A statement of rebellion
MANILA, Philippines - From the streets of London in the 1970s to the fall/winter runways of 2013, punk in all its leather-clad, studded glory is making a comeback.
As if this year’s punk-themed Met Gala wasn’t a big enough hint, the famed subculture, once only associated with anti-establishment ideologies and rebel stereotypes, is back on the fashion radar as one of the biggest trends to come out of fall. Saint Laurent Paris, Jeremy Scott, Jean Paul Gaultier and Junya Watanabe are just some of the designers who have embraced ‘70s punk in full force, incorporating everything from leather, plaid, fishnet stockings, studs, spikes and chains into their glamorous yet unexpected pieces. Just when we thought we’ve seen just about everything this age-old trend has to offer, fall hits us hard with fresh takes we never saw coming.
While inspiration from traditional punk fashion was used as the backbone for some collections, designers found ways to fuse its popular elements with alternative cuts, techniques and embellishments. Punk experienced a more “grown-up†revival this time around as its loud and dramatic properties were balanced out with refined and polished features, as seen in collections by Chanel, Anthony Vaccarello and Rodarte. Hints of plaid, spikes and chains were used to enhance looks without overpowering their overall design and construction. Punk and non-punk elements joined together to reinvent staple fall/winter pieces such as biker jackets, leather boots and coats. Leather was mixed with textures like tweed, as seen in pieces by Junya Watanabe. Weaving and quilting were techniques applied to pieces by Helmut Lang and Gianvito Rossi. Suede leather jackets were embellished with fringes along the sleeves and intricate embroidery as seen in Moschino. Plaid and floral, an unusual yet striking combination, was spotted at Givenchy. This season, punk, known for its rugged and rebellious characteristics, was transformed into edgy yet sophisticated high fashion.
Some collections were more straightforward about their punk inspiration. Fausto Puglisi took plaid and leather to new heights — leather jackets covered in crystals and medallions, tartan lace-up boots and baseball caps, strappy knee-high heels covered in buckles and plaid mini skirts made up his 31-piece collection. Versace didn’t at all shy away from spikes and studs, embellishing everything from pants to boots in silver hardware. Statement tees and sweaters by Versace and Jeremy Scott screamed punk rebellion.
Not even fur could escape the punk invasion. Fur coats by Fendi and Roberto Cavalli resembled colorfully dyed Mohawks, a popular fad during the height of the punk era. Styling also played a major role in completing the punk-inspired runway looks of this fall/winter season. Colorful wigs that echoed messy Mohawks, complemented by neat inverted braids, enhanced the collection by Fendi. Thakoon and J.W. Anderson made use of half bangs and uneven fringes as part of their punk-inspiration. Marc Jacobs and Haider Ackermann both went with short and spiky hairstyles, Ackermann adding a touch of platinum blonde at the tips.
If this fall/winter season has taught us anything, it’s that there’s always a new way to approach an old trend. Whether subtle or in-your-face, punk definitely made a solid statement this season. The key, we’ve learned, isn’t always going over-the-top but knowing how to strike a balance between punk elements and other classic or seasonal styles. Thoughtful styling (through hair, makeup and accessories) is just as important as the clothes themselves — this can either make or break your outfit. In 2013, punk is no longer just reserved for the rebels and deviants who want nothing to do with what is mainstream. Punk, ironically enough, has found a new home in the glamorous world of high fashion.
