An Inward Eye

MANILA, Philippines – In this digital age, what constitutes “making it big” for a homegrown fashion label?    

When storied brick-and-mortar retailers are acquiring online portfolios (Neiman Marcus and the acquisition of Mytheresa.com), pure e-commerce destinations expanding into physical pop-ups (Etsy.com and Net-a-porter.com with Porter magazine), the sharing economy and platform apps popularized by Uber and Lyft evolving into retail (Lyst.com and the boutique platform Farfetch.com), the ascent of the independent startup label starts to divert from the traditional path.

For London-schooled local designer Carl Jan Cruz, the conversation that surrounds a “globalized fashion label” is starting to shift. “Fashion is starting to take on many aspects and mediums,” shares Cruz. “Given the global positioning of my studio in Manila, I personally feel that being here feeds into my creative energy. The contrast of a push for more livelihood in our local industry, and the feel of a very relaxed city as an ‘escape’ feeds into the conversation that surrounds my pieces.”

This past weekend, local designer Carl Jan Cruz opened his Manila studio for a private viewing of his most recent offering “Collection 1-30.” From his design influences to his global strategy and what’s next for Carl Jan Cruz, YStyle gets the lowdown. 

YSTYLE: Carl Jan Cruz, where are you and where are you going?

CARL JAN CRUZ: Right now, I have just finished the first phase of business planning my brand. Right now, I’m in Manila. I leave for London soon actually (laughs) but figuratively, I am currently at the stage where everything is done independently (in terms of the design and business aspects of my label), figuring out the flow of things on a calendar basis and a lot of strategic travel planning.

Hopefully, this leads to the path of a modest independent brand that functions globally.

Since we’ve last checked in with you, you’ve spoken before about introspection, an “inward eye,” emotion and abstraction in exploring your aesthetic philosophy and design. Do you still approach creation with the same directives in mind?

Definitely. Without it, I think, I can’t personally have the right kind of energy and enough vision for the direction. Also, I suppose these days it applies to the business side of the brand as well.

On that note, can you walk us briefly through your current offerings, Collection 1-30?

The collection is an extension of what I started as a raw idea in 2014, that I still polish to this day. It was my vision. Visually autobiographical and pragmatic; I am quite surprised myself how far I have personally stretched the concepts and the theme.

Collection 1-30 feels like a very contenting foundation for the codes of this humble start — establishing the silhouettes, techniques and the small details within every garment.

The words “newness” and “conceptual” come to mind in parsing the pieces from your label, Carl Jan Cruz. Do you plan on applying the same kind of innovation when it comes to your business? We’ve seen local designers go through the traditional path of seasonal collections, look books, wholesalers and stockists, department stores (Vivien Ramsay for Opening Ceremony, Mich Dulce for Selfridges etc.). Do you see the same path for your label?

The brand right now strives for something new and exciting in terms of marketing and press. However, I wouldn’t say I am conforming to any form of industry business standards, but I’d like to think I am just “dancing to my own drumbeat.” I hope this creates a dialogue, to be able to identify with the right people commercially.

You recently staged a showroom viewing for your Collection 1-30 just this past weekend. Can you tell us about the event?

I figured that I have never really opened up myself and my label to Manila in a public way, and I wanted to share the brand in an intimate manner. It was very tangible and interactive. It was calming and eye-opening for me to meet and interact with these people from different walks of life. Learning that the people whom expressed their “love” for the brand over the weekend have a very strong interest in my clothes — it was a very position vision for me, of the evolving market in the Philippines and possibly in Southeast Asia.

What’s next for Carl Jan Cruz, the designer and the label?

Right now, it’s all about working hard and to never stop. I’ve laid all my cards on the table, I can’t personally tell.

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Carl Jan Cruz is available online at http://www.carljancruz.com.