Couture Culture
Chanel
MANILA, Philippines – This season, luxury goes environment-friendly as Chanel turns to the use of sustainable materials for its haute couture collection. Cases in point: wood chips (ingeniously used as pailettes, 3-D frills, and beading), organic woven yarn, wild cotton, and recycled paper are seamlessly incorporated in ankle-grazing tassel dresses, textured puff-sleeve jackets, airy chiffon capes, and the French fashion house’s iconic bouclé suits to stunning effect. Ecologically sound high fashion? Count us in.
Maison Margiela
John Galliano’s experimental sensibility works well with Maison Margiela’s distinctive aesthetic and it shows—the off-kilter looks at the atelier’s Artisinal collection are equal parts eccentric and brilliant. Metallic brocade is pleated and sewn on single-sleeve cream coats, colorful shredded toiles trail off outsized double-breasted blazers, and feather fringes are incorporated on satin dresses. Coupled with zany collaged boots and even zanier beauty looks, Galliano’s third couture collection with the brand is a sight to behold.
Valentino
With golden serpents slithering on the wavy tresses of ethereal barefoot muses, Valentino’s latest couture collection is the stuff of fairy tales. Floor-length dresses done up in velvet, brocade, and chiffon evoke an air of romanticism and innocence but don’t expect any saccharine looks. Instead, the effect is more regal, with embroidered coats worn over sparkle-encrusted slips and delicately painted velvet appliqués placed on fully pleated transparent gowns.
Giambattista Valli
With intricate floral motifs embroidered and appliquéd in Giambattista Valli’s ultra-feminine designs, it’s no surprise that the Italian designer looked to Paris’ famous gardens—among them the Palais-Royal, Parc de Bagatelle, and Jardin des Tuileries—for inspiration. Strewn on blush-colored bishop-sleeve shift dresses, frothy tulle gowns and organza empire-waist frocks, it’s crystal clear that Giambattista’s couture offerings are made for pretty young things.
Viktor & Rolf
The Cubist designs on Viktor & Rolf’s all-white lineup may have bordered on the absurd but its impeccable 3-D construction was undeniable. Using the clothes as a blank canvas, hemlines are warped, faces are collaged, and volumes and volumes of fabric are ruffled, skewed, distorted, pleated, and spiraled with precision. It’s outrageous, sure, but hey, it’s couture!
