Viva Vigan!

During my recent trip to Ilocos, my efficient driver Mariano remained very courteous and quiet. He hardly said anything most of the time. Yet, as we approached the capital of Ilocos Sur, he suddenly became quite lively and animated. With a sweeping gesture, he said, “Welcome to Vigan!”

It was very obvious that, as he confirmed later on, he was very proud of his hometown.

I could immediately see what there was to boast about. The streets were clean and brightly lit. Everywhere you looked there was bustling activity. The elegant heritage structures looked like they were well preserved and full of life.

Much of the vitality of the city is probably due to its dynamic mayor, Eva Singson Medina. Eva hadn’t originally planned to head Vigan when she graduated from Assumption High School. In fact, she went on to train as an architect at the University of Santo Tomas. As a member of the famous Singson political clan, it is not surprising that she would be recruited to serve on the provincial board. Yet she never expected to take on an executive position. Eventually, however, the day came when her family asked her to run for mayor, a position she easily won.

Eva takes her role as the chief executive of Ilocos Sur’s capital very seriously. One can easily see that she is very familiar with her constituents. In the City Hall, everything looks so streamlined and efficient. Apparently Eva spends most of her time sitting at a small desk outside her actual office. This is to make sure that whoever wants to speak to her does not feel intimidated.

A visit to the Archbishop’s Palace kicks off our museum tour.

Since Vigan is home to one of our country’s most important collections of antique buildings, it is good to know that Eva has taken the trouble to learn more about restoration issues. Some heritage advocates may not be aware that, as a friend explained to me, Mayor Medina has gone out of her way to participate actively in historical conservation workshops in far-off places, such as Bhaktapur in Nepal, and Lijiang in China. She recently hosted a review of all the UNESCO World Heritage sites in the Philippines. During these reviews, managers from the likes of Miag-ao Church in Iloilo and Tubbataha Reef in Mindanao gave updates on what was happening in their areas and exchanged ideas.

It was, in fact, under Eva’s watch that Vigan managed to pull off two spectacular achievements. First, Vigan made a successful bid for cityhood. Vigan had been known for centuries as one of the “ever loyal” urban centers of the Spanish Colonial Empire. Yet, somehow in the past few decades, this status was lost. Mayor Medina led the drive to win back Vigan’s former designation.

Just as important, Vigan became the first Philippine city to be placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Other entries on this list include such fabulous monuments as the Pyramids of Egypt and the Taj Mahal in India. Having been selected by UNESCO implies that our very own Vigan is as distinguished as these celebrated places.

I am told that it is not easy to be given this global honor. One has to prepare conservation plans as well as enact laws protecting certain buildings and districts. And one has to defend the plans before strict assessment panels. Of course, Eva is the first to explain that she did not do it alone. She had the help of many experts as well as members of her administrative team. I can even say that I have personally witnessed that she knows how to give credit where credit is due.

Kid’s play: The Children’s Museum is appropriately called “Buridek,” an Ilocano word that means “youngest child.” After all, we have all been a “youngest child” at one point in our lives. Inside are interactive displays for the young Bigeños or citizens of Vigan.

During a dinner party, I was quite impressed to hear how she defended a well-known heritage advocate who was criticized by one of her guests. Eva made sure that everyone present knew that this particular person had, in fact, done a lot to help Vigan.

Having heard then so much about Mayor Eva, I was overjoyed to learn that she would personally take me around her beloved city. We started our tour at the Archbishop’s Palace to see the museum. We saw an astounding display of silver items attesting to the vast wealth of the Roman Catholic Church and the incredible skills of Filipino craftsmen. I saw altar frontals and candlesticks with the most intricate designs.

Walking around the main sala, Eva pointed out the large portraits that lined the walls. As I noticed that some of them had many cracks, she told me that she had, in fact, helped with letters of request to a national agency for conservation assistance. I found it quite remarkable that our mayor was willing to help all sectors — including the Church — in order to preserve the common heritage of her dear hometown.

Another interesting stop in the itinerary of my day with the mayor was the newly established Children’s Museum. This had been appropriately baptized the Buridek, an Ilocano word that means “youngest child.” After all, as the wall texts suggested, we have all been a “youngest child” at one point in our lives.

Inside were many interactive displays for the young Bigeños or citizens of Vigan. There was even a small recreation of heritage homes which could actually open up so that you could see the interiors. My favorite was a game where one could identify the ingredients for some of the well-known dishes of the area.

The museum is set in a lovely park that had actually been developed by Eva, too. There were tall trees and broad emerald lawns. There were picnic facilities, an outdoor theater and even a swimming pool. I envied the children of Vigan. This was truly a wonderful place for growing up.

Janina of Leila’s Café: For one so young Janina seems to already know that she wants to do something to help her community.

Still another stop was the Mestizo River, the city’s main waterway. Mayor Eva was dredging the place and conducting a comprehensive clean-up drive. I saw her sanitation teams busy at work. There was also a program to consolidate and landscape the river banks. Paths for walking and biking were being created. I could already see it: someday it would be such a joy to wander around this place. Everywhere there would be people strolling around or sitting in the grass. One could take a bicycle and go exploring. Vigan is not just a great place for growing up, it’s a great place to live!

Mayor Eva has actually launched a river cruise. Gaily decorated boats will take you both upstream and downstream while speakers provide a narrative about the city’s history. Tableaux have been constructed on the banks to highlight certain events. What I found most significant was the fact that arrangements had been made so that tourists can take a calesa from the city’s main shopping strict to the river cruise station. These Bigeños have really thought of everything!

Little by little as the morning progressed I began to sense the ingredients of Mayor Eva’s success. First of all she has the support of a splendid administrative team headed by the dynamic Mila Alquiza . Then there is also the support of her very own family. I got to meet her husband Ferdie Medina who had also served as city mayor in the past. I could see that he fully understood what his wife was trying to accomplish and was steadfastly behind her.

What really blew my mind, however, was meeting Ferdie and Eva’s daughter. The Medinas have three children but I had the good fortune to make the acquaintance of only one of them: Janina. I first noticed her trying to get the attention of her mother who was talking to her guests. I noted how patiently she waited until Eva stopped talking before she approached with her own concerns.

I must say that I was very impressed listening to Janina speak about the importance of public service. For one so young she seems to already know that she wants to do something to help her community. She has been invited to attend different seminars to share her insights and experiences.

Colorful boats along the riverbank

I’ve also written in a previous article about how I had a delicious meal at Janina’s new restaurant, Café Leila, which she named after her gorgeous maternal grandmother. The place is delightfully decorated in a style that is playful yet elegant. I especially liked the comfortable sofa that formed one of the dining groupings. The dishes on the menu are innovative new takes on traditional Vigan fare.

Clearly Janina is a young woman who is rooted in the traditions of her heritage city. At the same time she is full of new ideas and eager to stride off on her own direction with the full support of her parents. In many ways she is the best proof that Mayor Eva and her husband Ferdie have done a good job. I think there can be no greater satisfaction than seeing that our vision is understood by a new generation who are willing to continue where we have left off!

Dios ti agngina Vigan!