Lechon in Iceland? Are you kidding?
MANILA, Philippines - Pinoy cuisine, as delicious as it is, is seldom represented around the world. Sure, you might find a Tito Rad’s in a Filipino-populated neighborhood in Queens, NY, or a Jollibee or two in a few suburbs in San Francisco, CA. But compared to prominent Asian culinary counterparts China, Japan, or even Thailand, Pinoy food, undeservingly, falls behind the rest on the international buffet table.
Enter Harry’s, a small Filipino restaurant in downtown Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland. Come again? Pinoy food in Iceland? Well, Harry’s, owned and operated by husband-wife tandem Kristjan and Lolong Kristjansson, has quietly skyrocketed to the top of the Reykjavik restaurant charts on the popular travel website TripAdvisor, sitting at the No. 2 position at the time of writing after spending months at No. 1. Known for its “friendly atmosphere, uncomplicated menu, and well-prepared food” (says a user named “costbox” from Edinburgh, UK), my dining experience at Harry’s during my family’s summer trip to Europe was comforting and delightful to say the least.
The story of Harry’s began several months after the unlikely meeting of Kris — a native of Iceland — and his soon-to-be-wife Lolong in the Philippines. After living in Lolong’s home in Marikina, the couple migrated back to Reykjavik, and despite some financial struggles due to the ongoing economic crisis in the country, Harry’s was born.
The first thing I noticed upon walking into Harry’s was how simple it was for such a highly-rated restaurant — six to seven tables were comfortably spaced around the restaurant, paintings of Filipino landscapes hung on the walls, and a small, modest kitchen was positioned on the side. Upon entering, we were greeted by Kristjansson, who serves as the owner, manager and waiter of the joint. Peering into the kitchen, I saw Lolong hard at work, often preparing meals for five or more groups at the same time.
Among the dishes we sampled was a lechon kawali plate, complete with vinegar and toyo (can you just imagine having lechon in Iceland, of all places?). We also had a platter of lumpia Shanghai, and a Pinoy-influenced lamb dish that my mother still regards as her favorite meal of the trip. The verdict? The food was great. More impressively, it was surprisingly authentic: the pork was rich and juicy, and tasted like it could’ve been prepared in Aling Loring’s. The lumpia (which Kris brought to the table while we waited for our main courses) was tasty and addictive. The lamb was succulent and spiced perfectly. Our meal was, in essence, Pinoy homecooking at its best.
Towards the end of our meal, we noticed Kris politely turn down several potential customers from dining that evening. Confused at first (as there were obviously several tables vacant), we realized that he had done this to ease the workload on Lolong. After our meal, I went on TripAdvisor to write a rave review about my experience and saw — to no surprise — that Kris had taken the time to respond to every review of his restaurant.
My brothers and I often talk about people who have “figured it out” — people who take only what they need from the world. People who don’t believe in the equation “money = happiness.” After our experience at Harry’s, our unanimous verdict was that Mr. and Mrs. Kristjansson have, indeed, figured it out.