Siam sizzles

What is a baby elephant doing in the middle of busy Silom at half past midnight on a weeknight yet?! Well, the costumed cuddly pachyderm is definitely not offering massage services, if that’s what you’re thinking. It’s merely putting on its charm for tourists eager to feed him a banana or two for a price. And now that we’re at it, what is a couple of Caucasian born-again Christians preaching the Good News shouting at the top of their voices in the middle of backpackers’ haven Khao San Road when it’s clear that nobody could care less about the coming end-times? Definitely, they’re not street performers posing as missionaries… or are they?

As always, Bangkok continuously surprises, especially for this third-time visitor to the land of majestic palaces and golden temples, of luscious and delectable food, of friendly people and sizzling hot temperatures. Always a study in contrasts, it takes quite a while before Bangkok reveals its secrets. So what else is new? A lot, as we found out soon enough.

For starters, Bangkok seems to have a thing for having the biggest this and the largest that. Case in point, the Royal Dragon Restaurant which is touted to be the world’s biggest restaurant since it made the 1993 Guinness Book of World Records list. With a seating capacity of about 5,000, it’s no wonder that the 8.5-acre restaurant has 1,200 staff, part of which were trained to skate. The better – and faster – to serve its diners. With such tasty servings including steamed prawns, crabs in chili, pork leg stew, juicy oyster cake, steamed fish, a wide selection of dim sum, and the piece de resistance, a whole roast suckling pig, a dinner at the Royal Dragon Restaurant pleases the palate like no other. Now, if it happens to rain (diners eat al fresco-style), it’s best to dash inside one of the air-conditioned private rooms and continue with your dessert mango sticky rice while singing your heart out via the karaoke installed in each room.

For another taste of something big, it’s best to hop on the Sky Train and get off at Siam Paragon to have a look-see of Southeast Asia’s largest oceanarium – the Siam Ocean World. The spacious, two-level oceanarium is a great place to be to cool yourself off while familiarizing yourself with King Neptune’s subjects. And somehow, you never get that claustrophobic feeling unlike in other huge aqua parks. From colorful starfish that everyone could hold, to the meanest looking piranhas to the docile-looking giant grouper, the very hyper penguin and the world’s biggest water rat (thrice the size of your pet cat), Siam Ocean World leaves quite an impression.

Another gigantic offering of Bangkok is the newly opened Siam Niramit, a spectacular stage production with a seating capacity of 2,000. The after-dinner show (Siam Naramit has a restaurant serving a wide variety of food buffet viewers back in time and gives them a peek at the myths and traditions of Thai culture. The impressive revolving stage transforms magically right before your very eyes. Why, we could swear the stage’s wooden floor was just there a few moments ago, where did this huge river come from? As if to prove his point, an actor even dives into this body of water and resurfaces soaking wet. It even "rains" onstage and claps of thunder and flashes of lightning are heard and seen all around us. The stage design never fails to surprise like, for instance, when a field newly planted with rice became, in a heartbeat, a golden landscape ready for harvest. Delighted viewers are even coaxed time and again to join in the performance including one which has them participating in the popular Thai candle floating festival, the Loy Krathong. The stage is even big enough for two elephants and other domesticated animals such as chicken and goats.

After the show, guests are guided towards the quaint Thai Village to soak up more of the Thai culture. Learn how Thai silk is produced, maybe get a sampling of the popular Thai massage, listen to traditional Thai musical instruments being played, examine a traditional northern-style Thai house and marvel at the intricately-designed arts and crafts. They can even have a photo with the two elephants or buy some souvenirs and delicacies. A must-try is the pumpkin chips.

Of course, Bangkok won’t be Bangkok without the shopping. For Filipinos at least, it’s a mortal sin not to go on a shopping spree while in this city. Admit it, how many of you have looked at Bangkok as one huge shopping center? We’re quite sure there are a lot, including our group of eager bargain shoppers (composed of The Freeman’s Mayen Tan, Sun Star Cebu’s Nelia Neri, Manila Bulletin’s Rikki Jimenez and the Inquirer’s Tino Tejero) brought to this bustling capital by the Tourism Authority of Thailand led by marketing representative Dave de Jesus. It’s easy to get confused by all the shopping malls and night bazaars dotting the city that we always turn to our ever reliable and efficient guide Martin (or Maytee in Thai) for tips. After a brief visit to the Queen Sirikit Convention Center to attend the International Spa and Wellness Conference and Exhibition where the Philippines has a booth (as part of the country’s efforts to promote the Philippines as a major wellness desintation), we were off shopping in a flash.

First up, the shopping malls. At this very moment you’re reading this, new malls are being constructed left and right in Bangkok, perhaps in anticipation of the influx of tourists come June for the King’s 60th anniversary of his ascension to the throne, and sometime in July for a grand sale promo. Whatever the reason, Bangkok is building bigger and better shopping malls.

One of the newest malls to open is the classy Siam Paragon. Remember what we told you about feeling claustrophobic in enclosed spaces? Well, not in Siam Paragon with its high ceilings, spacious hallways, subdued lighting, and uncluttered overall look. It houses well-known labels as well as the country’s best local designers. Amusingly enough, it’s not in the stores that made us linger, but in Siam Paragon’s washrooms. If you’re a stickler for clean toilets like us, then this mall is a class on its own right for its well-designed, five-star hotel-like toilets. If only for that, we give this mall thumbs-up.

