Raw tailoring and less-than-perfect finishes
Mannish tailoring, floral prints and sheer fabric were the standout trends in the 16-designer Visions and Trends show presented by Magnum for Philippine Fashion Week spring/summer 2013, trends which were evident as well in the other PFW shows (a testament, once again, to how much Pinoy designers pattern their collections after international runways). But what gives this show an edge are the designers themselves, most of them up-and-coming names who are in the midst of creating a signature while working around trends, both local and international. Watching a show with young designers is always a revelation. Most have less-than-perfect finishes and raw tailoring but they all make up with an evident eagerness to experiment with different fabric, unique materials and of-the-minute patterns.
Xernan Orticio, whose workmanship seemed to have become more meticulous since his last Fashion Week spread, sent out mostly highly-structured black-and-white pieces that defined the whole intent and purpose of the Visions and Trends show. This is not the first time Orticio works with angular patterns and weblike, geometric patterns — it seems to be a working signature, in fact — but this time Orticio gives a controlled softness to his geometry, as seen in an almost slouchy jacket with rounded shoulders and cinched waist, and in the flouncy hip details of a ‘50s-style full skirt.
Jot Losa gives a fresh spin to sheer fabric, constructing it beyond the usual long skirt overlay. Instead of presenting sheer as soft and willowy, Losa gives structure to the flimsy fabric, combining it with satiny silk and floral appliques to come up with beautifully-tailored shirts reminiscent of the barong, although more contemporary and meant for the female form.
I usually judge how good a collection is by how it combines uniqueness with wearability. Will I or any of my fashion-forward friends want to stand out in this designer’s clothes, and not get embarrassed or fidgety doing so? It’s an easy “yes” for Jian Lasala’s newest ready-to-wear collection, a visual feast of tapered, minimalist frocks in candy and sorbet colors, and for Bo Parcon’s black camouflage-prints floaty frocks (especially given a rockstar edge by his sleeveless tuxedo-style jackets). It would take a little bit of convincing — or maybe just a slimmer waistline and more toned limbs — to wear Emi Alexander Englis’ clingy, nude-colored body wraps and Paul Herrerra’s straightforward yet feminine frocks (better to leave out the unnecessary brooches). Mark Tamayo’s use of heavy lace on soft, thin fabric creeps up and eventually grows on you (pun intended).
Once in a while, however, you get a designer that makes you rethink the whole concept of wearability and what is good, just by coming out with a collection that’s outrageously unexpected.
Enrico Carado’s floral prints, volumized skirts and brave use of bold color may scare off even the most courageous fashion-phile but on the second, third and succeeding looks, you realize that Carado has just presented another way to put together floral with another floral print, and that his designs are not as off-putting as initially thought. Worn with minimal-to-none accessories and neutral footwear, Carado’s cropped tops, printed skirts and structured dresses can be paraded about by women who understand fun — and have a partiality for Japanese prints.
