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Fashion steps forward? | Philstar.com
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Young Star

Fashion steps forward?

- Miguel Paolo Celestial -

In spite of the untoward arrest of a few models on Thursday night, nothing could have marred the creative energy coming from Philippine Fashion Week at Mall of Asia’s SMX show halls the three days I was there (Wednesday-Friday).  Well, almost. But even if for some shows one would find it hard to conjure up breathing, unpaid clients, the clothes that were good still managed to make the three days marginally worth it.

A variety of influences must have gone through the loom, from Filipino weaves to electric pleating and graphic-designed print. Angelo Estera’s chiffon and lace creations were quite something. Arielle Agasang’s lace, silk, and piña combinations, with delicate beadwork, produced inspiring ensembles. I never saw abaca as good as in midnight blue, embroidered by Jaki Peñalosa with tribal appliqués. Pier Lim’s funky mermaid and cat prints were also of note, cut and sewn with the Harajuku vibe. Of course, we’ll never do without the flashy and the synthetic, like Jerome Ang’s metallic blouses.

There were fun, innovative, and cheeky patterns. Brian Leyva came out with gray marbled dresses, while Jerome Ang explored his “Anatomie Insectae” butterly prints. Joel Escober obviously enjoyed his Ibiza/‘60s-inspired skirts.

There were pleats and Grecian dresses everywhere, and a prevalence of mutton sleeves and puffy skirts. Some done well, some ordinary, and many you’d be more than happy to forget. Julius Tarog showed some modern shapes, while simplicity did it for June Pugat’s Mucha-inspired dresses. Durian spikes, anyone?

Not to be outshined, the menswear collections presented some new and interesting pieces. Besides the reliable checks and houndstooths, classic cardigans, blousons, and suits put in some twists. Suits went funky with polka dots, shirts with ribbon-stripes shirts, and jackets in fish prints. And don’t forget pink pleated shirts and pink trouser patches.

Mixed with the established designers were a few experimenters. Tina Daniac brought in youthful rebellion with black sequins, metal, lace, and graphic prints.

But can anything really beat consistency and the well-executed theme? A show like that could rivet you to your seat. Just like Edwin Tan’s, which was all about understatement, eclecticism, and elegance.

Best accessories came from Jaki Peñalosa and the most appropriate music mix from Tinia Daniac. The worst? Well, more than 10 are equally placed. One could not sweat out the details enough.

ANATOMIE INSECTAE

ANGELO ESTERA

ARIELLE AGASANG

BRIAN LEYVA

EDWIN TAN

JAKI PE

JEROME ANG

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