Now, for the real shopper raring to make a dent on his or her wallet, an all-time favorite is MBK where items can be had for a song. A wide selection of T-shirts, denims, bags, shoes, toys, Thai handicrafts, and more make for a dizzying day for the bargain hunter. Tees, for instance, can be had for 99 baht each, maybe less if you buy more. Leather bags go for 200 baht or less, and shoes, about the same price range. Before you know it, by the end of the day, you’re lugging around six shopping bags. And we’re just talking about the malls, mind you. We haven’t even gone to Bangkok’s famed night bazaars.

One of the more well-known night bazaars – apart from the king of markets, Chatuchak – in the city is Suan Lum Night Bazaar. Again, it’s not fair visiting this sprawling market if you only have two hours to spare. It would be torture for the avid shopper, and a mistake if you start panic buying "because the bus will be here in a short while and I have to buy all these lovely things!"

The right way to do it is to take your time looking around, comparing prices, and putting on your charms when haggling time comes. If you do this, we guarantee you, you’ll end up with choice items that your other companions have not seen. Going through Suan Lum like the Tasmanian Devil is just not gonna work. But if you’re pressed for time, well, that’s another story and one that we won’t dare pursue because it is such a heartbreaker.

Apart from being a backpackers’ paradise for its cheap but very interesting finds, Khao San Road is home to a host of fascinating characters as well, from the Bible-toting missionary, to the costumed child performer, to the smiling bohemian with the dreadlocks. More than the stuff you buy from this place, you take home a fascinating experience.

Bangkok’s Chinatown is a different story altogether. Before visiting this area, you have to know what you really want otherwise you will be engulfed by the huge selection of items. If you want bags, they’ve got lots, from the flower power-designed canvas bags to synthetic leather bags, to beaded, elegantly-designed tiny purses. If you buy wholesale, then you’ve got yourself a deal, a good one at that.

If you get tired and thirsty, the neighborhood juice seller has freshly-squeezed, ice cold orange juice for you. Either that, or you can try a refreshing sip of fresh sugarcane juice for that instant perk-me-up. For something heavy, an order or two of grilled squid will suffice.

If you know your way around, the Sukhumvit and Silom bazaars are great places to see as well. Hotels, such as the Amari Boulevard Hotel in the Sukhumvit area, are located right next to these places so it’s an easy stroll. The Amari Watergate, for instance, is conveniently located in the Pratunam area. Just right across it is the Platinum Mall and adjacent to the hotel is a huge bazaar that sells all sorts of stuff. Name it, they’ve probably got it. With an average 87 percent occupancy rate every year, Amari Watergate, according to general manager Pierre-Andre Pelletier, certainly is a favorite home away from home for tourists, whether it be for leisure or business. What’s memorable with staying at Amari Watergate is its friendly and very courteous staff. Its business center is highly commendable for its efficient staff who knows how to anticipate your needs, especially if you’re rushing to e-mail, say, a story because it’s urgent that you meet the deadline or else your editor will kill you if you don’t deliver.

Of course, the hotel’s cozy rooms are highly appreciated by guests who, at the end of the day, wants to plop down on a nice, ergonomically-designed bed and just drop off to Siamland. This is especially true for those with bad backs; the hotel’s de luxe rooms have great beds that protect your back from strain. And, perhaps the most surprising part of it all (at least in the executive suites) is that you get to take a hot bath with your favorite rubber duckies. Ernie would have loved the trio of rubber duckies lined along the bathtub ready to sing "… oh, we’re so awfully proud of you!"

Another seasoned hotel that’s becoming a favorite as a convention site is the Four Season’s Hotel. But perhaps, the most striking about this hotel is its impressive lobby what with giant mandala-like designs painted on the ceilings Michaelangelo-style. And the huge mural depicting Thai culture and tradition that greets a guest as soon as he enters has become a favorite spot for photo-ops.

Cocktails were fun, with the hotel’s signature martinis opening our tastebuds for the sumptuous feast to come. Hosted by Four Seasons public relations manager Annabelle Daokaew, dinner at the Biscotti was one fabulous affair. The carpaccio was subtly flavored and the grilled dory a fish lover’s delight. A Filipino who has been living in Bangkok for decades now, Annabelle was the perfect and ever gracious host who regaled our small group with her experiences working in Thailand. We left Four Seasons with more than just a filling dinner, but also with a new appreciation and respect for Filipinos working in Bangkok, or in other places for that matter.

Despite an aborted trip to the Pak Klong Talad flower market (everybody wanted more time to shop), it was as a whole a pleasantly productive visit, shopping-wise and knowledge-wise. For one, it gave us another dimension as far as staying in Bangkok is concerned. Like a half-opened lotus flower, yet another layer has been exposed. Yet another facet of Bangkok’s complex personality has been unveiled. Maybe, the next time around, we’ll get to see it blooming. There’s no doubt about it, though, this friendly city is booming.

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For more information, visit Tourism of Thailand at Unit 304, One Beatriz Tower, Lauan Street corner Aurora Blvd., Quezon City, or call 911-1660. You may also log on to www.tourismthailand.org.