Myanmar moves me
It must have been because of the numerous temples, pagodas and stupas (there used to be more, but an earthquake and neglect have destroyed them) we visited, entered or viewed from a hot air balloon. It could have been meeting the mild-mannered, smiling people from different ethnic groups, selling everything from postcards to scarves to lacquer ware. It could also have been the long, narrow boats we rode to visit entire villages on stilts. All these and more may have made our visit to Myanmar such a delight.
What used to be called Burma, Myanmar earned its independence from Britain after 62 years (1824-1886). Our tour guide, Rosa, tells us that “myan” means “strong” and “mar” means “quick.” Myanmar’s population of 57 million — primarily Buddhist — are composed of over 200 ethnic groups. Bordered by China to the north, Thailand and Laos to the east, and Bangladesh and India to the west, the influences on food and clothing are present, but have a unique interpretation that is Myanmar’s own.
Yangon or “City of Peace” (founded in the 6th century) strikes me as a city frozen in the 1950s, but ready to break free and move forward: bustling street markets, crawling traffic and venerable colonial buildings. These buildings, long left uninhabited, may soon make way to modern ones. Just two years ago, rundown cars chugged along the roads and mobile phones were only for the rich. Today, Japanese cars are part of the traffic and even monks carry cellphones.
After 20 years of military rule, and with the latest elections hailing the victory of Ang San Su Kyi’s party, Yangon now sees international hotels and commercial buildings being constructed close to the venerable temples. (Traditionally, temples are built by wealthy people’s devotion to Buddha, and solid stupas contain their parents’ relics. Devotees may enter temples, but can only walk around stupas.)
The country was under 20 years of military rule, and the latest elections hailed the democratic victory of Ang San Su Kyi’s party (Rosa, our guide refers to her as “the lady” and worries about her safety). Ang San, her assassinated father, is considered to be the father of Myanmar’s independence.
The 2,600-year-old Shwe (meaning “gold”) Dagon Pagoda, said to contain eight hairs of the Buddha, is a 1.62-hectare complex with a glistening mix of pavilions, stupas, images and bells. Visiting the complex before sunset is truly a visual experience. The main gold-plated dome’s stupa is topped with a 76-carat diamond and encrusted with over 7,000 precious stones that shimmer under the sun. Monks and nuns pray continuously and Buddhist pilgrims visit at least once in their lifetime.
Numerous Buddhist monasteries, supported by donations, open their doors to boys and girls from poor families. As monks and nuns, they receive a good education, with free food and lodging. These monks and nuns may stay there permanently or leave the monastery at any time.
Bagan, in Central Myanmar, has 2,000 temples on an area of seven square kilometers on the eastern banks of the Ayeryarwady River. While one may ride horse-drawn carts to visit some of them, the best way to see these temples is flying in a hot air balloon. And what a serene experience that was! Eight people in a basket plus one very able pilot, our group’s balloon, along with 20 other balloons, lifted off at sunrise. With only the sound of the intermittent puff of hot air to keep us afloat, the silence enhanced the beauty of the 1,200-year-old brick structures resting on the landscape below. And the sight of 21 balloons — green, yellow, orange — silhouetted against the awakening sky is more than words can describe.
Inle Lake is simply magical. In the heart of the Shan Plateau, it is a highland lake, 22 kms long and 10 kms wide, 900 meters above sea level. It is inhabited by 23 different ethnic nationals. Because of its rich soil and the fact that the people have been able to plant on floating gardens, the best vegetables, seasonal fruit and garlic come from this Shan state.
We visited the different villages on a long and narrow boat, which seats four to five people, complete with red umbrellas to protect us from the sun and blankets to keep us warm and splash-free. On the waterway, we met boats selling souvenirs and flowers. We visited the weaving village of Impawkhon and silver and handicrafts workshops at Nan Pan village. We also visited the Intha Heritage House, the famous cat sanctuary of beautiful Burmese cats.
We flew via Air KBZ, what felt like a hop-on-hop-off service flying to and from Yangon, Bagan, Inle, and Mandalay. Trips were only about an hour or so, but the service was surprisingly efficient, relatively prompt, with meals provided.
A note on currency: banks at the airport only accept new (those with shiny bars) and spotless (not even tiny stamps or ballpoint pen marks) US dollar bills. ($1 equals K130,373 Burmese Kyat). When you shop in a store or from a street vendor and you get change in Kyat, please do not accept tattered bills, because the next shop or vendor will not accept these.
Please visit Myanmar sooner than later, before it changes. The charm is in its people’s Buddhist piety and their endearing simplicity. Even the souvenir vendors are polite. They don’t paw potential customers — they just stalk them from site to site on a motorbike, which is rather effective and charming. You will get used to walking barefoot and to wearing proper clothing (no shorts) upon entering temples, as a sign of respect. Not to worry: Vision Travel (it is prudent to go with a good local travel agency, such as this one) will provide water for your parched mouths and wipes for your dusty feet.
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