already experts at." Many of the dishes served here have had their share of time on the dining table of the Ocampo family. "We try to stick to what we do well," Ricco explains. "And that means food we’ve been eating – and cooking – for years."

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Kitchen is located at Greenbelt 3, with tel. no. 757-4565, and at the second floor of Rodeo Drive, Robinsons Galleria, with tel. no. 637-8025.