Of empanadas and other Ilocano delights

The church of San Agustin in Paoay, Ilocos Norte, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is magnificent in every sense of the word. What makes seeing this marvelous edifice an even more fulfilling experience is the fact that one can now include a refreshment stop at a lovely café: The Herencia Cafe. Its strategic location right on the plaza provides incredible views of the church. Best time to come would be early evening when everything is lighted up. Imagine being immersed in all that baroque splendor while eating a hearty meal!

Herencia is the work of the architect Rex Hofilena. I really like the way he incorporated interesting details and motifs from the town’s amazing temple into the design of the restaurant. The café is famous for its innovative menu, which includes creative surprises like pinakbet pizza. There are so many pleasant touches such as the quaint tables that use old sewing machines as bases. Likewise, there are a lot of great products on sale ranging from macramé doilies to local chips.

During my own visit, I had little time as I was on my way to Sitio Remedios (which Rex also designed), where arrangements had been made for lunch. I figured, however, that there would be no harm in checking out the menu at Herencia and picking out a little snack to energize myself before I went out and explored the church under the scorching sun.

Herencia Café: Best time to come would be early evening when everything is lighted up. Imagine being immersed in all that baroque splendor while eating a hearty meal!

My driver was happy to accept my invitation to eat with me. It would be his midday meal, but for me, as I kept telling myself, it would only be a tiny morsel to tide me over. Presuming that the famous pizza would be too heavy, I opted for the empanada.  When it arrived I was mildly shocked. It was huge!

As I easily recover my composure when there is eating to be done, I promptly broke off a piece and dipped it in the accompanying vinegar dip. I silently promised that I would only consume half of what was served.

But I wasn’t prepared for what was in store. The empanada was divine! Think of relishing a crisp orangey crust that embraces tidbits of meat mixed with noodles, eggs and vegetables, all held together by the wine-like vinegar sauce. What else can a person ask for? All these plus a spectacular view thrown in! Needless to say, nothing was left on my plate. I even considered a second order.

Fortunately, good sense won the day and I managed to calm myself without asking for another helping. Reluctantly I stood up and walked to the church. In truth, I didn’t actually walk. I was probably waddling! As I was soon to discover, the empanada was truly filling. It really hits the spot and stays there, leaving no room for anything else.

Yet there was more to come.

The next day, in Vigan, I gamely recounted my Paoay meal to my hosts. It was then that I learned that the capital of Ilocos Sur also had its own empanada as did so many other towns in the region. Not surprisingly, each community is protective of their local version, asserting that theirs was certainly the best in the land.

Family recipes: Irene Allarde and mom Norberta

With all this going around in my head, I found myself being ushered into a modest establishment just in front of the Syquia Mansion. This was the restaurant of Irene Allarde. Irene had been in the empanada business for many years. She had learned the ropes from her mother, Norberta, who had learned it from her own mother. Evidently, there was something special in Irene’s family recipe as the fruits of her kitchen are among the most sought-after in Vigan.

Eddie Quirino, grandson of the president, told us about the time he watched a customer of Irene’s, a diminutive old lady, finish off an immense order. She had asked for no less than six of the empanadas. Eddie was mesmerized, wondering where in such a tiny frame was she going to tuck away her humungous meal. Somehow, to his amazement, every crumb disappeared! It was then that he spied her trade secret. After downing what she had ordered, the little old lady primly opened her bag and brought out bottles upon bottles of what was probably prescription medicine for controlling blood cholesterol levels!

Everyone at the table couldn’t stop laughing at Eddie’s story. In a way, it all made sense. What was the point in spending so much on expensive drugs if these didn’t buy you the chance to indulge? 

Soon it was our turn to indulge. Irene brought out a tray groaning with a mountain of Vigan empanada, fried to a scrumptious golden perfection. I was later told that this was one essential difference between the two versions: the crust in Norte was orange while that of Sur was yellow. There were other differences — something about the kind of flour used or perhaps it was the longganiza or even the egg. I am afraid that I will have to recount all this more carefully in a future article as at that time I was hardly listening: I had been unable to refrain from taking my first bite.

Eddie Quirino, Vigan Mayor Eva Medina, and Janina Medina

Once more I was in heaven! Nothing else mattered. Whatever are the subtle variations between empanadas from the north and south, they are both delicious. And to top it off, one can enjoy them along with fabulous views. In Norte one can munch away in front of Paoay Church, while in Vigan, there was a whole UNESCO world heritage city as a setting. What could possibly be lacking?

Yet again, there still was more.

For the region has many other culinary delights. Everyone has heard of how the Ilocanos are so careful about spending. Yet their being thrifty does not mean that they do not know how to enjoy food.

During one dinner hosted by Eva Medina, the dedicated mayor of Vigan, and her husband, Ferdie, I was pleasantly surprised to be introduced to an astounding range of tasty dishes. Most memorable of these was a kind of stew called pipian. It looked like kare-kare but with a somewhat different composition: chicken, ginger, atchuete or anato and pasotes. This last ingredient is actually an unusual green vegetable that is supposedly a Latin American import. How interesting that one is actually digesting a whole history of international interaction with every delicious spoonful of this unique dish. What made the meal even more memorable was the company. With us that night were Eddie Quirino, his aunt Lila Quirino, Marjo Villanueva, Benjo Verzosa, Irif Rivas, Dennis Rivas and Vice Mayor Ryan Luis Singson.

The next day I was back once again enjoying the graciousness of the mayor’s table. This time I was introduced to the pleasures of ipon, a tiny fish that only comes out at a certain time of year. It is considered a special delicacy and is quite expensive. I was treated to ipon cooked as sinigang or sour soup and another version, this time folded into scrambled eggs. Both dishes were delectable.

How to make delightful delicacy: Preparation of delicious empanada.

After all that traditional fare, it was refreshing to taste Ilocano cuisine reinvented with a contemporary twist. For my very last meal in Vigan I was taken to Leila’s Café, which is run by Janina Medina who is actually Mayor Eva’s daughter. The interiors are quite chic. Everything is in refreshing pastel colors highlighted by photos of Janina’s grandmother after whom the café is named.

I was very impressed by what was on the menu. For the restaurant’s offerings, consisting of Vigan mainstays and prepared with a twist. For example, one could have longganiza with eggs but served as a crepe. Sitting back and feeling quite happy, I thought to myself: the cooking traditions of Ilocos are now in vibrant hands. There were now young chefs and restaurateurs who were willing to rediscover their roots and to experiment.

Indeed, this was something to be really grateful for — one couldn’t hope for more!