Structure and decay

MANILA, Philippines - In 2011, Seph Bagasao graduated from the Fashion Institute of the Philippines, where he was named designer of the year. That same year also saw him as a finalist at Preview Magazine’s Emerging Fashion Talent Awards, where editors took notice of his work and featured his graduation collection in various fashion glossies. After a brief internship with menswear designer Zxander Tan, he interned for an international fashion house, where he was later offered a job as a junior designer — a post he still holds today.

Inspired by a recent trip to New York, the young designer launches his eponymous label this year with his first ever prêt-à-porter collection. Minimalist in aesthetic but rich in detail, the Bagasao fall/winter 2015 collection is undoubtedly made for the cool girl. From mesh-sleeved knit turtlenecks to wide-leg denim flares and hand-embellished neoprene coats, his understated luxe pieces are marked with cool restraint and manage to be current without chasing fads. Leather-trimmed mesh rucksacks, oversize clutches, and strap mules also feature in the collection, lending androgynous appeal.

YStyle sits down with Bagasao and gives an exclusive first look at his fall/winter 2015 collection.

YSTYLE: Tell us about your first forays into fashion.

My interest in fashion started in the fourth grade when I watched a Versace runway show. I would always sketch in notebooks (mine or my seatmate’s) and this went on until college. Initially, my parents didn’t want me to take fashion so I took up Nursing, then shifted to Psychology, which I finished in 2008. But this didn’t stop me from thinking about fashion. I couldn’t kill the desire to make beautiful clothes, to dress my sister and mom in the chicest way. One night, I stumbled upon Christian Dior’s fall 2008 couture show on YouTube and I was stunned by how beautiful the pieces were, from the clothes to the headpieces, and even to the height of the shoes. Since then, I made up my mind to finally pursue fashion design.

What inspires your designs?

It always starts with coming across something beautiful that captures my senses. When something moves me, I am able to translate all the emotion it gives me into a variety of textures, cuts, colors, fabrics and embellishments. It can be a photograph, a structure, a scene, or a song…anything, really.

What was the inspiration for your fall/winter 2015 collection?

Last year, I was fortunate enough to go on a trip to New York for work. Roaming around the city, I got the feeling that I was where I was supposed to be at that moment. My eyes moved like a curious five-year-old boy’s. I took photos of every structure that I could see, including doors, pipes, signage and pavements, but what really caught my eye were these raw gray walls with yellow doors and red and green pipes. Striking without being in your face, the façade somehow gave me a feeling of nonchalance. I just felt free and unguarded at that moment. I wanted to translate that feeling, that sensibility, in my collection.

What specific fabrics or techniques did you use?

I used different fabrics — among them chambray, wool, denim, neoprene, and mesh — and got them in similar tones and colors to create cohesive looks. Most pieces actually have two or more fabrics incorporated in them to give texture and create subtle contrast. There’s also some handwork done in several pieces. It took a total of 10 hours to create the fringe hem on the sleeve of my structured top design using thread and long bugle beads.

What are your plans for the brand in the future? 

Besides a full range of ready-to-wear clothing and bags, I’m also planning to include shoes and accessories in future collections, as my aim is to offer complete head-to-toe looks for women. Eventually, I want to establish a studio that will house all of my designs. I want Bagasao to reach a wider, more diverse market so I’m also looking into taking it global as the brand progresses.  

Who is the Bagasao woman?

I admire women who have a very strong sense of self but are never hungry for power and attention. The Bagasao woman is learned and subtle. She is stylish in her own right and is more than what she wears. She appreciates quality and is a lover of art, music and design. Tilda Swinton, Emanuelle Alt and Kate Lanphear perfectly embody this ideal — I’ve always dreamed of them wearing my clothes.

Photos by KEVIN CAYUCA, Styling by MJ BENITEZ, Makeup by ANTHEA BUENO of MAC Cosmetics, Hair by MYCKE ARCANO, Modeled by SAMANTHA GOMEZ of CalCarrie’s