The one to beat: Furne One returns with a grand solo show

MANILA, Philippines - Spiked dresses, masked faces and shoulders decked with papier mache lion heads.

If there’s anything Furne One knows how to do, it’s to put on a show.

The Cebu-born, Dubai-based Mega YDC alum was recently feted by the magazine at a ball celebrating Pinoy pride. Flush from a recent stint on BFF Heidi Klum’s show Germany’s Next Top Model, where contestants walked the ramp in One’s creations, the designer flew to Manila to present his 31-piece show stopper of a collection. YStyle sat down with the designer to talk about exotic spies, celebrity clients and what constitutes design plagiarism.

YSTYLE: Where were you recently?

FURNE ONE: Germany.

For Germany’s Next Top Model finale?

Yes. Germany and then the Philippines.

What was the first thing you did when you arrived?

I had dinner with the people from Mega.

Can you tell me a little bit about the collection you’re showing?

My inspiration was Mata Hari. I read her biography, and found it very interesting.

Of course. She was a femme fatale, a spy.

Yes. And a courtesan and exotic dancer. This collection is both a tribute to her and my favorite designer, Alexander McQueen, because they both had tragic endings.

That’s true. And you found something morbidly alluring in both their lives?

Yes. They’re both very interesting.

And what about the references in the show –– sculptures and these matador-esque shoulders?

Not exactly matadorian shoulders, I just made them spiky. Because Mata Hari was a spy, I wanted the clothes to look hardcore. And at the same time, she was a mother, so I still wanted to make it feminine — sexy, but not too vulgar.

The silhouettes were very strong.

Strong, and sexy.

Similar to what you like to do. Very sexy and form-fitting?

Yes.

You worked with a lot of celebs recently. I saw someone in one of your pastel gowns.

That was Natasha Bedingfield at the BillBoard Music Awards.

And Neon Hitch, right?

Yes, she’s one of the up-and-coming artists at the moment.

Yes, she’s getting all the buzz because she collaborated with Gym Class Heroes.

Wow, you know her after all! (laughs)

How were you able to hook up all these celeb red carpet appearances?

It all started with Germany’s Next Top Model. Then Katy Perry, and then Jennifer Lopez. It’s similar to how we do it in Manila –– everybody knows everybody. I also have an office and a small showroom in LA.

Tell us a little bit about the celebrities you worked with.

Katy Perry is so nice.

I’m guessing you guys are pretty close since you’ve worked together so much.

Yes. I worked with her for the California Dreams World Tour, the MTV awards, the American Music Awards, a new music video, what else.

You also did Neon Hitch’s outfit for her music video?

Yes. And her outfit on The Voice and the NewNowNext Awards.

You also recently showed at – was it – Melbourne Fashion Week?

Not Melbourne, Perth.

What was that show about?

They invited me to do a show there. It was very feminine. This show was about gold, bronze and silver, while that one was more pastels and florals.

How did working in Dubai shape you so far as a designer?

It didn’t shape me, it enhanced me. When I went there I had a vision, an idea. But Dubai enhanced me because I evolved. Filipino designers — let’s face it — have limited resources when it comes to fabric and materials. But Filipinos are already very artistic and very creative despite their limited options, so what more if you bring them to Dubai where you have everything?

Who were the designers you looked up to growing up?

No comment. (laughs) I respect all designers. Everyone has a different vision, a different aesthetic.

How did you first discover fashion as a young kid in Cebu?

My mother and grandmother were very fashionable. They influenced me growing up.

You also worked with David LaChapelle.

He is so nice and accommodating. I never felt awkward with him. His style is very fantastical, and I can relate to that because I’m fantastical also. I worked with him four times in total –– for Katy Perry’s campaign for GHD, Special T, Havaianas and Amber Rose.

What are your plans now? You did Perth, you’re back here feted by Mega. What would you like to do next? Who do you want to collaborate with?

Of course, Madonna! The queen.

You’ve seen her concert, I assume?

Yes. Last June in Abu Dhabi. I watched both nights actually.

Worth it?

Fab-u-lous. She is still the queen. Production, visuals, everything was just fabulous. I felt so bad for her actually, because it was so humid. And we all know she’s getting on a bit (laughs), but she still performed so well.

Let’s talk about the industry. Do you keep in touch with the Dubai designers you collaborated with for the Bench underwear show years ago?

Yeah. (laughs) We’re just a small group.

Yet you guys are doing so well there, I heard. Who do you cater to in Dubai?

The local emirate. The royalty.

What’s the current look?

It depends. Some of the new generation Arabs like it very simple, but some want it really big and full.

Because isn’t that what Dubai is known for –– very glitzy, full-on glamour?

Yes, but it’s changing. Now it really depends on the client.

Have you heard of this new blog making the rounds that compares local designers’ work with their original “inspirations”?

I haven’t heard of it. Do they copy the pieces exactly?

Some are quite similar.

“Copied“ entails that all the details are the same, while “inspired“ just has the same feel. That’s different.

What’s your take on it?

Maybe they were just influenced. But that’s it. It’s wrong to copy, but there’s nothing wrong about being inspired.

What inspires you now?

Right now, it’s Mata Hari’s and Alexander McQueen’s stories. Their tragic endings. How Mata Hari was executed and how McQueen committed suicide. I made my show very eerie.

You picked the music too?

Yes. I picked pieces with crow sounds, church bells… Actually we were supposed to include a rendition of “Act of Contrition,“ but we were concerned that it might have been too offensive. But that was the whole drama of the collection.

Tell me about your design process. Do you begin with sketching, visuals?

I’m very visual. But it depends. Like now, it’s Mata Hari’s book. I read it while I was traveling. Then I connected it to McQueen. Then I decided on the music, then the look.

What kind of places do you visit for inspiration?

It depends. Sometimes you don’t even have to travel. You just need to read a book. In some cases, you really don’t get inspiration no matter how much you travel. You just feel lazy.

What do you love most about coming home?

Food. All the food. Isn’t it obvious? (laughs) And family, of course.

What’s it like to come home to a welcome like this — feted everywhere you go?

I don’t think about (all the attention). I just work and work, because I love what I do. I work today, then finish, then work again tomorrow. I don’t compete with anyone. I compete with myself, making it a point to make a collection that’s better than the last one. Like upgrading myself, because every day is a learning process. Sometimes, my clients come in and suggest this and that, and at first I don’t like the idea, but once I incorporate my style I think, “Oh, that was actually a good idea.” And I end up applying it for future projects. You learn something new every day.