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Modern Living

Smooth as Silk

AT LIBERTY - AT LIBERTY By Jackie Cohen-Antonio -
Dining out is always a stimulating event as there are few things in life that satiate us more than a wonderfully done-up meal. Take stellar food coupled with a fantastic ambience and you’ve got a great thing going. There’s nothing that’s as happily satisfying as this formula.

As a self-proclaimed gourmet, I research and comb the streets of Manila in a personal pursuit for the perfect palate-pleasers and locales I would enjoy returning to. When the news came through that Thai at Silk restaurant opened, it wasn’t long before I clicked my heels, headed over and happily obliged my taste buds, which were in easy agreement.

A long-time fan of Thai cuisine, Cecille Ysmael would occasionally cook at home and even had a go at catering for close friends. Quite impressed with her culinary skills, Cecille’s friends badgered her to open up a Thai restaurant. Though constant trips to Bangkok and Chiang Mai over the years would always include a cooking course for Cecille, she trained under a Raffles Hotel chef for an intensive two months before she felt 100-percent prepared to introduce authentic Thai food to Manila.

Husband Louie Ysmael nabbed a prime spot for their spanking-new venture at Fort Bonifacio’s Serendra Promenade. Calling on friends and fellow foodies for partners, dream makers Ching Cruz, sister duo Ivy and Cynthia Almario (who incidentally did the interiors), Tanya Chua and Agnes Huibonhua became part of the plan.

The food is spectacular at this epicurean gem. Dishes are made of first-rate ingredients from Thailand, so nothing can be more genuine than this. Cecille is at the kitchen’s helm, overseeing all production for absolute consistency and making sure the taste radiates "home-cooked meal." An extensive menu offers delicious dishes highlighting the finest Thai cuisine has to offer.

Tasty and comforting tom yum soup is delightful and fragrant. The Thai version of our sinigang, this broth has a slight kick to it, making it more complex than your everyday soup. Appetizers like paw pia thawt and deep-fried spring rolls unfold in your mouth while beautifully presented, making them visually appealing as well. The sauce that accom-panies the spring rolls gives it the perfect balance of savory and sweet. Moo ping bai cha plu, grilled aromatic pork wrapped in betel leaves, is succulent and unique. The shrimp and pomelo salad brings texture and taste to another level. The flavors of sweet shrimp and tangy pomelo unite, delivering euphoria straight to your taste buds.

The green chicken curry is exceedingly flavorful without being heavy at all on the stomach. Drizzling the curry sauce on jasmine or healthy brown rice is utterly blissful. I would have loaded up on that dish, but there were so many others to sample. Another curry, the mutsaman, weighs in high on the taste factor and was loudly applauded.

The pad thai was presented so beautifully, I almost did not want to eat it, fussing over its pretty lattice presentation. Naturally, I caved in and it tasted exactly like the pad thai I tried before in Bangkok.

In terms of seafood, the fish was unbelievably fresh and tender. The choo chee plaa, a lightly fried white fish fillet in a reduced coconut-curry sauce, is what Thai dreams are made of. Mouthwatering sole chargrilled in a banana leaf with perfumed Penang curry, panang pla kapong yang bai tong, was heavenly. Each bite was scrumptious and far from sinful. Cecille’s delectable dishes are clean-tasting without ever feeling oily. The kitchen can accommodate any spice level, so whether you like your food mild or extremely caliente, they can tweak the spice for you. Thai at Silk only uses the freshest ingredients and takes healthy eating into consideration. Over 60 appetizing dishes are listed on the menu and there’s a bevy of options for vegetarians to choose from.

As if I wasn’t already stuffed to wits’ end, I still made room for dessert. I strongly believe things should always end on a sweet note. The taro balls in coconut milk were lovely, while the tapioca pearl pudding with young coconut flesh was instantly gratifying. Sticky rice with mango spelled Y-U-M. The beauty of the desserts was that they had just the right amount of sweetness but were far from overkill.

All this and in a gorgeous setting to boot! The interiors, flawlessly and fabulously done by the Almario sisters, are a statement of simple elegance delivered through clean white lines accentuated with crisp shades of green and hints of brown. Posh celadon-colored Thai silk imported from silk god Jim Thompson in Bangkok covers parts of the exposed walls. At lunch, plenty of natural light shines in, while softly lit hanging lamps set the mood for dinner and afterwards. Fresh flowers are abundant with stalks and buds, adding soft cheer to the eatery while also lightly perfuming the air. Immaculately done, the décor emits the pleasant vibe of its owners. A well-stocked bar with loads of imported wines and spirits are available for pre- or post-prandial cocktails.

Thai at Silk transforms into a chill after-dinner lounge that is inviting and conducive to patrons lingering merrily.

Overall, I’d have to say my excursion was as smooth as silk. I was content and felt like I had a little piece of Bangkok on my plate without having to travel and lug my baggage.
* * *
Thai at Silk is open every day for lunch and dinner. Seating capacity is for slightly over 100 people and private parties can be arranged.

Located at Unit 1C12 Little Asia on the ground floor of Serendra Piazza in Fort Bonifacio, call 856-0386 or 856-0387 for reservations.

BANGKOK AND CHIANG MAI

CECILLE YSMAEL

CHING CRUZ

FORT BONIFACIO

HUSBAND LOUIE YSMAEL

IVY AND CYNTHIA ALMARIO

JIM THOMPSON

LITTLE ASIA

RAFFLES HOTEL

THAI

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