Philippine Fashion Week Review: LUXE WEAR: Colors and texture battle it out with neutrals, cutouts and lace

The Luxe Wear show at Fashion Week was as entertaining as it was mind-boggling. A roster of seasoned and up-and-coming designers showcased collections so opposed to each other that it felt like pure delight followed by alarm and slight shock. You would think that by now, our designers would understand what women want to — and what they never — wear, yet there was a disconnect between the design process and presentation.

In spite of this, however, there were shining moments that truly delighted the audience and showed enough promise to revive our faith in innovative design.

Chris Diaz

Diaz’s feminine aesthetic was not lost in his latest collection, playing with simple, basic shapes, this time peppering it with bright hand-painted/dip dyed prints mixed with lace and embellishment. The styling, too, didn’t go unnoticed, especially the adorable shapes and striped tights that were the embodiment of modern Mod.

Julius Tarog

One of the collections that went the neutral route — and succeeded — was Tarog’s minimalist/sporty offerings that were refreshing to the eye. His mesh two-piece suits and dresses gave just the right twist to a basic silhouette, proving that frill and pomp are sometimes unnecessary to make an ensemble classy.

Martin Bautista

Crowd favorite Bautista somehow fell short in the “wow” factor. His usually brilliant draping skills using jersey and satin were noticeably absent, instead replaced with some top and pants combo with a leather skirt overlay that was a total 360 from his aesthetic, slightly confusing the crowd. He had a couple of gowns that showcased his signature silhouette, albeit in a thick red velvet that didn’t quite work as well.

Noel Crisostomo

Crisostomo might as well be the breakout kid in the show with his beautifully constructed and well thought-out collection of dressy pieces that can give the major houses a run for their money. From the fabric to the cut, to the plastic-like material that he used as accent, it all simply fell into place flawlessly. Impeccable taste and vision made his collection stand out, and deserving of a solo show.

Popoy Barba

At first glace, Barba’s military-inspired pieces were quite arresting. But once you get over the color overload, you will see what lies beneath: immaculate construction that is so well executed it could very well be a couture creation. His pieces, styled editorially, will pop out of the glossies and show their true potential. It may not be the most wearable, but for true fashionistas, it is the wildcard piece they would want to own.

Roel Rosal

One of the few designers who took “spring/summer” to heart was Rosal with his colorful showcase of brightly layered tunics that fit right in alongside that dream beach destination. Layers of the thinnest chiffon in simple cuts were brought to life by vibrant contrasting shades and a sprinkle of beadwork, making it just precious enough to be worn to dinner after a day out in the sun. 

Simon Vasquez

Vasquez’s pretty laser-cut creations made his portion a standout among the crowd. What looked quite simple at first glance were actually intricate and complex techniques of cutting fabric, creating those special details that make a dress unforgettable.

Tina Daniac

Staying true to her rock star signature was easy for Daniac as she sent sexy lace and sequined pieces in the most vibrant of shades down the runway. Every piece was cut close to the body, emphasizing curves only a truly confident woman can pull off. It was a fine line between tacky and kitsch that bordered on the obscure; nonetheless it was achieved with good construction and design direction.

Veejay Floresca

Floresca’s subdued palette belonged in the neutrals category but was nothing of the boring sort. His separates in two shades of gray were just the right mix of minimalist and texture, just begging to be worn and styled for maximum impact. His gowns, tasteful and sophisticated, belie his age and experience. Truly a name to watch out for in the coming years.