An authentic taste of Italy in the Walled City

If a restaurant is named after the genius that fathered the Italian pizza, one should expect that due respect be given to the creator.

True enough, Raffaele, one of the newest stars on the Italian cuisine scene, rose to the challenge and, in my taste, has passed with honors. Home to the most delectable, authentic wood-fired pizza creations, Raffaele has secured a spot in the local firmament as a worthy ambassador of Italian gourmet. To label it as a pizza parlor would be an injustice. I know; I have been there and will likely be back for more.

Located on the third floor of the charming Bayleaf Hotel, Raffaele (named after Raffaele Esposito, a 19th-century master pizzaoilo or pizza maker from Naples, Italy) has continually been praised since it opened two months ago. I found out why when I was invited to an informal gathering of food writers for lunch at this captivating trattoria.

Our host, the president and owner of the Lyceum of the Philippines and Bayleaf Hotel, gave us a glimpse into the 60-seater chic restaurant. The feel of the place was elegant yet comfy, spacious yet warm. Natural sunlight streamed through the glass ceiling and walls and gave us a panoramic view of Intramuros’ old-world, nostalgic charm. The romantic ambience indeed served as an ideal backdrop for the food.

Glancing at the special menu for the day, I realized that I should have come with my stomach empty. There were a lot of glorious offerings to be had and it would be a shame not to indulge in the hearty, gratifying menu.

Appetizers include Vongole Blanco (fresh clams in white-wine sauce), Gamberetti (white shrimps with garlic and chili), Lingua con Tonnato (grilled ox tongue with tuna mayonnaise), and Tuna Conserva (tuna with roasted tomatoes and grilled bread).

Salads include Caprese (roasted tomatoes with fresh mozzarella, basil, truffled lemon vinaigrette and aged balsamic) and Tritato (lettuce with roasted vegetables, salumi and creamy Caesar dressing).

Pizzas include the usual Quattro Formaggi, but there is also an unusual Porchetta pizza topped with roasted pork, ricotta cheese, and pistachios!

The mains feature Agnello, grilled lamb ribs with garlic potatoes, arugula and roasted tomatoes.

The lingua was melt-in-the-mouth sublime, just as chef Jose Santiago would want it. He said he wanted it to achieve a taste and texture similar to foie gras, and indeed, it came close to capturing that unique sensation of the ox tongue practically dissolving in my mouth like a stick of butter! A must-try!

Raffaele’s version of the ever-popular Pasta Bolognese is a hearty ragu composed of three kinds of meat: pork belly, lamb shoulder and oxtail.

Authenticity is at the core of the culinary program at Raffaele’s, with their pizza prepared in wood-burning ovens in the Neapolitan tradition, highlighting the distinct flavors imparted by the wood-burning ovens. I sighed as I took a chewy bite from a slice of their Quattro Formaggi — gloriously rich, gooey and indulgent.

However, I agree with Raffaele’s owner Bobby Laurel as to his favorite dish: The slow-cooked lamb in sous vide easily became my favorite as well. A true labor of love takes time and patience for a masterpiece to unfold. The lamb was actually marinated for over two hours, then slow-cooked using the sous vide technique, wherein the meat is sealed in airtight plastic bags in a water bath or temperature-controlled steam environment for longer than the normal cooking time; in this case for another eight hours. This procedure ensures that the inside is properly cooked without overcooking the outside and retains its moisture. Then it was baked inside the wood-fired oven. The result was worth the wait and effort; the taste, texture and juiciness were incomparable — perfection that left me wanting for more. The best I have tasted so far in Manila!

Of course, it goes without saying that good food is not great without wine, which encourages relaxed conversation and memorable social experiences. Raffaele has stocked up on the finest vintages from Italy. What’s more, Olivia Limpe-Aw, CEO of Destileria Limtuaco, takes pride in creating Raffaele’s special line of heritage cocktails, thrilling thirst quenchers that promise to heighten  dining pleasure.  I had a mango-ginger mojito. It was refreshing mix of tangy and minty with a local flair.

Some drinks like banana cream pie and mint choco ice cream were wickedly good desserts one can actually drink. These chillers can make for naughty-nice sweet endings, or maybe act as a prelude to more indulgent desserts from Raffaele’s pastry kitchen like Tiramisu con Chocolat, Dolci Al Cioccolato and Frutta con Ricotta.

I discovered that the Lyceum of the Philippines culinary institute’s students had a hand in combining their fresh experience, enthusiasm and passion behind the scenes as part of their internship program. Generally, if the kitchen is run by newbies in the industry, it would seem more like a playground or a lab where controversial experiments are conducted  rather than a tight ship that sails smoothly and efficiently. Surprisingly, it’s the students’ eagerness to work in the kitchen that has helped elevate the hotel’s stature. These hungry learners who take pride in their work share in the success of Raffaele, as well as sister restaurants such as 9 Spoons and Skydeck.

I call Bayleaf Hotel a five-star hotel with attitude. It dares take risks, and risk takers are the ones who usually succeed in their endeavors. Hence, the Laurel family (owners of Bayleaf Hotel and Lyceum University) has ambitious plans of expansion by building Bayleaf into a prestigious hotel chain.

Traditional Italian restaurants may conjure images of red-and-white checkered tablecloths, Chianti carafes, and red sauce-heavy plates. What one can expect from Raffaele’s is an authentic taste of Italy, enjoyed with a majestic view of Intramuros and making for a sophisticated dining experience.  

I found the service impeccable and courteous, the food creative yet classic and well-crafted.

Raffaele is a culinary testament to a talented team who developed the concept and menu: general manager Ed Vitug and chefs Jose and Carlo Santiago, who were tapped to oversee menu development.

For the moment all the worries of the world disappeared  and everything was perfectly all right! Overall it left me happy and content.