Baguio’s ghosts
October 28, 2005 | 12:00am
For many who live in Metro Manila, a good way to take a breather from all the heat, pollution and chaos of the metropolis is to take a six-hour car drive up to the summer capital of the Philippines, Baguio City. Nestled high in the mountains of the Benguet Province, Baguio City has undergone some recent industrial changes over the years and has moved from its quiet-mountain-town status to a bustling center of business. Some things, however, haven’t changed.
The drive up is always a decision made on driver preference, as there are three different ways to get to Baguio from the base of the mountain. The first is Naguilian Road, a rather boring route made especially for people who would rather sleep throughout the drive. Second is the more scenic and nicely paved Marcos Highway. On clear days it offers travelers both a panoramic view of the China Sea in the lowlands as well as the majestic profiles of the mountains up ahead. Last is Kennon Road, a twisty, winding turn all the way up – a fun drive for those who enjoy driving. Kennon Road also offers a view of the many picturesque waterfalls draining into the Bued River in the valley below. At a certain altitude, with the windows down and the air conditioning switched off, Baguio makes its presence known.
The Baguio air, although not as crisp as it once was, still breathes life back into tired lungs. The mountain weather delivers a nice chilly bite, urging individuals to wear sweaters, get under thick covers and cuddle with someone special. Because of the cold, rest is incredibly relaxing, as one could sleep like a rock and wake up feeling refreshed and brand new. The outdoors allows one to get in touch with Mother Nature and a hike in the Sto. Tomas Mountain or a horseback ride around one of the many trails works wonders in calming the senses. Almost all the local cafés offer refills for those that enjoy a nice hot cup of coffee or chocolate and good company. And for those interested in the supernatural, there are the ghosts.
If you believe in paranormal mumbo-jumbo, ghosts make up a good majority of the total population of Baguio. There are the historical ghosts from the city’s stint as a WWII base for both the Americans and Japanese, but more interesting are the ghosts that live in urban myth and children’s stories. While some of these may sound like total hogwash and are successful only because of an emphatic delivery, some are seriously pondered over. The ratio of eyewitness accounts to stories of obvious drunken fabrication is fairly equal.
Two of Baguio’s most famous ghosts live in the city’s center of paranormal activity, the stretch of Loakan Road that leads to the Philippine Military Academy and further away, the Philex Mines. At night, the combined effect of trees, fog, shadows, darkness and two WWII cemeteries make the place really eerie. This is the home of the infamous White Lady of Loakan who walks on the roadside and hails you down as you drive by. No one really picks up strange ladies in the dead of night, so you drive on; but if you check your rear-view mirror, you might see her seated in the back seat of your vehicle hitching a ride.
The second spirit in Loakan lived in an enormous pine tree that grew right smack in the middle of the road. The tree was a road hazard and it claimed the lives of drunken drivers and motorists blinded by the fog, but for so many years, no one wanted to uproot it or cut it down. Local myth said that the tree’s spirit-dweller claimed the souls of those who attempted to remove it.
At the end of Loakan is the Baguio City Airport, where some new ghosts may now live. Imprudent guys drag-raced the stretch of the runway, didn’t brake on time, ran out of road, and found themselves going straight down into a gorge. More famous on this runway, however, is the ghost of a young boy who got sliced by propellers while riding his bike on the runway. The pilot, who didn’t see the boy, just landed the plane and ended up slashing the kid to pieces. Late at night, the watchman, and witness to the gruesome event, still hears the ring-ring of that little boy’s bicycle.
On the other side of Loakan is South Drive; prime property in Baguio, a favorite course for student drivers, and the location of the old Hyatt Terraces Hotel. During the 1990 earthquake that shook Baguio to pieces, the building collapsed taking many of its patrons with it. Although many were rescued, many also perished. Some were trapped deep in the rubble and died there. Both residents and passersby claim to have heard the unmistakable screams for help coming from inside the abandoned compound.
