Singapore street smarts
Singapore’s pace is not as frenetic as Hong Kong’s and it certainly feels more casual. If the government banned tank tops, short-shorts and sandals, there could be a revolution here. Or maybe not, since the Singaporeans are so disciplined.
Everything works. Salespersons, taxi drivers, waiters (even the customs officer at the airport!) ensure a seamless tourist experience. (Maybe it is also because of the presence of so many service-rating boxes — press the smiley face if you are happy with the service!)
Given all of Singapore’s retail offerings, one can conclude that Singaporeans have massive buying power. Malaysians and Indonesians seem to enjoy shopping here, too. Many of the stores are manned by Filipinos — the best salespeople!
We dined at Atelier Joel Robuchon at Resorts World in Sentosa one evening and enjoyed the tapas — pieces of heaven, served flawlessly. The next day, we had lunch at Tiong Bahru Market, a famous hawker center at Seong Poh Road: a serving of duck with noodles was S$3.50 with a huge glass of ice cold sugarcane juice for S$1.50 — deliciously affordable! This is one percent of a Robuchon dinner with wine. (Averaging down is always a good idea.) Because of Singapore’s strict health code, tourists can enjoy trying local dishes in an airy setting, worry-free of tummy trouble.
Hajji Lane in the Kampong Glam area is a happy discovery. It is an interesting mix of bars and prewar shop houses that carry items by young local designers or by young entrepreneurs with cutting-edge fashion ideas. Stores here open at noon and close later at night. This is great place for the ladies to go to with their husbands. The gentlemen can stay at the bar, while the ladies shop. That’s shopping with no stress for both partners.
Karen Rodriguez just opened her shop, Kolombiano, on Hajji Lane, four months ago. She carries colorful, woven bags and jewelry made by the Wayuu tribe in northern Colombia.
Karen left Colombia, heartbroken, and decided to accept a job in Singapore. She met her Romanian husband — who supports her project wholeheartedly — three months after she arrived. Karen wanted to prove to herself that she can make it on her own, while showcasing the handmade products of gifted artisans from this indigenous tribe. The bags are made of 100-percent cotton or leather and dyed with bright, natural colors. It takes 20 days for a Wayuu woman to weave a plain bag (more days for bags with patterns). The Wayuu man weaves the bag straps.
Karen wishes to tell the world that Colombia should not only be known for drugs and violence. It is a beautiful country of hardworking people, with weaving skills and an eye for color and design.
Zhai, on Hajji Lane also, carries clothes made from 100-percent organically grown bamboo fiber. It is a three-year-old company owned by a Canadian, Danielle Champagne. The products are ultra soft — anti-fungal, odor-resistant, biodegradable. It is ideal for Singapore’s warm climate. The T-shirts, light sweaters and leggings are made from bamboo fiber mixed with spandex. The shawls are made from 100-percent bamboo material.
Ann Siang Road, Ann Siang Hill, and Club Road near Chinatown, are fun streets, too. The restored shops were built from 1903 to 1941. These were old remittance houses, used by the Chinese to send money home to China. Today these are occupied by bars, serving everything from craft beer to single malts, tapas to pasta. The street is closed at 7 p.m. on weekends and becomes a party place. Choose a bar and leave your husband/male companion there.
Ladies, proceed to MYthology, a clothing and jewelry store on Club Street, which carries designers from India, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, and Beirut. Owned by Apsara Oswal, it’s ably managed by Agnes Fontana, a French lady married to Julien Royer, chef de cuisine of Jaan Restaurant. The store carries products with a sophisticated aesthetic.
Agnes, who has been in Singapore for five years, described the different designers and their approach to their creations, specifying which are exclusively carried in this boutique: Sarah’s whimsical bags from Beirut, Atelier Swarovski bracelets, rings, and necklaces, Sigrid Wauters leather bracelets, Guli Aire (Guli is Turkish and Aire is Thai), silk mix-and-match clothing, mildly reminiscent of the ‘50s. On display too are dramatic sapphire jewelry pieces, branded Made by M, which stands for its Indian designer, Mansi Choksi.
Among all the other shops in the neighborhood, MYthology is one worth returning to.
While the length of Orchard Road is the normal go-to sleek shopping destination, on your next visit to Singapore, please give yourself two days to cover Haji Lane and Ann Siang Road and their neighboring streets and discover Asian talents who offer other angles to this city’s creative environment.
