Zacarias 1925 Gets Its Weave On

MANILA, Philippines — Zacarias 1925 might not immediately ring a bell when it comes to local retail, but the brand has its own loyal following around some of the world’s most fashionable cities. An offshoot label under the infamous S.C. Vizcarra brand, Zacaraias 1925 is helmed by Rita Nazareno, who took the classical handwoven pieces and local textiles its parent brand was known for and gave it a whimsical, style-forward spin.

The label is coming off its resounding victory at CITEM’s Manila FAME trade show, where the Zacarias 1925 Case Portable 9 bag tickled the fancy of many and won the judges’ hearts, taking home the prestigious Katha Award. YStyle sits down with Nazareno to discuss the triumphant piece, the Zacarias 1925 design process, and how the MMDA served as inspiration for creating new pieces.

YSTYLE: Tell us about the bag.

RITA NAZARENO: Case Portable 9 is part of the Zacarias 1925 spring/summer collection that references vintage television sets from the '50s to '80s

What is it made of and what made you choose those materials?

Hand-woven wicker with leather details. Wicker, as well as chaircane and leather, are our canvases at the workshop.

What is your creative process like?

The beginning of my process is very personal, in that I reference and research things that interest me — whether contemporary art, architecture, cinema or vintage portable television sets. Or highway and road barriers. They’re rather varied and slightly strange, as you can see. I don’t really look at trends, I look at what amuses or amazes me. My uncle helps me in the prototype process and I look forward to working with him. He’s semi-retired now and comes in to just help me. 

What do you love most about this piece?

There’s this crazy groove on the top of this case that harks back to the spaces for TV handles and antennas that is specifically to rest cell phones and tablets on. I love the convenience of it. Plus that’s also how we view television content nowadays, isn’t it? I do love TVs and, ages ago, in another lifetime, I actually worked in television. I probably missed that part of my life as well.

What do you think made this bag stand out from the rest of the pieces in Manila FAME and win the Katha Award?

If I must speculate, I would probably say that the bag has a certain wit to it. Despite the fact that it has some pretty cool and serious weaving, it also doesn’t take itself too seriously nor too literally. It is a fun bag, isn’t it?

What about creating this bag was particularly interesting?

I’ve done some strange bags in the past and I love how our weavers and sewers and leather makers get into it. When I sit with them and explain the references or when they sometimes just get it and have these knowing smiles, those are the best times. I love that they enable me.

What sort of person did you have in mind in creating this piece?

I certainly don’t think it is for everyone. But I do see it being carried by people who have a certain (sense) of humor. 

This bag is part of a collection you’re launching in Manila next month. Tell us about the other pieces?

The full s/s 19 collection of Zacarias 1925 will be launched at Aphro on Nov. 8. I’m excited about that. I have some classic pieces in different weaves and washes as part of the season. There’s also one of my favorites, what I call the H1 long clutch, based on a concrete highway barrier (H1 being the main highway on Hawaii). I did a short version called the “MMDA Orange.” Once you see it, hopefully you’ll get it and have a bit of a giggle.

What’s next for Zacarias 1925?

I’m actually working on the s/s 20 collection already! Some new shapes are pretty interesting and my uncle and I have been trying to figure them out — it is the exciting part for me. I’ve seen and experienced some pretty amazing art, architecture, music and patterns from spending time in San Francisco, LA and Hawaii this year so hopefully they translate to hand-woven bags for 2020. 
I launched this s/s 19 collection in Premiere Classe during Paris Fashion Week this past September. It should be in Tokyo soon, starting at the Museum Shop at Watarium Museum in Aoyama. Some of the pieces will also be at the S.C.Vizcarra/Beautiqa store in Shangri-La Plaza by December. - With David Milan