Baguio has established itself as a haven for those who crave relaxation. The cold temperature makes it conducive for just chilling out. On the side, however, its reputation for being a paranormal hotspot is bolstered by the presence of old buildings, historic spots and nippy air. Cold, after all, is often associated with ghosts and the supernatural. As one leaves the mountain city, that last blast of chilly mountain air that hits you may just be Baguio’s ghosts saying goodbye.
The drive up is always a decision made on driver preference, as there are three different ways to get to Baguio from the base of the mountain. The first is Naguilian Road, a rather boring route made especially for people who would rather sleep throughout the drive. Second is the more scenic and nicely paved Marcos Highway. On clear days it offers travelers both a panoramic view of the China Sea in the lowlands as well as the majestic profiles of the mountains up ahead. Last is Kennon Road, a twisty, winding turn all the way up – a fun drive for those who enjoy driving. Kennon Road also offers a view of the many picturesque waterfalls draining into the Bued River in the valley below. At a certain altitude, with the windows down and the air conditioning switched off, Baguio makes its presence known.
The Baguio air, although not as crisp as it once was, still breathes life back into tired lungs. The mountain weather delivers a nice chilly bite, urging individuals to wear sweaters, get under thick covers and cuddle with someone special. Because of the cold, rest is incredibly relaxing, as one could sleep like a rock and wake up feeling refreshed and brand new. The outdoors allows one to get in touch with Mother Nature and a hike in the Sto. Tomas Mountain or a horseback ride around one of the many trails works wonders in calming the senses. Almost all the local cafés offer refills for those that enjoy a nice hot cup of coffee or chocolate and good company. And for those interested in the supernatural, there are the ghosts.
If you believe in paranormal mumbo-jumbo, ghosts make up a good majority of the total population of Baguio. There are the historical ghosts from the city’s stint as a WWII base for both the Americans and Japanese, but more interesting are the ghosts that live in urban myth and children’s stories. While some of these may sound like total hogwash and are successful only because of an emphatic delivery, some are seriously pondered over. The ratio of eyewitness accounts to stories of obvious drunken fabrication is fairly equal.
Two of Baguio’s most famous ghosts live in the city’s center of paranormal activity, the stretch of Loakan Road that leads to the Philippine Military Academy and further away, the Philex Mines. At night, the combined effect of trees, fog, shadows, darkness and two WWII cemeteries make the place really eerie. This is the home of the infamous White Lady of Loakan who walks on the roadside and hails you down as you drive by. No one really picks up strange ladies in the dead of night, so you drive on; but if you check your rear-view mirror, you might see her seated in the back seat of your vehicle hitching a ride.
The second spirit in Loakan lived in an enormous pine tree that grew right smack in the middle of the road. The tree was a road hazard and it claimed the lives of drunken drivers and motorists blinded by the fog, but for so many years, no one wanted to uproot it or cut it down. Local myth said that the tree’s spirit-dweller claimed the souls of those who attempted to remove it.
At the end of Loakan is the Baguio City Airport, where some new ghosts may now live. Imprudent guys drag-raced the stretch of the runway, didn’t brake on time, ran out of road, and found themselves going straight down into a gorge. More famous on this runway, however, is the ghost of a young boy who got sliced by propellers while riding his bike on the runway. The pilot, who didn’t see the boy, just landed the plane and ended up slashing the kid to pieces. Late at night, the watchman, and witness to the gruesome event, still hears the ring-ring of that little boy’s bicycle.
On the other side of Loakan is South Drive; prime property in Baguio, a favorite course for student drivers, and the location of the old Hyatt Terraces Hotel. During the 1990 earthquake that shook Baguio to pieces, the building collapsed taking many of its patrons with it. Although many were rescued, many also perished. Some were trapped deep in the rubble and died there. Both residents and passersby claim to have heard the unmistakable screams for help coming from inside the abandoned compound.
Baguio has established itself as a haven for those who crave relaxation. The cold temperature makes it conducive for just chilling out. On the side, however, its reputation for being a paranormal hotspot is bolstered by the presence of old buildings, historic spots and nippy air. Cold, after all, is often associated with ghosts and the supernatural. As one leaves the mountain city, that last blast of chilly mountain air that hits you may just be Baguio’s ghosts saying goodbye.
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