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New pollution

#NOFILTER - Chonx Tibajia - The Philippine Star

Each trip to the dermatologist’s office has taught me many things. One, that extractions can be more painful than getting an actual tattoo; two, that she might be injecting secret spy cameras on my skin because she somehow always knows when I’ve been lazy (that’s not a mole, guys); and three, that patience is, indeed, a virtue. Among so many other things. There is a benefit to chatting with your skin therapist while she examines your face: you learn through other people’s mistakes, you can pick up tips on where to get non-OTC super products, and you develop a beneficial relationship, which is already pretty intimate to begin with. (Hello, she’s picking at your blackheads.) Lately, I’ve been cheating though, talking to many different experts for tips and tricks beyond the usual “Always put serum first” or “Never touch your face.” Their revelations range from scary (the Internet is damaging my cells!), to sensible (I find out why the right side of my face is more prone to breakouts). Allow me to share them with you.

Can you use anti-aging creams if you’re already old?

We are taught to start using eye creams as early as our 20s and anti-aging creams in our 30s, because they work on the premise that there’s still something to prevent. But what if you’re already there? Clarins created a line that younger beauty addicts will certainly envy but can never use: Clarins Super Restorative Creams and Serums. It’s only for women over 45 — an age where there is a significant decrease in hormonal activity, which causes a spike in signs of aging. Hollow cheeks, wrinkles, age spots, dryness, the works. When Kee explained the signs to me, I worried that I might already have them. But she specified that using these products would not benefit me at all. “Make your mom happy!” she joked. The range includes a day cream, night cream and serum, which act 24 hours a day to reactivate hormonal activity on the surface level, accelerate cell renewal on the epidermis, and promote collagen synthesis to replace dead skin. The serum also lifts the features, so goodbye hollowness and sagging cheeks. I ask if she’s sure I can’t use it. “You can, but its effects are best seen on more mature skin,” she says. Available at Rustan’s.

Does your face look flat in selfies?

With a dedicated selfie folder in your camera roll (thanks for the embarrassing reminder, new iOS), you can now analyze why they’re all just there and not up on your feed. Why don’t you like them? Is it because, despite your best efforts, you’re looking more like a pancake than an expertly contoured model? Your genes might not be entirely to blame. NARS makeup artist Helena Kastensson was in Manila for the launch of the Francois Nars x Steven Klein collection, and she gave us some tips. The new collection includes a chalky, pearlized white eyeshadow that looks stunning on a palette, but what exactly is it for? “You can use it subtly highlight your features. Use it on brow bone, on your cupid’s bow, on the bridge of your nose, just to give your face more definition,” she says. The collection also includes a drool-worthy blush palette (featuring Steven Klein’s famous photographs from Vogue) that you can use to contour. You don’t have to use just one color, as long as you use them sparingly. “When everything is just flat and white, it looks weird,” says Helena. Available at Rustan’s.

Do I look older after 5 p.m.?

A host of serums and creams repair skin at night, when it is most receptive of active ingredients. But after a full day of activities, skin can begin to show signs of fatigue and make it look five years older — we need a product that repairs skin during daytime, too! Kiehl’s Daily Reviving Concentrate (perhaps a counterpart to its well-loved Midnight Recovery Concentrate), gives skin daytime defense and helps reduce signs of stress. It strengthens and protects the skin barrier for a smooth, fresh and healthy look. Oh, and the campaign stars Nicole Warne a.k.a. Gary Pepper Girl, the cheeriest woman you’ll see online.

Is Wi-Fi ruining your face?

A chat with Singapore-based Clarins regional trainer Karen Kee revealed that my cellphone and laptop are more than just melting pots for all kinds of germs — the radiation that they emit actually inhibits cell growth. In an experiment where plants were exposed to the same amount of wireless radiation as a cellphone gives off, it was discovered that the plants nearest to the radiation didn’t grow. Scary, right? Other studies claim that we should actually be more afraid of the sun than Wi-FI, but being on the safe side (read: a bit paranoid) can’t hurt. So-called “anti-pollution” products help address this, as well as effects of other pollutants. Clarins is a pioneer in the cause, patenting an ingredient called E3P that fights free radicals from electromagnetic forces caused by Wi-Fi. The brand came out with E3P Screen Mist, a facial spray that counteracts radiation. A more practical product from the brand, Clarins UV Plus Anti-Pollution Day Screen SPF 50/PA++++, also contains this ingredient, along with antioxidants and replenishing blackcurrant extract that fights redness and dryness. (The tinted formulation, which reminds me of this insect-bite cream my mom made me use as a kid, blends well with makeup.) Available at Rustan’s.

Do you forego sunscreen because it ruins makeup?

At the launch of Perricone MD’s No Makeup Makeup line, I spoke to the brand’s education manager Emina Avdukic about how sunscreen can sometimes be a hindrance to getting your makeup right. Do you apply before makeup, so the skin absorbs more of it? Or after makeup, so it won’t get diluted and you’ll get more protection? The former is ideal, but since some formulations tend to clump and flake, or are too white, some forego it altogether. Eliminating confusion, Perricone MD puts everything the skin needs in one skincare range that happens to have pigments — their No Makeup Makeup line. It includes a No Foundation Foundation, No Blush Blush, No Bronzer Bronzer, and No Concealer Concealer. “It’s anti-aging with pigments, so it’s skincare first,” she says. All products also contain mineral sunscreen, so we don’t have to worry about applying anything in detrimental reverse — everything we need is packed in pretty vials that you can take anywhere. Available at Rustan’s.

Do your hands look much older than you are?

Some habits are so well-formed, we don’t even know we’re doing them, while some are just inevitable. Like driving, for instance, when you can’t help but keep your hands on the wheel, where they should be. Do your hands look gnarly and dry? Maybe you’re forgetting to apply sunscreen on them because you’ve been so used to applying sunscreen using them? In my case, I’ve noticed tiny red bumps on my right arm, because I’m always a passenger. Don’t forget your hands — think of your Chanel Le Vernis Phenix. Impossible to pull off with ugly hands. Available at Rustan’s.

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BEAUTY-PRODUCTS

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NO MAKEUP MAKEUP

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STEVEN KLEIN

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