Philippine fashion week report: Michael Cinco delivers the usual — gowns aplenty

MANILA, Philippines - It’s been four years since Michael Cinco’s solo show that had everyone agape over Victorian gowns and pirate ship headdresses, but still the reaction to this Dubai designer fluctuates between degrees of wonder-amazement-fascination-pride — perhaps in that order. Entitled “The Impalpable Dream of Russia,” the entire collection unfolds like an opera, set against a minimal stage backdrop and theatrical blocking. of lights and shadows, moving against a remixed version of Rihanna’s Stay and Camille Saint-Saëns’ The Dying Swan, introducing characters and conflicts by way of costume

As expected from Cinco, the gowns are exquisitely detailed in laser-cut lace, Swarovski crystals, and embroidered tulle that, while keeping to his trademark silhouettes, gives way to intricacies in detail — a V-shaped cut on the back, or a halter dress whose embroidery develops into a neo-floral pattern towards the hemline. This collection is meant to be appreciated from multiple points of view: from afar where you see the translucency and delicateness of the materials he employs against the backlit stage, the straight and hourglass silhouettes he presents as homage to Christian Dior, as well as the Art Deco, checkerboard, and gothic tracery patterns he plays with; and up close, where you will marvel at the construction of lace embroidery upon lace upon Swarovski crystals, and hand-stitched sequins on patterned tulle.

He grouped the palette as though introducing characters, beginning his treatise in nude and blush hues, before providing ample tension and counterpoint in the appearance of black gowns, one after the other, still making use of the same “more is more” concept of embellishment, until it provided the arc, and release, with the massive ball gowns of nude lace and voluminous tulle with trailing veils. Perhaps only after seeing the show will you be able to discern the concept of impalpability in all of Cinco’s work.